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Firefighters and the Risk of Asbestos Exposure – Mark Hall, Guest Blogger

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Firefighters and the Risk of Asbestos Exposure

Firefighters, policemen, emergency medical service workers and all other public servants put their lives at risk each day to protect and serve their local residents. For firefighters, certain risks and hazards exist that are often unknown, unseen and unexpected. One such risk is asbestos exposure.

Asbestos is a naturally occurring yet hazardous mineral that is found in thousands of industrial materials and products used in homes, buildings and consumer items. When asbestos-containing materials are disturbed, asbestos fibers become airborne and are easily inhaled because they are microscopic.

Exposure to this material has been linked to respiratory diseases like mesothelioma and lung cancer, often taking years to develop. Those who work around asbestos for many years are most at risk of developing a related disease. As a result of the duties associated with their work, firefighters are put at a higher risk of interacting with asbestos. Surprisingly, an exposure risk has even included their protective gear.

How and Where Exposure Occurs

The most intense moments of a firefighter's job involves eliminating fires and rescuing those in danger. When fires occur within homes, buildings and other structures, asbestos-containing materials can get damaged, increasing the likelihood that the fibers will be released.

The following is a list of household products could contain asbestos, endangering firefighters in the event of a fire:

  • Roofing materials
  • Cement
  • Vinyl flooring
  • Wall lining/gaskets
  • Piping material
  • Wiring insulation
  • Refrigerator/freezer
  • Recessed lighting
  • Attic insulation

The same threats from homes are applied to commercial buildings. One of the more well-known instances of asbestos exposure involving firefighters is the rescue and recovery efforts at the World Trade Center on September 11, 2001. Dust from the destroyed buildings contained asbestos and other hazardous substances. Respiratory issues among public servants continue to linger as a result, including cases of mesothelioma.

Unfortunately for firefighters, the risk of asbestos exposure isn’t just limited to the location of the fire. In some cases, the risk follows them around. Fire equipment contained asbestos in earlier decades because of the material's heat-resistant characteristics. Equipment items included gloves, helmets and coats, all of which are considered staples of the firefighter uniform. Some of these items are still produced with asbestos, so be sure to ask your employer for information on the contents of your protective gear and how to keep the gear in good condition.

Firefighters, in addition to all first-responders, are encouraged to always wear protective gear during any hazardous environment. This should begin with ensuring that safety equipment is free of asbestos. Researching the materials and the manufacturer can help verify the status of the equipment.

Finally, it is highly recommended that all public servants conduct regular health checkups and screening for respiratory disease. Receiving X-Rays and communicating your occupational dangers can help your doctor detect the development of life-changing diseases such as lung cancer and mesothelioma. 

Bio: Mark Hall is a writer for the Mesothelioma Center. Between his interests in environmental health and his writing experience, Mark is committed to communicating relevant news and information regarding the dangers of asbestos exposure and breakthroughs in mesothelioma treatments.

Making a Difference in Quebec!

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In April of 2011, Brotherhood Instructors conducted 3 days of "Beyond the Academy: Forcible Entry Operations" training at the IPIQ training facility in Laval Quebec.  The IPIQ is the province wide training facility for all career firefighters in Quebec and roughly translates to: "Institute for the Protection Against the Fires of Quebec".  After class last year we toured several City of Montreal firehouses and discovered that the forcible entry tools provided by the department were somewhat lacking – 3 piece pinned halligans and pick head axes.  After the three days of training we left feeling a sense of pride and accomplishment that we were able to share our forcible entry knowledge and experiences with firefighters that were so eager to learn and put these techniques to use. 

We began to realize that we had made an impact when we received this photo from Captain Mart Corriveau of the Montreal Fire Department! 

 

 

 

 

 

Shortly after receiving the above photo we came across this photo from a fire in Montreal.  1 piece halligan, flat head axe, and the gap and cut technique that we review in our course!  The member on the right in the blue helmet had attended the class.  Thanks to www.coderouge.com for the use of the picture.

We were in invited back this year to conduct our "Beyond the Academy: Advanced Forcible Entry Ops" course for the academy staff as well as an open enrollment forcible entry weekend course.  We were pleased to hear that since our course last year, the City of Montreal has equipped each of its companies with a 1 piece drop forged halligan and flat head axe.  The instructors at the IPIQ facility have also begun integrating hands-on forcible entry training into their recruit school.  The academy purchased two door props from H & R Machine and now teaches students to force inward and outward opening doors.  Forcible entry scenarios are then integrated in everything from EMS training to RIT scenarios. 

We would like to thank the IPIQ for having us out to teach their academy staff  We are extremely proud that our teachings will now be passed along to every firefighter in the province of Quebec.  We hope that these techniques serve you well on the fireground and improve your abilities to serve your communities. 

Beyond the Academy: Video Training Series – Forcing Slide Bolts & Drop Bars

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Here is the latest addition to our Beyond the Academy: Video Training Series.  This clip includes some tips and tricks for forcing slide bolts and drop bars on outward opening doors.  Feel free to add your comments, questions, or suggestions!  As always – no framing square needed!

 

Another Rex Tool Modification – By: Andrew Brassard

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Ever since my first blog on modifying a standard rex tool to be able to carry it in your pocket I have received lots of emails and had lots of questions about which modification (the pipe or the adz bracket). The reason why there is a debate about which one is better or more applicable is because I tend to like the adz bracket modification better because it allows you to rock the tool side to side and "walk" tough cylinders out off the door, with the pipe modification you loose the ability for the side to side movement.

The main reason that some guys like the pipe modification better is because in their company they utilise the wide adz halligan. So my latest project was to come up with a way to use either the pike or the adz to pull the cylinders. I have also seen on different blogs and websites  several other modifications by other people to give the ability to use both, this was usually accomplished by welding a pipe on the top of the adz bracket. This modification made the tool extremely heavy and awkward. Remember that this is a tool that you want to carry in your pocket most of the time, it should not look like something that a gas station should have the rest room keys attached to!

The first thing I did was cut the handle off a standard Rex Tool with a band saw. The next thing was I cut the length of the head down by 1'' to decrease the weight and size of lock puller, the head was now ready for the new staple. The new staple had to be made to accommodate the pike and the adz, the answer was far simpler than you might think. With the help of Jamie Hiller at H and R Machine I used a shop press to bow the centre of a piece of 1/4'' plate, the ends were then bent to fit the width of the lock puller. A MIG welder was then used to attach the bracket to the lock puller.

This modification gives you the best of both worlds, it allows you to be able to perform through the lock using either the pike or the adz. This new modification gives you a tremendous and light weight lock pulling option that you can keep in your pocket.

Slide Bolt Forcible Entry: Part 2

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Click on the image to view or download the PDV version.

Slide Bolts – Exterior PDF

Slide Bolt Forcible Entry

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Check out this info sheet for some forcible entry tips when dealing with slide bolts.  Feel free to print it out and post it in the firehouse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slide Bolts – Interior

Come Along – By: Mike Tesarski

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During my initial training as a firefighter in Michigan I was shown the benefits of using a come along.  This training included a “steering column pull” for auto extrication that would pull the steering column and the dash away from the patient freeing them from their entrapments.  I was even shown an example where we literally folded a car in half to show how powerful the come along was. 

A few years later I was hired by a large city in Canada that taught us this same technique, the only problem was that steering columns were now adjustable and this created a hazard as the rack and pinion system is broken up into two, three, or even four parts.  When applying force on these parts the rack and pinion system is the weak area that could snap off and injure the patient or rescuers.  As soon as it was realized that the rack and pinion system was on most cars the come along tool took a back seat in the auto extrication toolbox.

The come-along is a hand operated ratchet lever winch. The lever is used to pull the cable into the wench and the ratchet is the brake that keeps the wire from unwinding (similar to those seen on boat winches).  It is light and compact that can be deployed in many situations.  The only problem with this tool is the ignorance that surrounds it.

I myself used to say to my coworkers, that if you wanted to look like you had no idea what you were doing then take out the Come Along tool and that would prove it.  Funny, the more education and training I get with such tools, the more apt I am to use hand tools over the gas powered hydraulic option.   This is a great example of why I always say, “you don’t know what you don’t know”. 

This brings up the point of training on the equipment that is carried on our trucks.  I’m guilty of thinking that some of our tools that we carry are useless, again I didn’t know what I didn’t know. 

Recently myself and a couple other instructors from Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. attended a course put on by Michigan State University about industrial machinery entrapments.  We used the come along in a few scenarios and it worked great.  The come along was used to lift devices, shore equipment, and binding heavy objects in place.  Keep in mind when using this that it is either a whole “click” on the ratchet or none.  It does not have the capabilities of moving smaller distances.

With the most standard come along assemblies it has the pulling power of 3000 lbs if used with the pulley, or it has 1500 lbs of pulling force without using the pulley.  There are of course, larger and smaller models. 

Pull the come along off your truck with your crew and go over the pros and cons of using this device. If you realize the potential of this piece of equipment it may go from your “plan D” to part of your “plan A” during your initial actions.

Tool Modifications 2.0 – The 8 Pound Force Axe – By: Shane Klug

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February 2011, I transferred to a ladder company, my first time being assigned to a truck.  Detroit ladder trucks typically have 6-pound pick head axes and 8-pound sledge hammers on them.  I tried both of them on the roof, and my tool of choice became the 6-pound pick head axe. I managed to get my hands on an 8-pound pick head axe and gave that a try. While the extra weight was great for smashing through roofs, the balance was VERY nose heavy, which made it harder to control and also very uncomfortable to carry.  Over the summer I was able to attend the Brotherhood Instructors Forcible Entry Ops class held in Independence Twp Michigan, where I used an 8-pound flathead axe, specifically the fire hooks unlimited 8-pound force axe.  I really liked the way the axe was balanced.  It was easy to control when swinging (in the forcible entry class) and seemed easy to carry.  Sometime after the class I purchased my own to use at work.  I decided to make some modifications, but with a twist, compared to what I had seen in the Brotherhood Instructor class.  First, I wanted to try and put the “notch” that allows the halligan forks to marry with the axe in a location that put both tool handles together, so I could get my hand around both tools. In Detroit, most front door forcible entry is performed by engine companies, so for me, I won’t be carrying a halligan much. So the more important modification I wanted was some kind of overstrike protection for my axe, as it would be used mainly for venting the peak roof of single family dwellings.  I had seen small sections of angle iron welded on the bottom of the axe head on the axes used in Gary Fire Dept (Gary, IN).  But they were welded with some space between the angle irons and the handle itself. In my opinion, this location for the over strike protection made it very difficult to carry the axe, especially while climbing up ladders etc.  So I had a friend TIG weld on some sections of angle iron below the head of the axe, but positioned them right against the handle of the axe, following the axe handle contour.  For those of you who have used an axe on a roof to smash a vent hole, you know that often times the axe head will smash through the roof deck and stop on the handle itself, over time break the axe handle right below the axe head itself.  Hopefully this modification will add some life to the tool for me.

 

I know this axe is called an 8-pound force axe, but I think the name sells this tool short.  As I mentioned above, I don’t do the majority of forcible entry, as the engine companies often do the front door and Detroit truck companies only carry one halligan, which is mainly carried by the boss of the truck.  My main objective as a deckie on the back end is to make the roof and ventilate. The vast majority of the time, I’m using this axe to open single family dwelling roofs.  When used in tandem with a saw (chain or rotary), I can use the flat side of the axe to “turn” the boards over on the rafters after they have been cut.  Of if there is no saw available (or the roof doesn’t lend itself to using a saw), I can use the blade side of the axe to start a hole (especially on roof decks that have multiple layers of shingles), then can flip over to continue smashing the roof boards.

       All in all, this axe is fantastic for forcible entry and makes a great tool for vertical ventilation. With the addition of the over strike protection, hopefully the tool will have a long service life opening roofs!

Through the Lock – Pivoting Deadbolt & Hookbolt

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Through the lock forcible entry is a quick and easy method of gaining entry into doors locked with pivoting deadbolts and pivoting hookbolts.  This skill is easier than many believe.  Click on this through the lock info sheet to download a PDF version.  Feel free to use it, print it, and share it with your crews. 

 

Duckbill Lock Breaker – By: Andrew Brassard

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Nowadays firefighters tend to become over reliant on saws during forcible entry operations and often forget some of the most basic of fireground tools. The Duckbill Lock Breaker is one such a tool that has become a forgotten tool that tends to sit in a compartment on the truck. But what about the times when, the saw does not start? Or you have to change the blade? Or you have to remove locks inside of a building where the saw will be choked out by the smoke? The duckbill is a tremendous secondary tool for these situations.

The Duckbill Lock Breaker works by driving the lock shackle off the body of the lock. The lock breaker will remove an American 700 Series Lock with no problem, in fact there are very few locks that can not be defeated by the lock breaker. One lock the can withstand the forces that can be applied with the lock breaker is the disc type lock. If a disc type lock is present a different forcible entry method should be utilized.

 

The Duckbill Lock Breaker is a single functioning tool, meaning it's only function is to force entry into padlocks.

The duckbill is made of soft metal, usually brass. The reason for making it out of soft metal is so that as it is driven down in between the padlock body and the shackle the lock will "bite" into the soft metal of the wedge and hold it's position until it is struck again. Every time the lock breaker is struck it is driven down a little further into the lock, this places more and more pressure on the lock until it finally fails. If the wedge was made out of a hardened metal it would simply bounce out every time it was struck.  

To use the Duckbill Lock Breaker, simply place the wedge into the lock. This is where mistakes get made! The only way the duckbill will work is with the top edge of the wedge on the shackle and the bottom edge of the duckbill on the body of the lock, do not put the duckbill into the lock with the top and bottom rails on both side of  the shackle! Once the lock breaker is in place use the 8 lbs forcible entry axe or a 12 lbs Maul to drive the duckbill into the lock, continue driving it in until the lock fails. It is that simple!

So dust off the duckbill lock breaker, dig it out from the compartment, or buy one to include to your forcible entry arsenal. It is a great tool that can prove to be extremely valuable on the fireground.

 

 

 

 

Coordinated Ventilation

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Take a look at these two videos for a great example of coordinated ventilation.  The outside vent (OV) firefighter on the fire escape waits until the line is putting water on the fire to take the windows.  Doing so helps the engine make the advance into the fire area a little easier.  Waiting until the line is ready will ensure that you do not prematurely feed the fire additional oxygen and possibly trap firefighters searching ahead of the line. 

 

 

Pressure Reducing Valves – By: Chris Collier

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Lack of water on the fire is a fire ground problem that seldom stands alone.  When water is not being applied to the fire at the proper rate we can all agree that things get worse on the fire ground.  When we look at fires where maydays or firefighter fatalities occurred we can often find reference to water loss or water problems.  One such fire is the one Meridian Plaza fire which occurred in Philadelphia PA on February 23, 1991.  This fire took the lives of three Philadelphia Firefighters.  One (of several) issues that plagued firefighters at this fire was improperly set pressure reducing valves.  These valves were set to allow 60 psi discharge pressure which was inadequate to operate the fire department's 1 3/4" hoselines and combination nozzles. 

Pressure reducing valves are found on many standpipe systems and there are dozens of types of these valves.  This blog post will show only a few so be sure to familiarize yourself with the ones found in your response area.  Pressure reducing valves are designed to regulate the pressure at a given standpipe outlet.  Pressures can be very high when dealing with fire pumps or gravity tanks.  These valves are intended to prevent over pressurization of components after the valve.  By reducing pressure flow is also reduced. 

The best and easiest way to deal with a pressure reducing valve is to remove it completely.  One style of pressure reducing valve threads onto the standpipe outlet.  When this type of valve is found, remove it with a spanner or pipe wrench and proceed as normal.  If the valve can not be removed you may have to go to the floor two floors below the fire and hook up there.  If you are unable to remove any of the pressure reducing valves, ensure the valve is in the full open position and proceed with caution. 

Some standpipe outlet valves have a pressure reducing device built into them.  Some of them can be adjusted with a screwdriver or allen wrench and others require disassembly of the valve and special tools.  These are the pressure reducing valves that firefighters must be intimately acquainted with before the fire to ensure a successful operation. 

Once we remove the pressure reducing valve we can control the pressure ourselves using the outlet valve and our inline pressure gauge.

Electric Roll Up Gates – By: Andrew Brassard

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Not all forcible entry has to be forcible, in some cases a little knowledge and some finesse will get the job done quicker than some more traditional methods.

One such instance is Electric Roll Up Doors and Gates.  With a little bit of knowledge and a screwdriver entry into these gates can be very fast with very little force. Electric Roll up Gates are most commonly found in my area on loading docks, garbage rooms, and on the occasional roll up gate. These electric door openers are usually found mounted around 4' off the ground directly beside the door that it opens. There is a key way on the control panel.  This key way controls the door going up and down. The key way is often a standard mortise lock cylinder, on the back side of the cylinder. A large pivoting arm is bolted to the key way. When the key is inserted and turned the pivoting arm will twist and hit a limiter switch to either roll the door up or down.

 

 

 

Forcing entry
Forcing entry into the door usually does not require very much force at all, the only tool that you need is a screwdriver in most cases. The first thing you want to do is undo the screws in the four corners of the face plate. I have been told by friends that they have encountered security screws in these from time to time, I have never encountered these security screws. Most of the time standard Philips, Robertson, or Slot headed screws hold the face plate on. Once the screws have been removed the face plate will need to be pried off with a halligan or Rex Tool. The reason for this is that the pivoting arm on the back side of the cylinder hits small tabs on the  edges of the electrical box. The tabs are why it says on the front of the lock face that you must have the key in order to open the lock, when the key is inserted into the key way and it is turned the pivoting arm turns and is able to fit past the tabs on the electrical box. To pry the face plate off is not difficult, these tabs on the electrical box are light gauge galvanized metal that will bend quite easily with a little pressure with a prying tool.

Operating the gate
Once the face plate has been removed and pried out you can operate the gate. Directly behind the pivoting arm is a limiting switch with a simple button to operate the gate up and down, there is one button on each side of the lock cylinder. You can simply use your finger (or a pencil if it makes you feel more comfortable) to push the button and activate the door. If you look at the face plate you may be able to tell what side the limiter switch is for "Up" and what one is for "Down" by the words on both sides of the lock cylinder. If no words indicating what side is "Up" are present simply try pushing one side, if it does not work it means that it is the other side. Keep in mind that you are dealing with live electrical wires so extreme caution must be taken not to touch any wires, if you use the proper techniques and give any electrical component the respect it deserves than that should not be a problem.

Also remember to take a thorough look at the gate and properly size it up. If there are additional locks on the door such as traditional pin, hasp, and padlock assemblies, then these locks must be removed before this entry method can be performed.

In some instances these gates are also locked from the inside or the electrical switch no longer works, in these instances the gate or door will have to be cut with a power saw.

Also be sure to check with your departmental SOP's and SOG's before performing this entry method, some departments have policies against members touching an electrical equipment such as this.

This is an extremely quick and effective method for forcing entry and it causes very little damage. The best way to prepare for these types of forcible entry situations is to pay a visit to the company in your city or town that install these electric gate openers, ask them to run you through the most common types that they install in your area.

Till next time, stay safe!

Modular Cribbing – By: Mike Tesarski

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One thing I've always liked about the Fire Service is the ability to improvise, adapt, and overcome problems. If you give a firefighter a problem you can be assured they will come up with an answer. I have always found it interesting to visit firehouses across North America and see different tools and equipment that have been modified or made “in-house” to solve a specific problem that the department or crew faced.

One such homegrown invention that firefighters have come up with is known as modular cribbing.  This invention came from the Mississauga Extrication Team in 1997, when the need for speedy vehicle stabilization was needed with limited manpower.

After trying a few versions of this cribbing the final product was perfected.  Modular cribbing is 6 4×4 wood cribs that are divided into two separate modules and screwed together firmly on two rubber mats (conveyor belt). Using a more solid piece of rubber allows the crib to be slid into space and rotated with ease. Each 4×4 is spaced 4 inches apart. This allows two tiers of 3 4×4 box cribbing to be stacked. This also allows for the two sheets of cribbing to be stored as one solid piece. Both pieces are held together with a metal bar slid through the middle where holes are drilled.  A handle made of a piece of seatbelt nailed to the end makes this easy to take off a truck shelf and carried to the scene.

To deploy the modular cribbing is a simple process. The cribbing point is selected and then the metal pin can be pulled, this separates the 2 individual modules allowing them to be stacked in opposite directions in place underneath the vehicle or what ever is going to be lifted. 

Another tremendous advantage of the modular cribbing is that because the cribs are tied together with the rubber matting it helps prevent the cribbing stack from slipping or inadvertently moving during extrication or lifting operations. The belting also provides a fantastic and stable platform for air bag operations

One point of contact on a 4×4 crib will hold approximately 6,000 pounds of force. With nine points of contact this cribbing will support up to 54,000 pounds which is ideal for stabilization of large vehicles or heavy machinery. Airbags can be used on top of the modular cribbing with ease and stability.

Having used this type of crib in competition and in "real life" scene I can tell you that it is extremely useful and quick.

More About Nozzles – By: Mike Kirby

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This is a debate that plagues the fire service. Most of the personal "experience" or "knowledge" from this debate stems from lack of knowledge or understanding of the simple principle that GPM (properly applied) puts out fires. Some believe that pressure is what we should be concentrating on. Firefighters start out in their "firefighter" schools, where ever that may be, and learn about the nozzle they have there and then go to work somewhere and only learn about the nozzle they use there or the one that that person tells them is the end-all-be-all of the fire service. Few firefighters are aware of what is available to them, what each one actually flows under live conditions, heat absorption characteristics, etc. If all you have ever used is a combination nozzle, you have probably never flowed a smooth bore hooked to a GPM gauge to see the flow and experience the difference in pull back pressure.
 
The problems with all new tools / nozzles / methods of going to work is that it is change and fire fighters have to be more resistant to change than any other culture or group of people on this planet.

We need to make sure we educate all of our fire fighters on what they are carrying and how much water it puts out at varying pressures and with various lengths of hose. I'm not a personal fan of the adjustable or combination nozzle whether its a fixed gallonage or automatic. This nozzle has been used in the 5 fire departments I have worked for. Its generally not the tool, but how you use it I always say. Fires still go out in these 5 places. Some maybe not as effectively as others due primarily to GPM delivered. I personally prefer the smooth bore nozzle. It is simple, won't clog and is inexpensive. Next I prefer the vindicator. Both the smooth bore and vindicator can put out a very high GPM flow from an 1-3/4" fire line. One costs about $150 and the other around $800. The CFD recently has started phasing in an Elkhart Chief 250 gpm @ 50 psi to replace the outdated Task Force Tips. The TFT's were automatic type nozzles with a complicated pressure control mechanism. These nozzles just don't work right anymore due to the age, wear and lack of maintenance on the internal pressure control mechanism. The Chief nozzle selected flows comparable to the Vindicator, but gives the "hard head" fire fighter the option to have a fog or straight stream. The reasons the "hard heads" don't like the vindicator ring true for a smooth bore as well. "I need the "fog" stream to ventilate". We made sure we found a combination nozzle that allowed them to have fog for ventilation and other scenarios that also flowed a lot of GPM from a 1-3/4" fire line.
 
I'm an advocate of I don't care what you or your department uses, just know its limitations, how much water it can put out with it in GPM and how it reacts to line kinks, long lays, reduced pressure situations, etc. You need to do this with a flow meter. If you cant get a flow meter, ask a sales representative to bring a nozzle out for you to demo and flow and while flowing that nozzle, flow your current nozzle alongside of it.
GPM properly and rapidly applied puts out fires. There is no greater live saving action on the fire ground than to put out the fire and stop all the bad things going on inside the building. (sorry truckers….)
 
Mike Kirby- Cinncinati Fire Department Engine Co. 12

The In-Line Pressure Gauge – By: Chris Collier

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The in-line pressure gauge is an essential and often overlooked piece of equipment when operating off of a standpipe.  From the earliest days of our pump operator training we are taught to start at the nozzle and work back to the pump to calculate the discharge pressure for a given line.  Lets look at a simple example:

  • Smooth bore nozzle with a 1 1/8" tip = 50 pounds per square inch (psi) nozzle pressure
  • 200' of 2 1/2" hose @ 5 psi friction loss per length = 20 psi to compensate for friction loss
  • Line operating on the 2nd floor = 5 psi for grade change
  • Discharge pressure = 75 psi

This is very easy to calculate quickly in your head because all of the factors in the equation are known.  How do you know how many psi to add for the piping between the fire department connection (FDC) and the standpipe outlet on the 4th floor?  The short answer to this question: you don't know.  It is impossible to know the piping configuration of every standpipe and you are crazy to think that if you knew it you could calculate it quickly at the time of a fire. 

The quickest, easiest, and most accurate way to provide the proper pressure at the standpipe outlet is through the use of an in-line pressure gauge.  This appliance, when connected directly to the standpipe outlet, allows us to calculate discharge pressure as if the pump panel of the engine was in the stairwell.  The example above with the smooth bore nozzle and 200' of 2 1/2" hose can be calculated exactly the same way, ensuring 75 psi at the standpipe outlet to provide 50 psi at the nozzle. 

The in-line pressure gauge becomes even more important when we have multiple lines operating off of the same standpipe.  If the fire is on the 4th floor, the first line should be connected on the 3rd. floor.  The second line which will either back up the first line or proceed to the floor above (5th floor) will be connected to the standpipe outlet on the 2nd floor.  If the first line was 200' the second will have to be at least 300'.  The second line will also be going up three floors – from the 2nd to the 5th so we will have to add 5 psi per floor to compensate for head pressure.  Smooth bore nozzle (50 psi) + 300' of 2 1/2" line (30 psi) + 3 floors elevation (15 psi) = 95 psi.  The only way to be sure that each line is pumped at the proper pressure is to place the in-line pressure gauge on the standpipe outlet. 

There are a few steps we need to take before attaching the in-line pressure gauge to the standpipe outlet.  First open the standpipe outlet and let it run for a few seconds… yes, the floor is going to get wet and so are the stairs, its okay.  This serves two purposes: first, it tells us that we have a functional standpipe that has water and second, it will hopefully flush any obstructions from the outlet.  Once the outlet is flushed, turn it off and look inside.  If there are any obstructions still in there remove them with the channel locks that you carry in your standpipe kit.  Now, connect your in-line pressure gauge to the outlet and your hose to the gauge. 

Once all of the sections of hose are connected and the line is flaked out, open the standpipe outlet valve ALL THE WAY!  At this point you will get a static pressure reading since there is no water moving through the line.  Once the line is opened adjust the standpipe outlet valve until you get the desired residual pressure on the in-line pressure gauge.  It is extremely important to set the pressure while the line is flowing water.  If necessary, the nozzle team can open the nozzle in the stairwell or the public hallway to set the pressure before moving into the fire area. 

Thanks for reading and be safe!  As always, feel free to add your questions, comments, or suggestions.

 

Changing Saw Blades – Diamonds are a Firemen’s best friend too – By Grant Light

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Over the past few years there have been some big changes in the type of circular saw blades used by fire departments across the country.  In the past almost all of the metal and concrete cutting was accomplished with fiber wheels made of a sacrificial material such as aluminum oxide or silicon carbide.  The biggest problem with these blades was that they got smaller as you cut, causing you to change blades during a rescue and at times not allowing you the depth of cut needed to get the job done.  The potential for blades to fly apart during operations was also a big safety issue.  You had one blade for metal, one for concrete and at times one for stone.  Just that fact alone required a quick decision about the work to be done and in some instances quick blade changes were required before cutting could begin.

Just like everything else in the fire service, saw blades have changed dramatically as new technologies have moved from the construction industry to the rescue services.  Diamonds are where that technology has taken us.  Many different types of diamond blades are available but we will look at two, Segmented and Vacuum Braised.  Segmented blades have a diamond impregnated segment attached to a steel wheel.  They were originally designed for cutting concrete with imbedded rebar.  They moved to the fire service through US&R teams and are used by many companies to cut metal during forcible entry operations.

The newest additions to diamond technology are the Vacuum Braised blades.  They have very high quality diamonds attached directly to the steel wheel.  This removes any chance of a diamond segment coming off the wheel and becoming a projectile during operations.  These blades can cut an extremely wide range of products such as Hardened locks & shackles, hockey puck locks, security gates, re-bar, chain-link fence, stucco, concrete, block, brick, stone, asphalt, wood, drywall, car doors, ductile iron, cast iron, angle iron, black iron, schedule 40 &80 steel pipe, plastic pipe, 2x4s and plywood.  These blades will do all this without reducing the depth of cut and outlasting fiber wheels 100:1 or more.  During training at a scrap yard we cut through a fiberglass roof on a conversion van, which was backed up by 4 layers of OSB plywood and then turned and cut the class 3-trailer hitch off the rear of the vehicle.   We were using a Desert Diamond vacuum braised blade and it didn’t skip a beat.  The ability to grab a circular saw and cut just about anything you encounter is a welcome change from the blades we used just a few years ago.  These new blades have a higher upfront cost but their ability to cut a wide range of materials, remain a constant diameter and outlast any forcible entry cutting scenario you might encounter make them a smart choice as you move forward into the future of circular saw blades.

Hit, Hit, Hit Part 2 – By: Andrew Brassard

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In the last article we talked about ensuring that the striking firefighter has their top hand at least 6" down from the head of the axe.  This is to ensure that any missed strikes don't crush the striking firefighters fingers.

Now we are going to talk about where to place your bottom hand and how to position your body for optimal striking during conventional forcible entry operations.

Just like the placement of your top hand, your bottom hand placement can be critical to a smooth forcible entry operation. For some reason, lots of firefighters want to choke their bottom hand up to around the middle of the axe.  This grip can lead to problems during forcible entry operations. What tends to happen when using this type of grip is that as the striking firefighter swings the axe, the butt end of the handle digs into the firefighter holding the halligans leg. The momentum of the axe being swung usually doesn't stop once the butt end of the axe handle bumps the firefighters leg.  The momentum tends to carry the axe through the swing but drastically off target. This obviously can lead to missed hits and the potential of injuring a member.  Instead, place your bottom hand down at the bottom of the axe just above the fawns foot. This will allow you to be more aware of where the butt end of the axe handle is.

 

Don't be a Fool…. Cross your Tools
Another very common striking  mistake is not crossing your tools. The optimal striking position for the axe is to have it crossing the adz of the halligan and not in line with it. The reason for crossing the tools is that it increases your striking surface to allow for small inaccuracies. With the axe in line with the adz it leaves very little margin for error for the striking firefighter, if he is off the mark by only 1" this could cause a glancing hit on the adz and cause the halligan firefighter to be struck. If the axe and the adz of halligan are crossed it will increase your margin of error by giving you 2" up and down and 3" left to right leeway in your swing.

Keep your Eye on the Ball
When I was a young kid my father was teaching me how to catch a baseball and the first thing he said was "keep your eye on the ball", this principle applies the same to forcing a door. You should always try to make yourself eye level with the adz, this will make your swing much more accurate. Depending on the location of the lock being forced, you may have to take a knee, crouch, or you may be standing straight up, but for the majority of locks that are located in the middle of the door the striking firefighter should take position on their knees.

These small tips will help you be more proficient during you forcible entry operations.

Until next time, stay safe.

Hit, Hit, Hit – By: Andrew Brassard

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I have been teaching forcible entry for almost 10 years, in that time I have seen a few injuries. It sometimes comes with the territory: bumps, bruises, and the odd black finger nail have happened when both members of the forcible entry team are not on the same page. One of the simplest mistakes that I have seen firefighters make that leads to injuries is holding the axe too high on the shaft. A lot of firefighters are thought to hold the shaft of the axe directly below the head. In my opinion this is an incorrect grip.

The reason that this grip is not favorable is because if the striking firefighter is off the mark with the swing by only a few inches the can crush their fingers between the shaft of the axe and the halligan adz. I have seen this on several occasions and a couple of times it has led to a black finger nail or a broken digit. This is a serious problem not only because of a member getting injured but on the fire ground the forcible entry operation is halted which could cause significant delays in entry, water on the fire, ventilation, or commencement of search and rescue operations.

To avoid this, ensure that your members keep their top hand at least 6" below the head of the axe. Lots of companies, to ensure that there members do not forget this, place there company identification colors or number at least 6" down from the axe head, this will be a subtle reminder to keep your hand down and it will also build company pride and ensure no other company walks away with your tools.

Some Facts About Standpipes – By: Chris Collier

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Did you know standpipe systems are designed to deliver a prescribed amount of water at a prescribed pressure to the top most outlet?  Unless you are a fire inspector or you are really into engine company operations you may not have put much thought into the design of a standpipe system.  At first glance a standpipe system may appear to just be a pipe with some valves and fire hose threads that we can supply water to with a fire engine.  If you are having trouble sleeping one night, try reading NFPA 14, it has all of the information on design and installation of standpipe systems.  For firefighting purposes we need to be concerned with pressure (PSI), gallons per minute (GPM), and what hose/nozzle combination we are using.

There is great debate in the fire service over the proper hose/nozzle combination to use when operating from a standpipe system.  That debate is driven by arguments over GPM, PSI, obstructions, etc.  The easiest part of that debate to put to rest is the GPM argument.  In my research and experience doing fire inspections I have never found a standpipe system that was designed for fire department use with a design flow less than 250 GPM at the top most or most remote outlet.  We all know a 2 1/2" hand line flows approximately 250 GPM, therefore a properly maintained standpipe system can provide the appropriate flow. 

The next issue is pressure (PSI).  We all know that smooth bore nozzles operate best at 50 psi and there are a multitude of combination nozzles that operate at various pressures.  Standpipe systems design standards were written based upon firefighters using 2 1/2" hose with smooth bore nozzles.  These standards were first written in the 1960's and the modern versions are still based upon 2 1/2" hose and smooth bore nozzles.  NFPA 14 required 65 psi residual pressure from the top most standpipe outlet up until 1993.  From the 1993 edition of NFPA 14 until present 100 psi residual pressure is required from the top most or most remote outlet.  The 65 psi requirement was intended to ensure a productive fire flow when 3 lengths of 2 1/2" hose with a smooth bore nozzle was attached to the top standpipe outlet.  50 psi nozzle pressure + 5 psi friction loss per length of hose = 65 psi outlet pressure.  Operating in a building with a standpipe system designed before 1993 is our "worst case" scenario, so we will use the 65 psi requirement for further discussion. 

Having the proper hose/nozzle combination plays a pivotal role in standpipe operations being a success or failure.  New fire hose is not the same as older fire hose.  Newer hose creates much less friction loss than older hose which further enables fire departments to employ 1 3/4" hose for standpipe operations.  Regardless of which type of hose your department has you need to know its friction loss per length.  The easiest way to determine this is to hook 100 feet of hose up to the engine and place an in-line pressure gauge behind the nozzle.  Flow the line so you have the proper nozzle pressure at the in-line gauge and calculate the difference between the gauge on the pump panel and the in-line pressure gauge. 

Based on the above information about standpipe design we can rule out 100 psi combination nozzles for standpipe operations.  Even with the best fire hose with low friction loss and a system designed to have 100 psi residual pressure at the top most outlet we can reasonably conclude that we will not have 100 psi at the nozzle.  This is true with 2 1/2" line and will only be worse with smaller line as we know friction loss increases exponentially as hose size decreases. 

1 3/4" hose can create friction loss as high as 18.5 psi per 50 foot length, or 20 psi per length for firefighter friendly math.  To dismiss 1 3/4" hose as a realistic standpipe line lets look at a smooth bore nozzle with 1 length of hose.  50 psi nozzle pressure + 20 psi friction loss for 1 length of 1 3/4" line = 70 psi outlet pressure.  We know that older systems are only required to supply 65 psi at the top most outlet.  We should never connect less than 3 lengths of hose to a standpipe outlet.  We need at least 1 length to go from the floor below to the fire floor, one length for the hallway, and one length for the fire apartment.  For arguments sake lets be extremely generous and assume a fancy new piece of 1 3/4" line only creates 10 psi of friction loss per length, half of what the older hose produced.  With 50 psi needed to operate the nozzle + 30 psi friction loss = 80 psi needed at the standpipe outlet.  You can easily see how these issues are further compounded if using a nozzle that requires more than 50 psi.

It is no secret that I like smooth bore nozzles.  They are the simplest and NEARLY fireman proof.  Check out our Nozzles: Truths From The Street article for my thoughts on smooth bore versus combination nozzles.  There are some very nice low pressure fog nozzles on the market that will work well on a well maintained standpipe.  I still prefer the smooth bore nozzle because as hard as we try to ensure systems are well maintained, we really don't know how well they are maintained regardless of what the paperwork says.  When speaking of nozzle obstructions, I am far more concerned with items placed in the fire department connection (FDC) than items placed in the standpipe outlet.  We all (I hope) flush any standpipe outlet before hooking up to it.  Items placed in the FDC are not so easy to see or remove and can take some time to make it through the piping and into your nozzle.  Those items can be dealt with much easier when using a smooth bore nozzle as described in the Nozzles: Truths From The Street article. 

The other type of obstruction when dealing with standpipe systems is pipe scale.  Pipe scale occurs when rust and corrosion adhere to the inner surface of the pipes.  This also serves to increase friction loss in the pipe and can further reduce outlet pressure.  The fitting it the picture was removed from a sprinkler system that was found to have some pipe scale issues.  Pipe scale will not be found unless an internal pipe inspection is conducted.  Pipe scale will have no effect on the operability of a smooth bore nozzle but can have a devastating impact on combination nozzles by clogging the tip. 

Feel free to add your comments, questions, or suggestions.  I will expand on this topic soon with some information about in-line pressure gauges for standpipe operations. 

Cutting the Locks

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Brotherhood Instructors believes in having multiple plans in mind for any forcible entry situation.  A back-up plan for forcing an outward opening door can be cutting the locks.  We prefer to gap the door away from the frame and cut the throw of the lock as opposed to cutting the door, known as the "bird beak cut".  The bird beak cut seldom works since it is very difficult to cut completely through the door due to the door frame getting in the way. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you decide to cut the locks, gap the door away from the jamb using the halligan or axe.  Start the saw blade spinning at a low RPM to make a groove in the bolt of the lock and then throttle to full RPM to complete the cut.  This is an especially helpful technique when dealing with foot bolts.  Having the power saw set up in the outboard position will allow the saw to better cut the foot bolts.  Click here for our previous blog on foot bolts.  Be sure when cutting the bolt of any lock to cut as close to the door as possible.  This will ensure that the lock can not re-latch once the tool holding the gap has been removed. 

 

 

Brotherhood Instructors class in Wildwood NJ

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Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. will be presenting our 8-hour hands-on "Beyond the Academy: Engine & Ladder Company Operations" class on Thursday September 15, 2011.  This course is hosted by the Cape May County Fire Chiefs Assn. – Click here for registration information!  Sign up now, don't get left out!

Click here to see pictures from last years class!

Beyond the Academy: Engine & Ladder Company Operations consists of parts of our Beyond the Academy: Engine Company Operations & Beyond the Academy: Ladder Company Operations classes.  Check out these videos for a quick overview of the course material.

 

 

2012-04-21 – Sergeant Bluff, IA – BtA Machinery Rescue – Flier & Registration Form

Beeton MIM

Fergus MIM[1]

Mt Holly Flyer2

Antonia Flyer2

Course Catalog – Email Version

Checking for Extension

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Firefighters assigned to the roof play a critical role in numerous fire ground tasks.  Vertical ventilation, building information, and checking for fire extension to the cockloft or attic space are just a few of these tasks.  Vertical ventilation and checking for extension can often be done together by taking a skylight and opening the skylight returns.  Click here to see our previous video on that topic.  When the roof is pitched or there is a void space along the parapet fire can easily extend through these spaces. 

Many times the roof is pitched downwards from the front of the building to the rear in order to allow drainage at the back of the building.  If there is a fire in the rear of the building and the roof is pitched downward from front to rear an inspection hole should be made towards the front of the building.  Throughout the operation monitor this inspection hole for heat, smoke, and fire.  If fire extension is found or expected, enlarge the opening and radio the findings to your company officer or incident commander.  This further illustrates the importance of checking for fire in the cockloft immediately inside the entrance of a commercial building if no one is assigned to the roof.

Roof void spaces are a common path of fire travel.  Firefighters assigned to the roof should place inspection cuts in void areas if there is any suspicion of fire in the cockloft or voids.  Triangular void spaces along the parapet are very common in residential and commercial buildings.  Usually these void spaces conceal structural members used to support the parapet.  If fire is found in this area be sure that no one is on the sidewalk below the parapet.  Here are a few pictures of this construction feature courtesy of Keith Morse from the Woodland Twp. NJ Fire Dept.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

See more from our Beyond the Academy: Ladder Company Operations class

Video – The Quick Louver – By: Jamie Morelock

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Check out the latest addition to the Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. Video Training Series.  Instructor Jamie Morelock reviews the vertical ventilation tactic known as the louver cut.

Pulling Mortise Lock Cylinders

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Mortise locks are commonly found in commercial and residential buildings.  Many mortise locks are installed with a trim plate on the door that has predrilled holes for the lock cylinder and door knob.  Keep in mind that these are trim plates, not cylinder guards.  These trim plates are hollow and can easily be dented in to allow the lock pulling tool a better bite on the cylinder. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After verifying that the door is in fact locked, dent the cylinder guard in with a tool to expose the sides of the cylinder.  Once this has been done, set the lock puller onto the cylinder and give it a few hits to set it in place.  Now pull the cylinder.  With this type of lock it is sometimes helpful to rock the lock pulling tool back and forth to loosen the cylinder up.  After the cylinder has been removed, you can proceed with your through the lock operation. 

 

 

 

 

 

This video demonstrates rocking the tool from side to side to assist in removing the cylinder.  Be sure to always have your irons available in case the through the lock operation fails as in this video.