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Making a Difference in Quebec!

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In April of 2011, Brotherhood Instructors conducted 3 days of "Beyond the Academy: Forcible Entry Operations" training at the IPIQ training facility in Laval Quebec.  The IPIQ is the province wide training facility for all career firefighters in Quebec and roughly translates to: "Institute for the Protection Against the Fires of Quebec".  After class last year we toured several City of Montreal firehouses and discovered that the forcible entry tools provided by the department were somewhat lacking – 3 piece pinned halligans and pick head axes.  After the three days of training we left feeling a sense of pride and accomplishment that we were able to share our forcible entry knowledge and experiences with firefighters that were so eager to learn and put these techniques to use. 

We began to realize that we had made an impact when we received this photo from Captain Mart Corriveau of the Montreal Fire Department! 

 

 

 

 

 

Shortly after receiving the above photo we came across this photo from a fire in Montreal.  1 piece halligan, flat head axe, and the gap and cut technique that we review in our course!  The member on the right in the blue helmet had attended the class.  Thanks to www.coderouge.com for the use of the picture.

We were in invited back this year to conduct our "Beyond the Academy: Advanced Forcible Entry Ops" course for the academy staff as well as an open enrollment forcible entry weekend course.  We were pleased to hear that since our course last year, the City of Montreal has equipped each of its companies with a 1 piece drop forged halligan and flat head axe.  The instructors at the IPIQ facility have also begun integrating hands-on forcible entry training into their recruit school.  The academy purchased two door props from H & R Machine and now teaches students to force inward and outward opening doors.  Forcible entry scenarios are then integrated in everything from EMS training to RIT scenarios. 

We would like to thank the IPIQ for having us out to teach their academy staff  We are extremely proud that our teachings will now be passed along to every firefighter in the province of Quebec.  We hope that these techniques serve you well on the fireground and improve your abilities to serve your communities. 

Posted by on June 19, 2012 • Filed under: administration-leadership, Brotherhood Topics, Class Photos, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Beyond the Academy: Video Training Series – Forcing Slide Bolts & Drop Bars

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Here is the latest addition to our Beyond the Academy: Video Training Series.  This clip includes some tips and tricks for forcing slide bolts and drop bars on outward opening doors.  Feel free to add your comments, questions, or suggestions!  As always – no framing square needed!

 

Posted by on May 9, 2012 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Uncategorized, videos • Tagged:

Another Rex Tool Modification – By: Andrew Brassard

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Ever since my first blog on modifying a standard rex tool to be able to carry it in your pocket I have received lots of emails and had lots of questions about which modification (the pipe or the adz bracket). The reason why there is a debate about which one is better or more applicable is because I tend to like the adz bracket modification better because it allows you to rock the tool side to side and "walk" tough cylinders out off the door, with the pipe modification you loose the ability for the side to side movement.

The main reason that some guys like the pipe modification better is because in their company they utilise the wide adz halligan. So my latest project was to come up with a way to use either the pike or the adz to pull the cylinders. I have also seen on different blogs and websites  several other modifications by other people to give the ability to use both, this was usually accomplished by welding a pipe on the top of the adz bracket. This modification made the tool extremely heavy and awkward. Remember that this is a tool that you want to carry in your pocket most of the time, it should not look like something that a gas station should have the rest room keys attached to!

The first thing I did was cut the handle off a standard Rex Tool with a band saw. The next thing was I cut the length of the head down by 1'' to decrease the weight and size of lock puller, the head was now ready for the new staple. The new staple had to be made to accommodate the pike and the adz, the answer was far simpler than you might think. With the help of Jamie Hiller at H and R Machine I used a shop press to bow the centre of a piece of 1/4'' plate, the ends were then bent to fit the width of the lock puller. A MIG welder was then used to attach the bracket to the lock puller.

This modification gives you the best of both worlds, it allows you to be able to perform through the lock using either the pike or the adz. This new modification gives you a tremendous and light weight lock pulling option that you can keep in your pocket.

Posted by on March 1, 2012 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Slide Bolt Forcible Entry: Part 2

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Click on the image to view or download the PDV version.

Slide Bolts – Exterior PDF

Posted by on February 13, 2012 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Training, training-development • Tagged:

Slide Bolt Forcible Entry

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Check out this info sheet for some forcible entry tips when dealing with slide bolts.  Feel free to print it out and post it in the firehouse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slide Bolts – Interior

Posted by on February 2, 2012 • Filed under: firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Training, training-development • Tagged:

Forcible Entry – The Bam Bam Tool – By: Paul Hoekema

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There are numerous ways to manipulate an American Series 2000 type lock to force entry (hockey puck locks with the key way on the rim of the lock not the face).  You can cut the lock ¾ opposite of the keyway, you can cut the rail above and below the lock and bend the rail out of the way, or you can use a pipe wrench and twist the lock off (if it doesn’t have a guard) just to name a few.  What happens if you’re on an engine and you don’t have all the tools that the truck carries to force these locks?  A simple solution to your problem is the Bam Bam tool.  The Bam Bam tool doesn’t take up much space and allows you to start forcible entry on American Series 2000 type locks until the truck arrives.  The Bam Bam tool utilizes a hardened screw to screw into the key way of the lock and a handle that slides along the shaft of the tool.  It is important to make sure that the screw is hardened.  If it isn’t then the screw may not screw into the lock cylinder, or when you go to force the cylinder the threads of the screw may strip causing the screw to come out of the cylinder without forcing the lock. 

To force the lock using the Bam Bam tool you need to place the screw in the center of the key way and begin to screw the tool into place.  It may take a few seconds to get the screw to bite into the cylinder, but once it does you want to screw it in about 3/16ths to ¼ of an inch into the cylinder.  It is about 4 or 5 threads deep into the cylinder.  You want to screw it in this deep so that you don’t strip the threads when you go to force the lock.  It is important to keep the Bam Bam tool as strait as possible while you are screwing it into position, so that the screw bites into the cylinder evenly giving it a better bite into the cylinder.  Once the screw is set you need to hold the Bam Bam tool with one hand while the other slides the handle back and forth along the shaft of the tool to force the cylinder and the pin of the lock out.  After the cylinder and pin is pulled out remove the lock. Don't forget to pull the pins after forcing the locks!

Using the Bam Bam tool would not be my first option for forcing American 2000 series type locks, but is something good to have in your bag of tricks when other methods of forcible entry can’t be used or are not available.  This method will not work on the American Lock 2500 Series.

 

Posted by on January 10, 2012 • Filed under: Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-development, videos

Forcing Doors In Zero Visibility – By: Andrew Brassard

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Anyone who has ever forced a challenging door in zero visibility knows it can be one of the most difficult forcible entry challenges a crew will ever face, for those of you that have not… This challenge still awaits you.

Weather it is an apartment door on the fire floor of a garden apartment, the illegal basement apartment door in a private dwelling, or the door in a SRO on the floor above the fire the potential to need to force some tough door under arduous conditions is always present. The fact is that we as a fire service typically don't get much practice or direction on forcible entry techniques under favorable conditions let alone under zero or diminished visibility conditions. In this blog we are going to look at several different techniques for forcing entry under zero visibility conditions.

Size Up
Since we are unable to see size up is going to be tougher and normal and is going to be accomplished primarily by feel, both with your hands and the way the tool reacts on the door.

The first step is to feel the door with a gloved hand for any primary and secondary locks, bolt patterns, heat, etc. This will help establish a game plan of attack on the door. Remember you want to start with the highest lock first and work your way down so any heat or smoke behind the door will vent up and away from you.

After a rapid and thorough size up is complete you can begin forcing the door. You are going to GAP, SET, FORCE just like any other forcible entry operation, the only real difference comes from the setting the tool and more specifically the hitting techniques. We are going to look at 3 different hitting techniques that you can utilize to help you drive the halligan into the SET position.  

Double Tap Method
The double tap is more than just Rule 2 in Zombieland, it is a great method for forcing doors in smoky conditions. The double tap method works well in limited visibility situations but it allows a little to much margin of error for zero visibility operations to be an effective option. To perform this technique the axe firefighter lines up the axe with the halligan, he then taps the halligan lightly followed up right after by a more powerful hit. This small tap does a couple of things for both the firefighter holding the halligan and the firefighter hitting. First, it provides a small "practice" swing for the axe firefighter allowing him to build some muscle memory. Second, it gives warning to the firefighter on the halligan not to move because a more powerful hit is coming. Some firefighters like to use the double tap method all the time while forcing doors regardless of the conditions, it really comes down to preference.

Squared Off Shoulder
Most firefighters I talk to about the topic of zero visibility forcible entry say that they square the shoulders on their halligan forks off so that it will provide a striking surface without having the possibility of missing and striking the firefighter who is holding the halligan. This modification is not new to the fire service and I see firefighters modifying their tools like this all over North America, the problem is that if you are going to modify you halligan like this and then not practice the technique often and in realistic conditions then you might as well not even bother performing the modification in the first place. It can be challenging to perform this method and can take a tremendous amount of practice and patience. After the shoulders have been squared off the firefighter with the halligan can place the forks in between the door and the frame, with both hands on the back of the halligan the axe can be placed on the halligan shaft and slide it down to make contact with the squared off shoulder. Ensure that you keep a open palm grip on the back of halligan, if you have a firm grip on the adz or pike and the axe is brought back to far the blade of the axe could severely injury a finger… So keep a open palm grip. I like to keep the squared off shoulders for tight spaces or narrow hallways where you cannot stand behind the halligan to hit it.

One Handed Method
This technique in my opinion is the best method for forcing entry in zero visibility. The halligan firefighter takes their normal stance and hand position on the halligan with the exception of their hand closest to the adz, slide the hand closet to the adz more towards the middle of the halligan. The axe firefighter is going to take a kneeling position behind the halligan firefighter, the bottom hand on the axe is taken off and placed onto the halligan directly behind the adz. This hand is placed on the halligan to provide a point of reference for each swing of the axe. Remember to keep a loose grip on the halligan, your mission is not to impede or steer the halligan but to simple provide that point of reference. The next thing the axe firefighter can do to make life easier for them is to place the butt-end of the axe between their knees, this with help there swings tremendously by making the axe into a large pendulum. This pendulum action will help you deliver even and steady hits on target each time. Sometime with higher locks the firefighter will have to stand to swing the axe, the same steps are repeated with the exception of placing the axe between their knees.

 

 

 

 

 

Depth
How do you know when the halligan is in the set position? When you can see, we know that you want to drive it in until the crotch of the forks is level with the door stop but when we can't see we have to perform this by feel. An easy way to tell is by placing your thumb on the shoulder of the halligan then place three fingers along the side of the forks, the finger furthest away from your thumb should be level with the door stop. Slide your top finger forward and feel for the halligans orientation to the door stop. Not having the halligan set deep enough before prying is one of the biggest problems I see with zero visibility forcible entry, if the halligan is not driven in far enough it may pop out when it is pushed to the door.

The key to being able to force doors effectively in zero visibility and challenging conditions is to prepare for them through aggressive and realistic training. I recently talked to a close friend from a extremely busy urban department that just experienced a close call at a fire, one of the major problems that they experienced on the fireground was a delay of getting water on the fire due to a drawn out forcible entry operation. Crews were faced with a very difficult door in fairly horrendous smoke and heat conditions. After the fire crews talked about how they had never really been shown how to perform forcible entry operations under such strenuous and difficult conditions, the problem is that lots of firefighters tend to feel they don't need this type of training because they have never needed to force a real tough door under these conditions before. I use the analogy of RIT training, you only ever have to use it once on the fireground to make the training worth while.

I often get asked about injury while performing this type of training. I taught a recruit class for my department recently and I had the 10 recruits force hundreds of doors in zero visibility and in live fire conditions and never once did we even hurt anyones feelings. You need to ask yourself "what is the potential for a fireground injury if we DON'T do this training!"

Till next time stay safe!

Posted by on December 12, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, technology-communications-ems-topics, Training, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Come Along – By: Mike Tesarski

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During my initial training as a firefighter in Michigan I was shown the benefits of using a come along.  This training included a “steering column pull” for auto extrication that would pull the steering column and the dash away from the patient freeing them from their entrapments.  I was even shown an example where we literally folded a car in half to show how powerful the come along was. 

A few years later I was hired by a large city in Canada that taught us this same technique, the only problem was that steering columns were now adjustable and this created a hazard as the rack and pinion system is broken up into two, three, or even four parts.  When applying force on these parts the rack and pinion system is the weak area that could snap off and injure the patient or rescuers.  As soon as it was realized that the rack and pinion system was on most cars the come along tool took a back seat in the auto extrication toolbox.

The come-along is a hand operated ratchet lever winch. The lever is used to pull the cable into the wench and the ratchet is the brake that keeps the wire from unwinding (similar to those seen on boat winches).  It is light and compact that can be deployed in many situations.  The only problem with this tool is the ignorance that surrounds it.

I myself used to say to my coworkers, that if you wanted to look like you had no idea what you were doing then take out the Come Along tool and that would prove it.  Funny, the more education and training I get with such tools, the more apt I am to use hand tools over the gas powered hydraulic option.   This is a great example of why I always say, “you don’t know what you don’t know”. 

This brings up the point of training on the equipment that is carried on our trucks.  I’m guilty of thinking that some of our tools that we carry are useless, again I didn’t know what I didn’t know. 

Recently myself and a couple other instructors from Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. attended a course put on by Michigan State University about industrial machinery entrapments.  We used the come along in a few scenarios and it worked great.  The come along was used to lift devices, shore equipment, and binding heavy objects in place.  Keep in mind when using this that it is either a whole “click” on the ratchet or none.  It does not have the capabilities of moving smaller distances.

With the most standard come along assemblies it has the pulling power of 3000 lbs if used with the pulley, or it has 1500 lbs of pulling force without using the pulley.  There are of course, larger and smaller models. 

Pull the come along off your truck with your crew and go over the pros and cons of using this device. If you realize the potential of this piece of equipment it may go from your “plan D” to part of your “plan A” during your initial actions.

Posted by on December 5, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Tool Modifications 2.0 – The 8 Pound Force Axe – By: Shane Klug

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February 2011, I transferred to a ladder company, my first time being assigned to a truck.  Detroit ladder trucks typically have 6-pound pick head axes and 8-pound sledge hammers on them.  I tried both of them on the roof, and my tool of choice became the 6-pound pick head axe. I managed to get my hands on an 8-pound pick head axe and gave that a try. While the extra weight was great for smashing through roofs, the balance was VERY nose heavy, which made it harder to control and also very uncomfortable to carry.  Over the summer I was able to attend the Brotherhood Instructors Forcible Entry Ops class held in Independence Twp Michigan, where I used an 8-pound flathead axe, specifically the fire hooks unlimited 8-pound force axe.  I really liked the way the axe was balanced.  It was easy to control when swinging (in the forcible entry class) and seemed easy to carry.  Sometime after the class I purchased my own to use at work.  I decided to make some modifications, but with a twist, compared to what I had seen in the Brotherhood Instructor class.  First, I wanted to try and put the “notch” that allows the halligan forks to marry with the axe in a location that put both tool handles together, so I could get my hand around both tools. In Detroit, most front door forcible entry is performed by engine companies, so for me, I won’t be carrying a halligan much. So the more important modification I wanted was some kind of overstrike protection for my axe, as it would be used mainly for venting the peak roof of single family dwellings.  I had seen small sections of angle iron welded on the bottom of the axe head on the axes used in Gary Fire Dept (Gary, IN).  But they were welded with some space between the angle irons and the handle itself. In my opinion, this location for the over strike protection made it very difficult to carry the axe, especially while climbing up ladders etc.  So I had a friend TIG weld on some sections of angle iron below the head of the axe, but positioned them right against the handle of the axe, following the axe handle contour.  For those of you who have used an axe on a roof to smash a vent hole, you know that often times the axe head will smash through the roof deck and stop on the handle itself, over time break the axe handle right below the axe head itself.  Hopefully this modification will add some life to the tool for me.

 

I know this axe is called an 8-pound force axe, but I think the name sells this tool short.  As I mentioned above, I don’t do the majority of forcible entry, as the engine companies often do the front door and Detroit truck companies only carry one halligan, which is mainly carried by the boss of the truck.  My main objective as a deckie on the back end is to make the roof and ventilate. The vast majority of the time, I’m using this axe to open single family dwelling roofs.  When used in tandem with a saw (chain or rotary), I can use the flat side of the axe to “turn” the boards over on the rafters after they have been cut.  Of if there is no saw available (or the roof doesn’t lend itself to using a saw), I can use the blade side of the axe to start a hole (especially on roof decks that have multiple layers of shingles), then can flip over to continue smashing the roof boards.

       All in all, this axe is fantastic for forcible entry and makes a great tool for vertical ventilation. With the addition of the over strike protection, hopefully the tool will have a long service life opening roofs!

Posted by on November 17, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Roof Ops, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Through the Lock – Pivoting Deadbolt & Hookbolt

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Through the lock forcible entry is a quick and easy method of gaining entry into doors locked with pivoting deadbolts and pivoting hookbolts.  This skill is easier than many believe.  Click on this through the lock info sheet to download a PDF version.  Feel free to use it, print it, and share it with your crews. 

 

Posted by on November 8, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Duckbill Lock Breaker – By: Andrew Brassard

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Nowadays firefighters tend to become over reliant on saws during forcible entry operations and often forget some of the most basic of fireground tools. The Duckbill Lock Breaker is one such a tool that has become a forgotten tool that tends to sit in a compartment on the truck. But what about the times when, the saw does not start? Or you have to change the blade? Or you have to remove locks inside of a building where the saw will be choked out by the smoke? The duckbill is a tremendous secondary tool for these situations.

The Duckbill Lock Breaker works by driving the lock shackle off the body of the lock. The lock breaker will remove an American 700 Series Lock with no problem, in fact there are very few locks that can not be defeated by the lock breaker. One lock the can withstand the forces that can be applied with the lock breaker is the disc type lock. If a disc type lock is present a different forcible entry method should be utilized.

 

The Duckbill Lock Breaker is a single functioning tool, meaning it's only function is to force entry into padlocks.

The duckbill is made of soft metal, usually brass. The reason for making it out of soft metal is so that as it is driven down in between the padlock body and the shackle the lock will "bite" into the soft metal of the wedge and hold it's position until it is struck again. Every time the lock breaker is struck it is driven down a little further into the lock, this places more and more pressure on the lock until it finally fails. If the wedge was made out of a hardened metal it would simply bounce out every time it was struck.  

To use the Duckbill Lock Breaker, simply place the wedge into the lock. This is where mistakes get made! The only way the duckbill will work is with the top edge of the wedge on the shackle and the bottom edge of the duckbill on the body of the lock, do not put the duckbill into the lock with the top and bottom rails on both side of  the shackle! Once the lock breaker is in place use the 8 lbs forcible entry axe or a 12 lbs Maul to drive the duckbill into the lock, continue driving it in until the lock fails. It is that simple!

So dust off the duckbill lock breaker, dig it out from the compartment, or buy one to include to your forcible entry arsenal. It is a great tool that can prove to be extremely valuable on the fireground.

 

 

 

 

Posted by on October 31, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Coordinated Ventilation

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Take a look at these two videos for a great example of coordinated ventilation.  The outside vent (OV) firefighter on the fire escape waits until the line is putting water on the fire to take the windows.  Doing so helps the engine make the advance into the fire area a little easier.  Waiting until the line is ready will ensure that you do not prematurely feed the fire additional oxygen and possibly trap firefighters searching ahead of the line. 

 

 

Posted by on October 26, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, Engine Company Ops, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation, videos • Tagged:

Electric Roll Up Gates – By: Andrew Brassard

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Not all forcible entry has to be forcible, in some cases a little knowledge and some finesse will get the job done quicker than some more traditional methods.

One such instance is Electric Roll Up Doors and Gates.  With a little bit of knowledge and a screwdriver entry into these gates can be very fast with very little force. Electric Roll up Gates are most commonly found in my area on loading docks, garbage rooms, and on the occasional roll up gate. These electric door openers are usually found mounted around 4' off the ground directly beside the door that it opens. There is a key way on the control panel.  This key way controls the door going up and down. The key way is often a standard mortise lock cylinder, on the back side of the cylinder. A large pivoting arm is bolted to the key way. When the key is inserted and turned the pivoting arm will twist and hit a limiter switch to either roll the door up or down.

 

 

 

Forcing entry
Forcing entry into the door usually does not require very much force at all, the only tool that you need is a screwdriver in most cases. The first thing you want to do is undo the screws in the four corners of the face plate. I have been told by friends that they have encountered security screws in these from time to time, I have never encountered these security screws. Most of the time standard Philips, Robertson, or Slot headed screws hold the face plate on. Once the screws have been removed the face plate will need to be pried off with a halligan or Rex Tool. The reason for this is that the pivoting arm on the back side of the cylinder hits small tabs on the  edges of the electrical box. The tabs are why it says on the front of the lock face that you must have the key in order to open the lock, when the key is inserted into the key way and it is turned the pivoting arm turns and is able to fit past the tabs on the electrical box. To pry the face plate off is not difficult, these tabs on the electrical box are light gauge galvanized metal that will bend quite easily with a little pressure with a prying tool.

Operating the gate
Once the face plate has been removed and pried out you can operate the gate. Directly behind the pivoting arm is a limiting switch with a simple button to operate the gate up and down, there is one button on each side of the lock cylinder. You can simply use your finger (or a pencil if it makes you feel more comfortable) to push the button and activate the door. If you look at the face plate you may be able to tell what side the limiter switch is for "Up" and what one is for "Down" by the words on both sides of the lock cylinder. If no words indicating what side is "Up" are present simply try pushing one side, if it does not work it means that it is the other side. Keep in mind that you are dealing with live electrical wires so extreme caution must be taken not to touch any wires, if you use the proper techniques and give any electrical component the respect it deserves than that should not be a problem.

Also remember to take a thorough look at the gate and properly size it up. If there are additional locks on the door such as traditional pin, hasp, and padlock assemblies, then these locks must be removed before this entry method can be performed.

In some instances these gates are also locked from the inside or the electrical switch no longer works, in these instances the gate or door will have to be cut with a power saw.

Also be sure to check with your departmental SOP's and SOG's before performing this entry method, some departments have policies against members touching an electrical equipment such as this.

This is an extremely quick and effective method for forcing entry and it causes very little damage. The best way to prepare for these types of forcible entry situations is to pay a visit to the company in your city or town that install these electric gate openers, ask them to run you through the most common types that they install in your area.

Till next time, stay safe!

Posted by on September 30, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Modular Cribbing – By: Mike Tesarski

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One thing I've always liked about the Fire Service is the ability to improvise, adapt, and overcome problems. If you give a firefighter a problem you can be assured they will come up with an answer. I have always found it interesting to visit firehouses across North America and see different tools and equipment that have been modified or made “in-house” to solve a specific problem that the department or crew faced.

One such homegrown invention that firefighters have come up with is known as modular cribbing.  This invention came from the Mississauga Extrication Team in 1997, when the need for speedy vehicle stabilization was needed with limited manpower.

After trying a few versions of this cribbing the final product was perfected.  Modular cribbing is 6 4×4 wood cribs that are divided into two separate modules and screwed together firmly on two rubber mats (conveyor belt). Using a more solid piece of rubber allows the crib to be slid into space and rotated with ease. Each 4×4 is spaced 4 inches apart. This allows two tiers of 3 4×4 box cribbing to be stacked. This also allows for the two sheets of cribbing to be stored as one solid piece. Both pieces are held together with a metal bar slid through the middle where holes are drilled.  A handle made of a piece of seatbelt nailed to the end makes this easy to take off a truck shelf and carried to the scene.

To deploy the modular cribbing is a simple process. The cribbing point is selected and then the metal pin can be pulled, this separates the 2 individual modules allowing them to be stacked in opposite directions in place underneath the vehicle or what ever is going to be lifted. 

Another tremendous advantage of the modular cribbing is that because the cribs are tied together with the rubber matting it helps prevent the cribbing stack from slipping or inadvertently moving during extrication or lifting operations. The belting also provides a fantastic and stable platform for air bag operations

One point of contact on a 4×4 crib will hold approximately 6,000 pounds of force. With nine points of contact this cribbing will support up to 54,000 pounds which is ideal for stabilization of large vehicles or heavy machinery. Airbags can be used on top of the modular cribbing with ease and stability.

Having used this type of crib in competition and in "real life" scene I can tell you that it is extremely useful and quick.

Posted by on September 24, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, rescues, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Changing Saw Blades – Diamonds are a Firemen’s best friend too – By Grant Light

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Over the past few years there have been some big changes in the type of circular saw blades used by fire departments across the country.  In the past almost all of the metal and concrete cutting was accomplished with fiber wheels made of a sacrificial material such as aluminum oxide or silicon carbide.  The biggest problem with these blades was that they got smaller as you cut, causing you to change blades during a rescue and at times not allowing you the depth of cut needed to get the job done.  The potential for blades to fly apart during operations was also a big safety issue.  You had one blade for metal, one for concrete and at times one for stone.  Just that fact alone required a quick decision about the work to be done and in some instances quick blade changes were required before cutting could begin.

Just like everything else in the fire service, saw blades have changed dramatically as new technologies have moved from the construction industry to the rescue services.  Diamonds are where that technology has taken us.  Many different types of diamond blades are available but we will look at two, Segmented and Vacuum Braised.  Segmented blades have a diamond impregnated segment attached to a steel wheel.  They were originally designed for cutting concrete with imbedded rebar.  They moved to the fire service through US&R teams and are used by many companies to cut metal during forcible entry operations.

The newest additions to diamond technology are the Vacuum Braised blades.  They have very high quality diamonds attached directly to the steel wheel.  This removes any chance of a diamond segment coming off the wheel and becoming a projectile during operations.  These blades can cut an extremely wide range of products such as Hardened locks & shackles, hockey puck locks, security gates, re-bar, chain-link fence, stucco, concrete, block, brick, stone, asphalt, wood, drywall, car doors, ductile iron, cast iron, angle iron, black iron, schedule 40 &80 steel pipe, plastic pipe, 2x4s and plywood.  These blades will do all this without reducing the depth of cut and outlasting fiber wheels 100:1 or more.  During training at a scrap yard we cut through a fiberglass roof on a conversion van, which was backed up by 4 layers of OSB plywood and then turned and cut the class 3-trailer hitch off the rear of the vehicle.   We were using a Desert Diamond vacuum braised blade and it didn’t skip a beat.  The ability to grab a circular saw and cut just about anything you encounter is a welcome change from the blades we used just a few years ago.  These new blades have a higher upfront cost but their ability to cut a wide range of materials, remain a constant diameter and outlast any forcible entry cutting scenario you might encounter make them a smart choice as you move forward into the future of circular saw blades.

Posted by on August 25, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, Ladders, rescues, RIT or FAST Operations, Roof Ops, Search, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Hit, Hit, Hit Part 2 – By: Andrew Brassard

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In the last article we talked about ensuring that the striking firefighter has their top hand at least 6" down from the head of the axe.  This is to ensure that any missed strikes don't crush the striking firefighters fingers.

Now we are going to talk about where to place your bottom hand and how to position your body for optimal striking during conventional forcible entry operations.

Just like the placement of your top hand, your bottom hand placement can be critical to a smooth forcible entry operation. For some reason, lots of firefighters want to choke their bottom hand up to around the middle of the axe.  This grip can lead to problems during forcible entry operations. What tends to happen when using this type of grip is that as the striking firefighter swings the axe, the butt end of the handle digs into the firefighter holding the halligans leg. The momentum of the axe being swung usually doesn't stop once the butt end of the axe handle bumps the firefighters leg.  The momentum tends to carry the axe through the swing but drastically off target. This obviously can lead to missed hits and the potential of injuring a member.  Instead, place your bottom hand down at the bottom of the axe just above the fawns foot. This will allow you to be more aware of where the butt end of the axe handle is.

 

Don't be a Fool…. Cross your Tools
Another very common striking  mistake is not crossing your tools. The optimal striking position for the axe is to have it crossing the adz of the halligan and not in line with it. The reason for crossing the tools is that it increases your striking surface to allow for small inaccuracies. With the axe in line with the adz it leaves very little margin for error for the striking firefighter, if he is off the mark by only 1" this could cause a glancing hit on the adz and cause the halligan firefighter to be struck. If the axe and the adz of halligan are crossed it will increase your margin of error by giving you 2" up and down and 3" left to right leeway in your swing.

Keep your Eye on the Ball
When I was a young kid my father was teaching me how to catch a baseball and the first thing he said was "keep your eye on the ball", this principle applies the same to forcing a door. You should always try to make yourself eye level with the adz, this will make your swing much more accurate. Depending on the location of the lock being forced, you may have to take a knee, crouch, or you may be standing straight up, but for the majority of locks that are located in the middle of the door the striking firefighter should take position on their knees.

These small tips will help you be more proficient during you forcible entry operations.

Until next time, stay safe.

Posted by on August 22, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Search, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Hit, Hit, Hit – By: Andrew Brassard

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I have been teaching forcible entry for almost 10 years, in that time I have seen a few injuries. It sometimes comes with the territory: bumps, bruises, and the odd black finger nail have happened when both members of the forcible entry team are not on the same page. One of the simplest mistakes that I have seen firefighters make that leads to injuries is holding the axe too high on the shaft. A lot of firefighters are thought to hold the shaft of the axe directly below the head. In my opinion this is an incorrect grip.

The reason that this grip is not favorable is because if the striking firefighter is off the mark with the swing by only a few inches the can crush their fingers between the shaft of the axe and the halligan adz. I have seen this on several occasions and a couple of times it has led to a black finger nail or a broken digit. This is a serious problem not only because of a member getting injured but on the fire ground the forcible entry operation is halted which could cause significant delays in entry, water on the fire, ventilation, or commencement of search and rescue operations.

To avoid this, ensure that your members keep their top hand at least 6" below the head of the axe. Lots of companies, to ensure that there members do not forget this, place there company identification colors or number at least 6" down from the axe head, this will be a subtle reminder to keep your hand down and it will also build company pride and ensure no other company walks away with your tools.

Posted by on August 21, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Search, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Cutting the Locks

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Brotherhood Instructors believes in having multiple plans in mind for any forcible entry situation.  A back-up plan for forcing an outward opening door can be cutting the locks.  We prefer to gap the door away from the frame and cut the throw of the lock as opposed to cutting the door, known as the "bird beak cut".  The bird beak cut seldom works since it is very difficult to cut completely through the door due to the door frame getting in the way. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you decide to cut the locks, gap the door away from the jamb using the halligan or axe.  Start the saw blade spinning at a low RPM to make a groove in the bolt of the lock and then throttle to full RPM to complete the cut.  This is an especially helpful technique when dealing with foot bolts.  Having the power saw set up in the outboard position will allow the saw to better cut the foot bolts.  Click here for our previous blog on foot bolts.  Be sure when cutting the bolt of any lock to cut as close to the door as possible.  This will ensure that the lock can not re-latch once the tool holding the gap has been removed. 

 

 

Posted by on July 29, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Search, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Bevel to the… door? jamb?

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The debate among firefighters over the correct way to set the halligan is as common as the age old smooth-bore vs. fog nozzle debate.  Both techniques, much like the nozzles, have their time and place.  Setting the halligan with the bevel of the fork towards the door is the correct and most efficient technique in most cases.  The pictures below speak for themselves and illustrate why having the bevel towards the door is advantageous.  It's simple, more spread and a better chance of forcing the door without having to employ additional steps and techniques. 

3 inches of spread can be achieved when the halligan is set with the bevel of the fork towards the door and the tool is pushed flush to the door.

2.25 inches of spread can be achieved when the halligan is set with the bevel of the fork towards the jamb.

So why do some firefighters choose to set the tool with the bevel towards the jamb?  The biggest reasons are lack of training and because it is easier.  There is no doubt that the tool will set easier with the bevel facing the jamb.  The easiest way to do something is usually not the best.  It takes more training and practice to be able to "steer" the forks between the door and the jamb with the bevel towards the door.  When the fork is set with the bevel towards the jamb less spread cab be achieved for two reasons.  First the natural curve of the fork provided additional spread when used with the bevel towards the jamb.  Second, the halligan can not be pushed flush with the door in this orientation due to the adz coming in contact with the door. 

As stated above, using the halligan with the bevel towards the jamb does have its place – actually two places.  The first instance that may necessitate this orientation of the tool is an extremely tight door.  If the door is too tight to set the tool with the bevel towards the door, flip the tool over and get back to work.  The second instance is an odd hallway configuration.  If the adz of the halligan is obstructed by a wall, railing, or some other hindrance the tool can be flipped over to bypass the obstruction. 

Only proper practice will improve technique and effectiveness.  Practicing incorrectly doesn't help and often instills false hope and a false sense of security in tactics that will not work in the real world.  When practicing forcible entry techniques, practice with the fork both ways while keeping in mind that the bevel should be towards the door most of the time.

Posted by on June 8, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Covered Skylights – By: Chris Collier

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We have done numerous articles about skylights, here is another.  These building features can be an asset to firefighters assigned to the roof as a means for quick ventilation.  Their location, many times above the interior stairs, makes them an ideal vertical ventilation location.  Relieving the interior stairs of smoke will help civilians evacuate, possibly increase visibility for the forcible entry team, and allow the engine to stretch to the proper location a little easier. 

Conversely, skylights can be dangerous to an unknowing firefighter, especially on a smokey roof.  Leaking skylights are many times replaced by removing the skylight and roofing over the area that was once the skylight.  If you are lucky this area of the roof will be raised and it will be obvious that this situation exists.  If not, the skylight can be covered over flush with the rest of the roof, increasing the danger. 

The quality of this patch job is where our concern lies.  If this area is properly framed out, covered with plywood, and then roofed over we are in pretty good shape.  Often these openings are covered with only a thin piece of plywood with no framing underneath and then covered with roofing material.  As you can see in this photo the once skylight has been framed out with 2×4" and then covered with plywood and rolled roofing. 

A few roof safety tips:

  • Be cautious of any area that appears to have been patched

Any patched area can be hazardous, not only roofed over skylights.  Patches normally indicate an area that was leaking.  The roof surface has been repaired to stop the leak but the water damage to the structural components beneath can not be seen. 

  • Avoid walking across roofed over skylights
  • If you can't see, crawl
  • Cross from building to building in the front

Other related articles:

Opening Scuttle and Skylight Returns

Parapet Walls

Coping Stones

Safely Traversing The Roof

Skylights

7-9-8 Ventilation Cut

Posted by on June 2, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Ladder Company Ops, rescues, RIT or FAST Operations, Roof Ops, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

“Chalk Talk” Forcible Entry Size-up – By: Andrew Brassard

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Growing up I played lacrosse, not the typical hockey that most Canadian kids played. I was fortunate enough to play at a very high level and had the privilege of playing for some great coaches.  They taught me not only about the game of lacrosse but great lessons about life that I carried over into the fire service. I had one coach that always said “you can’t learn this game in a book; you have to get out on the floor and play the game”. I could not agree more, to truly learn this job aggressive and realistic training along with experience is required. That being said my coach would also say “you want to be great at this game, be a student of the game”, I would see my Coach constantly looking at plays, statistics, equipment, etc. and he was a true student of the game and one of the best players ever to play box lacrosse. The point is that you need the knowledge and the understanding of what you’re doing to go along with your hands on training. We would practice some days until we would literally be throwing up on the floor, we would also spend some days in the class room in front of the chalk board going over plays. This was just as important to the development as us as lacrosse players and a team as going out and throwing the ball around the floor. We are going to look at a quick drill that you can do at your firehouse, this type of drill we call “chalk talk”.

Chalk talk drills are those types of drills that are great for rainy days, these types of drills are good because they often get great discussions going and it allows some of the senior members in the company to pass along their experiences and knowledge to the younger guys.  Some of the best training that I have ever done has been sitting at the kitchen table, around the tailboard of the rig, or sitting in front of a white board talking shop with a warm cup of coffee and the company of some great firemen. Not all training has to be blood, sweat, and tears, here is a good “rainy day” forcible entry drill that you can do with your crew.

 

Forcible Entry Size up Drill

A hard thing to practice and drill on is forcible entry size up. One thing I use to do was go out and take pictures of doors in our area, we would put them into a PowerPoint and then talk about methods for forcing entry into these buildings. It was great training and great discussions with guys.  We would talk about the different locks that they were dealing with and the methods and tools that they would use for getting in. Great debates, discussions, and arguments would steam from the slideshows. The problem with this method was that it was time consuming to go out gather the photos and then put the PowerPoint together, the training had great value it was just not something that could be done at the drop of a hat if the crew says “let’s do some training”. Also it does not take long for the guys to get tired of looking at and talking about the same doors over and over again.

To try to add some variety to the training and be able to put the training on I set out to make a series of props that would allow me to do quick, realistic, and optionless forcible entry size up training. I wanted to build a series of magnetic locks that could be stuck onto any regular metal door in the firehouse, out doing building inspections, etc. These locks would look exactly (or as close to it as possible) like their real lock counterparts. I took the basic type locks that me and the crews in my fire department would encounter during a forcible entry operation, these locks included:

  • Key in the Knob Locks
  • Tubular Deadbolts
  • Rim Locks
  • Rim Cylinder Guards 
  • Carriage Bolts (drop bars, slide bolts, etc.)

After I narrowed down the most common type locks that I wanted to simulate I made a trip to a local machining shop and had them mill out exact likenesses of a key in the knob lock and a couple of tubular deadbolts, because of the weight associated with making these locks out of metal PVC was used instead. On the backside of the locks a counter sunk hole was drilled and then a heavy duty magnet was secured into place using epoxy. To make the cylinder guards, 10 gauge metal plates were cut to the size of a standard cylinder guard. After the cylinder guards were cut ¼ inch carriage bolt heads were welded on the corners and then magnetic stripping was added to the backside of the guards. Finally, ¼ inch carriage bolts were taken and the threaded rod was cut off the back leaving just the heads, a hole was counter sunk into the back of the carriage bolt head and a magnate was held in place with epoxy. Having these magnet props allows you to gather the crew around any metal door in the firehouse and set up any forcible entry scenario your imagination can dream up. These drills at my firehouse have been invaluable; the guys at the station love it and get very engaged in the discussion about tactics and forcible entry size up.

The total cost of the magnet props was around $200, but if you are fairly handy or know someone who can use a machining lathe you could probably get them made for a lot less money.

This will be the first article in a series of articles that will give you great training ideas that you can do at your firehouse. If you want to train you can train.

Posted by on May 31, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

“Slipping Through the Cracks” – By: Josh Materi

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Does this look familiar?  Have you been to a fire where companies failed to remove bars off the windows?  I am sure by now we all understand how important this is to the safety of our members operating inside, much less the occupants that are cut off by fire.  So what’s the problem?   

Is it a system or operational problem?  

How strong are your fireground SOP’s, do they cover this important fireground task?  

Does your Training Division and Company Officers address these challenges?

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES

Without strong operational standard operating procedures (SOPs) how do we ensure critical tasks do not get overlooked?  SOPs function effectively because units are assigned specific tasks based on the occupancy and response order.  An example of a department’s SOPs states that one of the responsibilities of Truck Company  members assigned to position #4, Outside Vent firefighter (OV)  is to remove  bars off of the windows, this will ensure that this critical task will not get overlooked.  This also gives ownership of the important task to these specific members.  Communicating expectations will motivate the members to focus their training on their roles on the fireground.  If this member is unable to remove the bars for some reason it is his/her responsibility to communicate this to command.

TRAINING

Are the members of your department confident in their ability to successfully remove window bars in an efficient manner?  Or, is this an issue that tends to slip through the cracks?  This is a relatively easy task that is often overlooked when planning company drills. Take the time to develop props that will reflect the challenges you will face in your district.  Realistic challenges on the training ground will build confidence on the fireground, a confident firefighter is an aggressive firefighter and the fireground needs aggressive actions.

In the photo to the left you see a member standing next to a window on floor 1 at the rear of a multiple-dwelling apartment building.  The window bars are standing proud of the wall and are connected on two sides; they are also out of reach without a ground ladder.  This window will be attacked differently than a window that is recessed into brick and mortar connected on four sides.  The member going to the rear of this structure should have a metal saw, halligan bar, 6’Hook, and 24’ extension ladder.  Without the ground ladder this member would have a difficult time addressing the window bars, not to mention reaching the floor above for ventilation and rescue.  When providing horizontal ventilation, resist the urge to take the glass prior to removing the bars.  Operating the metal saw in smoke may choke out the saw and will obscure your visibility unnecessarily making the removal more challenging and may be delayed.

Failure to plan is planning to fail…

 

This is a great company drill; grab a hook, halligan bar, metal saw and walk around your district and discuss with the crew how you would attack different challenges.  Discuss multiple techniques; have a plan A, B, and C, make sure to include conventional techniques.  Never solely rely on one technique, especially when it requires the use of a saw.  On a side note, this is a great time to reinforce why we must run the saws at the start of every shift. 

When you get back to the firehouse bring out the new window prop you built on your days off and let the crew cut re-bar and flat stock in various positions both on and off a ground ladder.  This gives the crew a chance to handle the saw other than on the morning checks or on the fireground, for most of our members this is the only occasions we operate the metal saws.  Encourage your members to test some of the theories they discussed on the pre-fire walk.  Every company has that “idea guy”.  Give that member an opportunity to test some of those good ideas.

In this job the devil is certainly in the details. Discussing the plan with your members, laying out the expectations and giving them the opportunity to train repeatedly on what they are expected to accomplish is absolutely imperative for operating at a high level on the fireground.  Having a plan on who will be responsible for removal of the bars and repetitive task level training on the plan pays off.  It pays off for the citizens that we are sworn to protect and it will pay off for our members. 

Here is a great public service announcement from Miami Dade Fire Rescue that illustrates the importance of being prepared for the worst.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEoYt-4QqBI

Posted by on May 24, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Power Saw Decompression Valves – By: Andrew Brassard

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There are a tremendous amount of myths and misconceptions that circle in the fire service about the decompression valve on rotary saws.  Some of these myths and misconceptions can lead to a lack of saw performance and or and inability to put the saw into action when it is needed most.

What is a Decompression Valve?

Basically, the way that a decompression valve works is that it is a small one way valve that is bored into the saws combustion chamber. When the starter cord is pulled the recoil turns causing the piston to raise causing compression to build inside the cylinder.  This compression can make the saw hard to start due to the resistance of the compression on the saws recoil. The valve allows a bit of the compression to escape, this in turn allows for the saw to start easier. The valve is semi-automatic meaning that it must be depressed by the saw operator before starting, after the saw fires the decompression valve automatically closes.

The Myths and Misconceptions

One of the biggest myths and misconceptions about the decompression valve is whether or not it needs to be depressed every time you pull the starter cord or not.  The answer is absolutely YES!  Now the reason for this is not necessarily to make it easier for the saw operator because lets be honest, if you can’t pull the cord without pushing in the decompression valve because it is too hard…. Than riding around on a fire truck is probably not for you!  There are two reasons that you want to ensure that the decompression valve has been depressed every time:

  1. The first reason is that starting the saw without the decompression valve engaged is tremendously hard on the saws starter recoil, this can lead to the starter cord breaking during start up or the cord starting to become loose and it will tend to hang out of the recoil.
  2. The second reason is that if the saw is constantly turned over it is generating tremendous amounts of compression inside the compression chamber, that compression is constantly pushed into the closed valve. What will start to happen is the valve will wear down and start to leak compression all the time. This leak in the compression can cause serious performance issues with your saw, if you find that your saw is bogging down a lot during roof or forcible entry operations then this could be an issue with the compression of your saw.

Another myth and misconception about decompression valves is that regular maintenance is not required.  The decompression valve just like any other part of the saw requires maintenance to run in tip top shape.  It tends to be a part of the regular service of the saws that is often overlooked, forgotten, or completely ignored. Much like a spark plug the end of the decompression valve is inside the combustion chamber of the engine.  Carbon, oil, and other unburned material tend to collect on the end of the valve.  This collection of unburned carbon can cause problems in the valve opening and closing or in the seal of the valve; this valve not closing properly can leave the pathway open for the compression to constantly leak.  Again a leak due to an improper seal or a malfunction in the valve will greatly effect the saws performance.

Maintenance

Maintenance on the decompression valve should be done annually or when ever the spark plug is being changed. The best practice for the cleaning of the valve is to first clean the dust and debris from the general area of the valve.  The reason for this is you don’t want any of dirt or debris getting into the cylinder. Once the area has been cleaned the valve can be removed with a wrench, and a clean rag can be placed into the hole to prevent any dust, dirt, or debris from getting into the cylinder.  After the valve has been removed it can be soaked in gasoline or WD-40 to remove the oils and unburned carbon. Once the valve has been cleaned in can be reinstalled.

During a fire ground operation, the decompression valve not being pressed won’t ruin your saw. It is extremely important to ensure that the valve is engaged during normal daily checks and training. This will build good habits that will no doubt carry over to the fire ground.

These are a couple of small tips that can make a ton of difference with your saws on the fire ground. Saws are a mechanical piece of equipment and they need to be cared for, inspected, and maintained if you want them to run in top form.

 

 

Posted by on May 9, 2011 • Filed under: Brotherhood Topics, Email Drill Questions, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, rescues, RIT or FAST Operations, Roof Ops, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Why the Framing Square Sucks – By: Chris Collier

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The framing square doesn’t actually suck; it’s a great tool if you are building a house.  When it comes to forcible entry, the framing square has no place on the fireground.  The fire service has enough trouble with the basics.  Further diluting the basics with “whiz-bang” tricks like the framing square only accelerates the erosion of what basic skills we have left and instills false hope in tactics that will not always work. 

We all know that there are very very few always and never situations in the fire service.  The framing square technique will work sometimes and the irons will work almost always.  I’m much more comfortable with almost always than sometimes.  The irons also afford us many forcible entry options, a second, third, and in many cases more choices should our first attempt be unsuccessful.  The framing square is a single function tool and that function is only useful sometimes making the likelihood of the framing square technique being successful relatively low. 

Forcing an outward opening door that is only locked by panic hardware is easily done with the irons.  Most panic hardware has a spring loaded latch that is between ¾” and 1” long.  That latch is easily pulled from its receiver when the adz of the Halligan is driven between the door and the door jam.  In many instances the door can be forced at that point in the forcible entry operation.  If the door does not release at that point the tool can be driven in to capture both layers of the door as we would do normally.    When prying on the door at this point the spring loaded latch will either pull out of its receiver or the screws holding the panic hardware to the door will be stripped out of the door.  Long story short, doors locked only with panic hardware are not hard to force and are the only doors the framing square will work on. 

Any additional locking devices other than the panic hardware will make the framing square technique useless.  Business owners know that panic hardware is not a substantial locking device and commonly add additional locks to these doors whether legal or not.  You will not know that this technique will not work on any given door until you try it and when it fails, you will have to switch to the irons.  I would prefer to delete this step that doesn’t always work and start with the irons.  You will be bringing the irons anyway, I hope.  Even if the framing square technique is successful you will still need tools to use after you gain entry. 

Planning to use the framing square requires you to bring two extra tools with you, the square and the saw.  Many times this technique is discussed and planned to be used on the back door of a store or in a strip mall type configuration.  Depending on your department and apparatus you arrive on a saw may or may not be available.  If there are roll down gates I would much rather leave that saw in the front of the building to cut the gates.  If there are no gates that saw would be much better used on the roof or removing window bars than being used to force panic hardware that can be easily done with the irons. 

I’m sure someone is thinking the framing square would be a great way to force a door equipped with an arm-a-door lock.  You are right; it will work great… if that’s the only lock on the door.  If someone is going to spend $800 on an arm-a-door I would bet they have some pretty valuable property to protect.  It would not surprise me at all if there were additional locks on a door like that.  Additionally, from the exterior arm-a-door locks have the same bolt pattern as many drop bars.  I would hate to waste time plunge cutting the door and trying the framing square only to find a wood or metal drop bar instead.  These locks are just as substantial as a drop bar and just as easily defeated. 

My preferred method is to place the pike of the Halligan next to the bolt head and drive the pike through the door with a few hits from the axe.  Once this is done next to all four bolt heads I will set the adz between the door and the jam just like any other outward opening door.  Piercing the door next to each bolt head leaves only a small tab of metal holding the bolt in place.  When the door is pried with the Halligan the small metal tab will tear and the bold head will pull through the door, eliminating the locking device the bolts attached.  This technique will work for both the drop bar and the arm-a-door. 

Some doors equipped with panic hardware are also equipped with a time delay release.  This requires the panic hardware to be pressed for a prescribed amount of time before the door will be open.  Doors that have this feature usually also sound an alarm when the panic hardware is depressed.  This is allowed under fire and building codes in certain situations.  It is often allowed in facilities such as daycare centers and mercantile occupancies.  In a daycare setting this feature allows the employees a short period of time to react before a person (adult or child) who is unable to care for themselves due to age, or physical or mental disability can leave unsupervised.  In mercantile occupancies this feature allows security a short period of time to keep thieves from taking something and ducking out a side or rear door unnoticed.  The time between pressing the panic hardware and the door opening is regulated by local code and can be a minute or more in some instances.  This feature will also negate the effectiveness of the framing square by forcing the firefighter with the square to wait and see if the door opens before moving on to conventional forcible entry tactics. 

These are just a few of the reasons why I do not like the framing square.  In short, this technique is extremely prone to failure and requires extra tools.  I like to stick with what I know will work so when I am confronted with a tough door it will not be my first time forcing a door as it may be if you forced every door previously with the framing square.

Please feel free to comment with your questions or suggestions.  Comments must be signed with your first and last name or department name.  Unsigned comments will not be posted in an effort to prevent useless bashing and keep the discussion focused on learning.

Posted by on May 2, 2011 • Filed under: Brotherhood Topics, Email Drill Questions, fire-prevention-education, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Search, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Replacement Doors

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Replacement or insert doors can pose a challenge when forcing entry.  These doors come with a thin frame around them that is inserted into the existing door jam.  This alleviates the need to replace the entire door jam and is much quicker.  When forcing entry on these doors it is imperative that the tool be set between the door and the replacement frame (red arrow), not in the seem between the replacement frame and the door jam (white arrow). 

When gapping the door with the adz of the halligan be sure to place the tool to the door about 8 inches from the door jam and slide the tool along the door to the jam.  This will ensure that the tool is flat against the door and help ensure it is in the correct position.  If you learn to do this when conditions are good it will become habit and happen naturally when forcing doors in a limited vision environment.  The same procedure can be done with the fork end of the halligan after the door has been gapped. 

Posted by on April 19, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged: