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Beyond the Academy Video Training Series – Engine Operations: Hydraulic Ventilation

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Check out the newest Beyond the Academy Video Training Series. This one is entitled "Engine Company Operations: Hydraulic Ventilation with a Smooth-bore/Solid Stream Nozzle.

Many fire service members believe that a fog nozzle is the only nozzle that can be used for ventilation, and "prefer" a fog nozzle for that reason. These techniques show that a solid stream nozzle can be used as a hydraulic ventilation tool as well.  We do not entertain the "Smooth-bore vs. Fog" nozzle debate, but we do have our preference.

As Tom Brennan stated when asked about his preference: "A smooth-bore nozzle doesn't make a terrible engine company a good engine company, and a fog nozzle doesn't make a good engine company a terrible engine company!"

Regardless of which one you use, know your tools, the capabilities and the drawbacks. 

Feel free to discuss on this blog.

Tool Modifications 2.0 – The 8 Pound Force Axe – By: Shane Klug

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February 2011, I transferred to a ladder company, my first time being assigned to a truck.  Detroit ladder trucks typically have 6-pound pick head axes and 8-pound sledge hammers on them.  I tried both of them on the roof, and my tool of choice became the 6-pound pick head axe. I managed to get my hands on an 8-pound pick head axe and gave that a try. While the extra weight was great for smashing through roofs, the balance was VERY nose heavy, which made it harder to control and also very uncomfortable to carry.  Over the summer I was able to attend the Brotherhood Instructors Forcible Entry Ops class held in Independence Twp Michigan, where I used an 8-pound flathead axe, specifically the fire hooks unlimited 8-pound force axe.  I really liked the way the axe was balanced.  It was easy to control when swinging (in the forcible entry class) and seemed easy to carry.  Sometime after the class I purchased my own to use at work.  I decided to make some modifications, but with a twist, compared to what I had seen in the Brotherhood Instructor class.  First, I wanted to try and put the “notch” that allows the halligan forks to marry with the axe in a location that put both tool handles together, so I could get my hand around both tools. In Detroit, most front door forcible entry is performed by engine companies, so for me, I won’t be carrying a halligan much. So the more important modification I wanted was some kind of overstrike protection for my axe, as it would be used mainly for venting the peak roof of single family dwellings.  I had seen small sections of angle iron welded on the bottom of the axe head on the axes used in Gary Fire Dept (Gary, IN).  But they were welded with some space between the angle irons and the handle itself. In my opinion, this location for the over strike protection made it very difficult to carry the axe, especially while climbing up ladders etc.  So I had a friend TIG weld on some sections of angle iron below the head of the axe, but positioned them right against the handle of the axe, following the axe handle contour.  For those of you who have used an axe on a roof to smash a vent hole, you know that often times the axe head will smash through the roof deck and stop on the handle itself, over time break the axe handle right below the axe head itself.  Hopefully this modification will add some life to the tool for me.

 

I know this axe is called an 8-pound force axe, but I think the name sells this tool short.  As I mentioned above, I don’t do the majority of forcible entry, as the engine companies often do the front door and Detroit truck companies only carry one halligan, which is mainly carried by the boss of the truck.  My main objective as a deckie on the back end is to make the roof and ventilate. The vast majority of the time, I’m using this axe to open single family dwelling roofs.  When used in tandem with a saw (chain or rotary), I can use the flat side of the axe to “turn” the boards over on the rafters after they have been cut.  Of if there is no saw available (or the roof doesn’t lend itself to using a saw), I can use the blade side of the axe to start a hole (especially on roof decks that have multiple layers of shingles), then can flip over to continue smashing the roof boards.

       All in all, this axe is fantastic for forcible entry and makes a great tool for vertical ventilation. With the addition of the over strike protection, hopefully the tool will have a long service life opening roofs!

Coordinated Ventilation – Part II by Nate DeMarse

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I stumbled upon a couple videos that drive home points made in the earlier Coordinated Ventilation post. These videos clearly show answers to previously asked questions, and bring up some new discussion tips as well. This is precisely how we should be training at drills and training burns. I don't know where this department is, but they are a class act in training!

Video #1 – The OV Position:

In the first video, we see an Outside Ventilation (OV) firefighter in the correct position to horizontally vent the building opposite the attack line's advance. Note that at the very beginning of the video, the Nozzle Team is advancing the hose line THROUGH THE FRONT DOOR and to the seat of the fire. The door is forced, and they are moving in when the windows are taken.

The firefighter is off to one side of the window, and takes the window located furthest from him first. This assures that he will be able to vent both windows without delay. If the window closest to the firefighter is vented first, and fire vents from the opening the second (furthest window) may have to be abandoned. This is especially true if operating on a portable ladder or fire escape. 

Video #2 – Points & Pointers:

I am not certain, but I think the video below is another angle of the same video above (a very rare occurance in our profession). If it is not the same fire, we are going to use it like it is for the purposes of driving home a point.

As I stated in the comments in Part I, "We should also wait if the line is delayed in getting into position, charged and READY TO MAKE THE PUSH on the fire. There is a vast difference in a line being there, a line being charged, and all of the members masked up and ready to push in." This video starts with a charged attack line, but the door hasn't been forced. If the OV takes the windows prematurely, this fire will continue to spread and grow as the line is not ready to advance. After entry is gained, you can hear the officer telling the OV to "take that glass".

Entering the Building Side-Note:  At the :35 second mark, you will see the camera move to the front stoop of the house. Note the visibility at the floor level! You can see nearly ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE HOUSE. Yet nearly every single firefighter that entered the building entered either standing or slight crouched with their head in the smoke, unable to see ANYTHING! I will reiterate at this point that I am not beating up on this department, THIS HAPPENS EVERYWHERE!!

Take a second after the door is forced to put your face piece directly on the floor and look UNDER the smoke. This requires you to get on your knees to accomplish. The nice thing about taking a look at the floor level is that you have to physically, consciously make a decision to stand-up to enter after you look.

Here are a few other benefits that stem from taking a few seconds to get low and take a look:

  • You allow the heat and super-heated gases that have built up in the sealed building a few seconds to "blow" and push over your head. This in turn will cause the smoke to lift off of the floor, and allow for the following:
    • You will be able to see a victim lying on the floor 10 feet or further inside the doorway, at that point you can say you conducted a rescue instead of tripping over someone and pretending that you rescued them! The Medal Ceremony will sound supurb, but you will know the truth!
    • You will be able to get a room, floor or apartment layout.
    • You will be able to see the glow of the fire on the floor, or the fire itself. You will know that it is on the right side of the hall, three doorways down.
    • You wlll see the large hole in the floor five feet inside the house and not fall into the basement and promptly call a "Mayday" within seconds of entering the building.

You will know all of this information at the front door, without walking (not searching) blindly. Then, because you are already on your knees conducting this vital size-up skill, you will enter the building safely on your knees, crawling towards your objective(s). When we couple the skills listed in this side-note with the OV performing those tasks in the correct position and the correct time, you will have the opportunity to gather vital information before entering.

THESE TASKS ALLOW US TO BE AGGRESSIVE AND SAFE! 
(and yes, those words can be used together)!

Forcible Entry Side-Note: The Forcible Entry team did a good job on the door. If you look closely, on the fourth swing the Striking FF nearly misses high with the axe. With hand placement so close to the axe-head, just a little more of a miss could have caused a crush injury. Believe it or not, in our travels this is the most common cause of injury in forcible entry (almost always resulting in at least one broken finger). To remedy that concern, This video (one of our first created nearly 2 years ago) shows safe striking techniques. Additionally, Brotherhood Instructors, LLC axes now have our company markings (colored electrical tape) 6"-7" below the head of the axe. Any firefighter using our axes know that if they place their top hand where the tape is, their hands are in the safe zone. Again, this is a very common injury and very rarely do we get a chance to catch forcible entry tools and members practicing their craft.

I think this fire department is doing a great job in getting their training done as we operate. Far too may training burns just walk members through the motions, leaving them with a false sense of security of what a real fire will be like (i.e: setting themselves up for failure). This department has their members on the radio, and conducting coordinated ventilation and fire attack. These videos left some open some great discussion points using realistic training and errors that occur on EVERY fireground!

Feel free to post comments, questions or concerns. We are all here to learn so let the learning commence!

Respectfully,
Nate DeMarse
Co-Owner, Brotherhood Instructors, LLC.

 

Coordinated Ventilation

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Take a look at these two videos for a great example of coordinated ventilation.  The outside vent (OV) firefighter on the fire escape waits until the line is putting water on the fire to take the windows.  Doing so helps the engine make the advance into the fire area a little easier.  Waiting until the line is ready will ensure that you do not prematurely feed the fire additional oxygen and possibly trap firefighters searching ahead of the line. 

 

 

More About Nozzles – By: Mike Kirby

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This is a debate that plagues the fire service. Most of the personal "experience" or "knowledge" from this debate stems from lack of knowledge or understanding of the simple principle that GPM (properly applied) puts out fires. Some believe that pressure is what we should be concentrating on. Firefighters start out in their "firefighter" schools, where ever that may be, and learn about the nozzle they have there and then go to work somewhere and only learn about the nozzle they use there or the one that that person tells them is the end-all-be-all of the fire service. Few firefighters are aware of what is available to them, what each one actually flows under live conditions, heat absorption characteristics, etc. If all you have ever used is a combination nozzle, you have probably never flowed a smooth bore hooked to a GPM gauge to see the flow and experience the difference in pull back pressure.
 
The problems with all new tools / nozzles / methods of going to work is that it is change and fire fighters have to be more resistant to change than any other culture or group of people on this planet.

We need to make sure we educate all of our fire fighters on what they are carrying and how much water it puts out at varying pressures and with various lengths of hose. I'm not a personal fan of the adjustable or combination nozzle whether its a fixed gallonage or automatic. This nozzle has been used in the 5 fire departments I have worked for. Its generally not the tool, but how you use it I always say. Fires still go out in these 5 places. Some maybe not as effectively as others due primarily to GPM delivered. I personally prefer the smooth bore nozzle. It is simple, won't clog and is inexpensive. Next I prefer the vindicator. Both the smooth bore and vindicator can put out a very high GPM flow from an 1-3/4" fire line. One costs about $150 and the other around $800. The CFD recently has started phasing in an Elkhart Chief 250 gpm @ 50 psi to replace the outdated Task Force Tips. The TFT's were automatic type nozzles with a complicated pressure control mechanism. These nozzles just don't work right anymore due to the age, wear and lack of maintenance on the internal pressure control mechanism. The Chief nozzle selected flows comparable to the Vindicator, but gives the "hard head" fire fighter the option to have a fog or straight stream. The reasons the "hard heads" don't like the vindicator ring true for a smooth bore as well. "I need the "fog" stream to ventilate". We made sure we found a combination nozzle that allowed them to have fog for ventilation and other scenarios that also flowed a lot of GPM from a 1-3/4" fire line.
 
I'm an advocate of I don't care what you or your department uses, just know its limitations, how much water it can put out with it in GPM and how it reacts to line kinks, long lays, reduced pressure situations, etc. You need to do this with a flow meter. If you cant get a flow meter, ask a sales representative to bring a nozzle out for you to demo and flow and while flowing that nozzle, flow your current nozzle alongside of it.
GPM properly and rapidly applied puts out fires. There is no greater live saving action on the fire ground than to put out the fire and stop all the bad things going on inside the building. (sorry truckers….)
 
Mike Kirby- Cinncinati Fire Department Engine Co. 12

Changing Saw Blades – Diamonds are a Firemen’s best friend too – By Grant Light

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Over the past few years there have been some big changes in the type of circular saw blades used by fire departments across the country.  In the past almost all of the metal and concrete cutting was accomplished with fiber wheels made of a sacrificial material such as aluminum oxide or silicon carbide.  The biggest problem with these blades was that they got smaller as you cut, causing you to change blades during a rescue and at times not allowing you the depth of cut needed to get the job done.  The potential for blades to fly apart during operations was also a big safety issue.  You had one blade for metal, one for concrete and at times one for stone.  Just that fact alone required a quick decision about the work to be done and in some instances quick blade changes were required before cutting could begin.

Just like everything else in the fire service, saw blades have changed dramatically as new technologies have moved from the construction industry to the rescue services.  Diamonds are where that technology has taken us.  Many different types of diamond blades are available but we will look at two, Segmented and Vacuum Braised.  Segmented blades have a diamond impregnated segment attached to a steel wheel.  They were originally designed for cutting concrete with imbedded rebar.  They moved to the fire service through US&R teams and are used by many companies to cut metal during forcible entry operations.

The newest additions to diamond technology are the Vacuum Braised blades.  They have very high quality diamonds attached directly to the steel wheel.  This removes any chance of a diamond segment coming off the wheel and becoming a projectile during operations.  These blades can cut an extremely wide range of products such as Hardened locks & shackles, hockey puck locks, security gates, re-bar, chain-link fence, stucco, concrete, block, brick, stone, asphalt, wood, drywall, car doors, ductile iron, cast iron, angle iron, black iron, schedule 40 &80 steel pipe, plastic pipe, 2x4s and plywood.  These blades will do all this without reducing the depth of cut and outlasting fiber wheels 100:1 or more.  During training at a scrap yard we cut through a fiberglass roof on a conversion van, which was backed up by 4 layers of OSB plywood and then turned and cut the class 3-trailer hitch off the rear of the vehicle.   We were using a Desert Diamond vacuum braised blade and it didn’t skip a beat.  The ability to grab a circular saw and cut just about anything you encounter is a welcome change from the blades we used just a few years ago.  These new blades have a higher upfront cost but their ability to cut a wide range of materials, remain a constant diameter and outlast any forcible entry cutting scenario you might encounter make them a smart choice as you move forward into the future of circular saw blades.

Hit, Hit, Hit Part 2 – By: Andrew Brassard

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In the last article we talked about ensuring that the striking firefighter has their top hand at least 6" down from the head of the axe.  This is to ensure that any missed strikes don't crush the striking firefighters fingers.

Now we are going to talk about where to place your bottom hand and how to position your body for optimal striking during conventional forcible entry operations.

Just like the placement of your top hand, your bottom hand placement can be critical to a smooth forcible entry operation. For some reason, lots of firefighters want to choke their bottom hand up to around the middle of the axe.  This grip can lead to problems during forcible entry operations. What tends to happen when using this type of grip is that as the striking firefighter swings the axe, the butt end of the handle digs into the firefighter holding the halligans leg. The momentum of the axe being swung usually doesn't stop once the butt end of the axe handle bumps the firefighters leg.  The momentum tends to carry the axe through the swing but drastically off target. This obviously can lead to missed hits and the potential of injuring a member.  Instead, place your bottom hand down at the bottom of the axe just above the fawns foot. This will allow you to be more aware of where the butt end of the axe handle is.

 

Don't be a Fool…. Cross your Tools
Another very common striking  mistake is not crossing your tools. The optimal striking position for the axe is to have it crossing the adz of the halligan and not in line with it. The reason for crossing the tools is that it increases your striking surface to allow for small inaccuracies. With the axe in line with the adz it leaves very little margin for error for the striking firefighter, if he is off the mark by only 1" this could cause a glancing hit on the adz and cause the halligan firefighter to be struck. If the axe and the adz of halligan are crossed it will increase your margin of error by giving you 2" up and down and 3" left to right leeway in your swing.

Keep your Eye on the Ball
When I was a young kid my father was teaching me how to catch a baseball and the first thing he said was "keep your eye on the ball", this principle applies the same to forcing a door. You should always try to make yourself eye level with the adz, this will make your swing much more accurate. Depending on the location of the lock being forced, you may have to take a knee, crouch, or you may be standing straight up, but for the majority of locks that are located in the middle of the door the striking firefighter should take position on their knees.

These small tips will help you be more proficient during you forcible entry operations.

Until next time, stay safe.

Cutting the Locks

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Brotherhood Instructors believes in having multiple plans in mind for any forcible entry situation.  A back-up plan for forcing an outward opening door can be cutting the locks.  We prefer to gap the door away from the frame and cut the throw of the lock as opposed to cutting the door, known as the "bird beak cut".  The bird beak cut seldom works since it is very difficult to cut completely through the door due to the door frame getting in the way. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you decide to cut the locks, gap the door away from the jamb using the halligan or axe.  Start the saw blade spinning at a low RPM to make a groove in the bolt of the lock and then throttle to full RPM to complete the cut.  This is an especially helpful technique when dealing with foot bolts.  Having the power saw set up in the outboard position will allow the saw to better cut the foot bolts.  Click here for our previous blog on foot bolts.  Be sure when cutting the bolt of any lock to cut as close to the door as possible.  This will ensure that the lock can not re-latch once the tool holding the gap has been removed. 

 

 

Brotherhood Instructors class in Wildwood NJ

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Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. will be presenting our 8-hour hands-on "Beyond the Academy: Engine & Ladder Company Operations" class on Thursday September 15, 2011.  This course is hosted by the Cape May County Fire Chiefs Assn. – Click here for registration information!  Sign up now, don't get left out!

Click here to see pictures from last years class!

Beyond the Academy: Engine & Ladder Company Operations consists of parts of our Beyond the Academy: Engine Company Operations & Beyond the Academy: Ladder Company Operations classes.  Check out these videos for a quick overview of the course material.

 

 

2012-04-21 – Sergeant Bluff, IA – BtA Machinery Rescue – Flier & Registration Form

Beeton MIM

Fergus MIM[1]

Mt Holly Flyer2

Antonia Flyer2

Course Catalog – Email Version

Checking for Extension

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Firefighters assigned to the roof play a critical role in numerous fire ground tasks.  Vertical ventilation, building information, and checking for fire extension to the cockloft or attic space are just a few of these tasks.  Vertical ventilation and checking for extension can often be done together by taking a skylight and opening the skylight returns.  Click here to see our previous video on that topic.  When the roof is pitched or there is a void space along the parapet fire can easily extend through these spaces. 

Many times the roof is pitched downwards from the front of the building to the rear in order to allow drainage at the back of the building.  If there is a fire in the rear of the building and the roof is pitched downward from front to rear an inspection hole should be made towards the front of the building.  Throughout the operation monitor this inspection hole for heat, smoke, and fire.  If fire extension is found or expected, enlarge the opening and radio the findings to your company officer or incident commander.  This further illustrates the importance of checking for fire in the cockloft immediately inside the entrance of a commercial building if no one is assigned to the roof.

Roof void spaces are a common path of fire travel.  Firefighters assigned to the roof should place inspection cuts in void areas if there is any suspicion of fire in the cockloft or voids.  Triangular void spaces along the parapet are very common in residential and commercial buildings.  Usually these void spaces conceal structural members used to support the parapet.  If fire is found in this area be sure that no one is on the sidewalk below the parapet.  Here are a few pictures of this construction feature courtesy of Keith Morse from the Woodland Twp. NJ Fire Dept.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

See more from our Beyond the Academy: Ladder Company Operations class

Video – The Quick Louver – By: Jamie Morelock

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Check out the latest addition to the Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. Video Training Series.  Instructor Jamie Morelock reviews the vertical ventilation tactic known as the louver cut.

Why Search That Building – By: Scott Brown

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We respond to building fires daily in the fire service and the assignment of primary search has taken a back seat.  Primary search is a critical benchmark and essential task to be completed.  This task should be simultaneously completed with line placement and proper ventilation!  Remember that line placement and primary search save lives; isn’t that why we are here?  It is not justifiable to state that either is more or less important on the fire ground.  Manpower now a days is difficult to find, but is it? We are expected now to do more with less with all of the emphasis on EMS. Only we can make this change, by us stepping up and making a stand for what is right for our safety and the communities’ safety. You have to get certain duties completed on the fire ground, but more importantly they must be completed in a timely manner. Waiting to be assigned or not starting a primary search will hinder the true operations and meaning of the duty at hand. If this is how you operate, then maybe we should revise the terminology to body recovery search.

Where do we start and what do we look for?  First thing first; SIZE-UP! You can not have the same search thought process for a single family dwelling as you do a 200X200 commercial building!! Your size-up will tell you a lot of information on what is going on inside the building, and give you indicators on where you need to be first to make most of your time. Size-up for a primary search is essential and needs to be completed on the transmission of the alarm. Building construction, we need to search according to the building type. The days of fire school searching, hand on ankle, and always doing a right hand should be gone. We are not going to complete any kind of search in a timely manner. Line placement, with out a line placed and into operations we will not be as effective doing a primary search. Remember, the truck company is only as aggressive as the engine company. Fire conditions, this will tell us how far we can go with out putting ourselves into unnecessary harm. Remember, there is no reason to search a room that is on fire. If we can’t take the heat with all of our PPE, then what chance do they have? So take your risk benefit and weigh it out.

What if every one is reported “out”; well how sure are you? Maybe a neighbor attempted to go inside and look for their neighbor thinking that they are still inside. Yes, that has happened, and can easily happen to us right now today. Is the structure clear until we clear it? It would be heart wrenching to know a victim possibly had a chance, but we decided not to commit or worse not complete this task until after the fire is knocked down. Remember, your size-up will give you good indicators for savable victims.  Gaining all of the essential information will dictate how advance you will commit for savable victims.     

What do we look for once inside?  YOUR NEXT EXIT!!  This is for you and your members.  We spoke about the size-up on the exterior, but don’t forget about your interior size-up. Size-up everything you do, building lay-out, smoke condition, heat condition and listen to the radio for other benchmarks.  These items make or break your commitment to the interior.  This is where we see a lot of firefighters get into urgent and/or mayday situations.

The other reason that we search is to find the fire, if you have done this there are things that need to be completed. First attempt to check the fire, by closing the door, maybe hit it with the water can if it is a must. Remember though, it is not there for that reason. Then, get on the radio and call the engine’s officer and tell them where the fire is. You can relay, how far of a stretch, up / down stairs, which side the structure. Make the line’s job a little easier; they will make your job easier. The engine should be searching the fire room or rooms. You can also secure the utilities if you happen to come across them.

Primary search should have a minimum of one firefighter and one officer. But, this can be building dependant and life hazard dependant. Maybe we need to send the entire company inside to get the job done? All to be decided on your size-up, as you arrive on the scene. Tools are essential and should be mandatory that all personal have the basics. I will start off with the irons; we need to gain entry for us and the line. Water can, this is not to be cowboys and put the fire out, but is 2.5 gallons of water for our safety. You will be amazed what a water-can will do. Yes, this is heavy 25-30 lbs, but the value out weighs the true weight. Remember, that you do not need to carry the water can, when you are completing the search, but you can drag it. 6’ Hook, this can provide an excellent extension of your arm for searching. The hook can also assist in providing relief to companies trying to make that final push down the hallway and are being hindered by heat. Thermal Imaging Camera, this has many options, look for victims, check fire conditions, navigation, structural conditions, and accountability of crew. Remember that the TIC has faults and is man-made and will fail. The TIC also has many false positives, and you still must be aware of your surrounding the old fashion way. Some additional tools to consider for large square footage buildings, but can be used in any type of building. Rope bag, my area runs 200ft of search rope.  This is due to our normal first due area, and yours should reflect the same. Hydra – ram or Bunny tool can be used if forcing a large amount of doors, remember your basic forcible entry skills. Yes this is a lot of equipment to carry, but remember if you get where you are going and there is no need to utilize the hydra-ram or rope bag; then place that tool in a safe-refuge. In all these tools are just the basics and give you good start. I have assumed that PPE , radio, flashlight(s), door chocks are already in place with you.

Starting your search, use the irons (if needed) to make entry into the most appropriate door to begin your search and for line placement. Sow down for just a few seconds, let the building breathe.  This could show what the conditions are inside! Before you enter the building / door bend over and place your face on the ground and look in, you might get a full view of the layout of the room. You might find a victim, and be able to go right to them. Begin your search using the left or right hand method, but there is no reason to search directly behind each other. Spread out, but staying within voice range, spread your body out. Remember, we are not looking for pennies, we are looking for bodies. There is no reason to search the top of a dresser, or behind a TV. Where are we going to find victims, in bed, closets (kids) and the path of an exit way. Yes, there will always be exceptions to the rule, but remember PRIMARY SEARCH is to be quick. Check for bunk beds, remember to look around, is there toys? Maybe you are in a kids’ room. A nice bench mark on the fire ground is 4-5 minutes into the search. What is your status, are you completed? Are you delayed and command needs to get more search companies?

Primary search needs to be a quick and thorough. This assignment should be automatic, and companies on the first alarm should know that they are assigned to do this, so they are prepared with the most important tool, their brain. Bench mark at the 5 minute mark, most residential searches can be completed in this time. You can do this with aggressive hands-on training, and knowledge. Take your tools with you every time, if you do this, when the real work comes in, it will be second nature to carry everything. Also take care of your tools, clean them, and maintain them. All this can be done at truck check, at the start of your shift morning or night. If you don’t do a search in a timely manner find out why, is it manpower, lack of training or some other issue. Many of these items can be addressed with a little bit of research. If you are not beginning primary searches upon arrival and you are waiting 20-25 minutes to do so, it is not a primary search. You are expected by your tax-payer to perform these functions, don’t let them down. Because you don’t work for a “Big city”, is no excuse.

Bevel to the… door? jamb?

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The debate among firefighters over the correct way to set the halligan is as common as the age old smooth-bore vs. fog nozzle debate.  Both techniques, much like the nozzles, have their time and place.  Setting the halligan with the bevel of the fork towards the door is the correct and most efficient technique in most cases.  The pictures below speak for themselves and illustrate why having the bevel towards the door is advantageous.  It's simple, more spread and a better chance of forcing the door without having to employ additional steps and techniques. 

3 inches of spread can be achieved when the halligan is set with the bevel of the fork towards the door and the tool is pushed flush to the door.

2.25 inches of spread can be achieved when the halligan is set with the bevel of the fork towards the jamb.

So why do some firefighters choose to set the tool with the bevel towards the jamb?  The biggest reasons are lack of training and because it is easier.  There is no doubt that the tool will set easier with the bevel facing the jamb.  The easiest way to do something is usually not the best.  It takes more training and practice to be able to "steer" the forks between the door and the jamb with the bevel towards the door.  When the fork is set with the bevel towards the jamb less spread cab be achieved for two reasons.  First the natural curve of the fork provided additional spread when used with the bevel towards the jamb.  Second, the halligan can not be pushed flush with the door in this orientation due to the adz coming in contact with the door. 

As stated above, using the halligan with the bevel towards the jamb does have its place – actually two places.  The first instance that may necessitate this orientation of the tool is an extremely tight door.  If the door is too tight to set the tool with the bevel towards the door, flip the tool over and get back to work.  The second instance is an odd hallway configuration.  If the adz of the halligan is obstructed by a wall, railing, or some other hindrance the tool can be flipped over to bypass the obstruction. 

Only proper practice will improve technique and effectiveness.  Practicing incorrectly doesn't help and often instills false hope and a false sense of security in tactics that will not work in the real world.  When practicing forcible entry techniques, practice with the fork both ways while keeping in mind that the bevel should be towards the door most of the time.

Covered Skylights – By: Chris Collier

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We have done numerous articles about skylights, here is another.  These building features can be an asset to firefighters assigned to the roof as a means for quick ventilation.  Their location, many times above the interior stairs, makes them an ideal vertical ventilation location.  Relieving the interior stairs of smoke will help civilians evacuate, possibly increase visibility for the forcible entry team, and allow the engine to stretch to the proper location a little easier. 

Conversely, skylights can be dangerous to an unknowing firefighter, especially on a smokey roof.  Leaking skylights are many times replaced by removing the skylight and roofing over the area that was once the skylight.  If you are lucky this area of the roof will be raised and it will be obvious that this situation exists.  If not, the skylight can be covered over flush with the rest of the roof, increasing the danger. 

The quality of this patch job is where our concern lies.  If this area is properly framed out, covered with plywood, and then roofed over we are in pretty good shape.  Often these openings are covered with only a thin piece of plywood with no framing underneath and then covered with roofing material.  As you can see in this photo the once skylight has been framed out with 2×4" and then covered with plywood and rolled roofing. 

A few roof safety tips:

  • Be cautious of any area that appears to have been patched

Any patched area can be hazardous, not only roofed over skylights.  Patches normally indicate an area that was leaking.  The roof surface has been repaired to stop the leak but the water damage to the structural components beneath can not be seen. 

  • Avoid walking across roofed over skylights
  • If you can't see, crawl
  • Cross from building to building in the front

Other related articles:

Opening Scuttle and Skylight Returns

Parapet Walls

Coping Stones

Safely Traversing The Roof

Skylights

7-9-8 Ventilation Cut

“Slipping Through the Cracks” – By: Josh Materi

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Does this look familiar?  Have you been to a fire where companies failed to remove bars off the windows?  I am sure by now we all understand how important this is to the safety of our members operating inside, much less the occupants that are cut off by fire.  So what’s the problem?   

Is it a system or operational problem?  

How strong are your fireground SOP’s, do they cover this important fireground task?  

Does your Training Division and Company Officers address these challenges?

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES

Without strong operational standard operating procedures (SOPs) how do we ensure critical tasks do not get overlooked?  SOPs function effectively because units are assigned specific tasks based on the occupancy and response order.  An example of a department’s SOPs states that one of the responsibilities of Truck Company  members assigned to position #4, Outside Vent firefighter (OV)  is to remove  bars off of the windows, this will ensure that this critical task will not get overlooked.  This also gives ownership of the important task to these specific members.  Communicating expectations will motivate the members to focus their training on their roles on the fireground.  If this member is unable to remove the bars for some reason it is his/her responsibility to communicate this to command.

TRAINING

Are the members of your department confident in their ability to successfully remove window bars in an efficient manner?  Or, is this an issue that tends to slip through the cracks?  This is a relatively easy task that is often overlooked when planning company drills. Take the time to develop props that will reflect the challenges you will face in your district.  Realistic challenges on the training ground will build confidence on the fireground, a confident firefighter is an aggressive firefighter and the fireground needs aggressive actions.

In the photo to the left you see a member standing next to a window on floor 1 at the rear of a multiple-dwelling apartment building.  The window bars are standing proud of the wall and are connected on two sides; they are also out of reach without a ground ladder.  This window will be attacked differently than a window that is recessed into brick and mortar connected on four sides.  The member going to the rear of this structure should have a metal saw, halligan bar, 6’Hook, and 24’ extension ladder.  Without the ground ladder this member would have a difficult time addressing the window bars, not to mention reaching the floor above for ventilation and rescue.  When providing horizontal ventilation, resist the urge to take the glass prior to removing the bars.  Operating the metal saw in smoke may choke out the saw and will obscure your visibility unnecessarily making the removal more challenging and may be delayed.

Failure to plan is planning to fail…

 

This is a great company drill; grab a hook, halligan bar, metal saw and walk around your district and discuss with the crew how you would attack different challenges.  Discuss multiple techniques; have a plan A, B, and C, make sure to include conventional techniques.  Never solely rely on one technique, especially when it requires the use of a saw.  On a side note, this is a great time to reinforce why we must run the saws at the start of every shift. 

When you get back to the firehouse bring out the new window prop you built on your days off and let the crew cut re-bar and flat stock in various positions both on and off a ground ladder.  This gives the crew a chance to handle the saw other than on the morning checks or on the fireground, for most of our members this is the only occasions we operate the metal saws.  Encourage your members to test some of the theories they discussed on the pre-fire walk.  Every company has that “idea guy”.  Give that member an opportunity to test some of those good ideas.

In this job the devil is certainly in the details. Discussing the plan with your members, laying out the expectations and giving them the opportunity to train repeatedly on what they are expected to accomplish is absolutely imperative for operating at a high level on the fireground.  Having a plan on who will be responsible for removal of the bars and repetitive task level training on the plan pays off.  It pays off for the citizens that we are sworn to protect and it will pay off for our members. 

Here is a great public service announcement from Miami Dade Fire Rescue that illustrates the importance of being prepared for the worst.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEoYt-4QqBI

Video – Roof Operations: Openting Scuttle & Skylight Returns

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Ventilating Skylights 12/26/2010

Power Saw Decompression Valves – By: Andrew Brassard

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There are a tremendous amount of myths and misconceptions that circle in the fire service about the decompression valve on rotary saws.  Some of these myths and misconceptions can lead to a lack of saw performance and or and inability to put the saw into action when it is needed most.

What is a Decompression Valve?

Basically, the way that a decompression valve works is that it is a small one way valve that is bored into the saws combustion chamber. When the starter cord is pulled the recoil turns causing the piston to raise causing compression to build inside the cylinder.  This compression can make the saw hard to start due to the resistance of the compression on the saws recoil. The valve allows a bit of the compression to escape, this in turn allows for the saw to start easier. The valve is semi-automatic meaning that it must be depressed by the saw operator before starting, after the saw fires the decompression valve automatically closes.

The Myths and Misconceptions

One of the biggest myths and misconceptions about the decompression valve is whether or not it needs to be depressed every time you pull the starter cord or not.  The answer is absolutely YES!  Now the reason for this is not necessarily to make it easier for the saw operator because lets be honest, if you can’t pull the cord without pushing in the decompression valve because it is too hard…. Than riding around on a fire truck is probably not for you!  There are two reasons that you want to ensure that the decompression valve has been depressed every time:

  1. The first reason is that starting the saw without the decompression valve engaged is tremendously hard on the saws starter recoil, this can lead to the starter cord breaking during start up or the cord starting to become loose and it will tend to hang out of the recoil.
  2. The second reason is that if the saw is constantly turned over it is generating tremendous amounts of compression inside the compression chamber, that compression is constantly pushed into the closed valve. What will start to happen is the valve will wear down and start to leak compression all the time. This leak in the compression can cause serious performance issues with your saw, if you find that your saw is bogging down a lot during roof or forcible entry operations then this could be an issue with the compression of your saw.

Another myth and misconception about decompression valves is that regular maintenance is not required.  The decompression valve just like any other part of the saw requires maintenance to run in tip top shape.  It tends to be a part of the regular service of the saws that is often overlooked, forgotten, or completely ignored. Much like a spark plug the end of the decompression valve is inside the combustion chamber of the engine.  Carbon, oil, and other unburned material tend to collect on the end of the valve.  This collection of unburned carbon can cause problems in the valve opening and closing or in the seal of the valve; this valve not closing properly can leave the pathway open for the compression to constantly leak.  Again a leak due to an improper seal or a malfunction in the valve will greatly effect the saws performance.

Maintenance

Maintenance on the decompression valve should be done annually or when ever the spark plug is being changed. The best practice for the cleaning of the valve is to first clean the dust and debris from the general area of the valve.  The reason for this is you don’t want any of dirt or debris getting into the cylinder. Once the area has been cleaned the valve can be removed with a wrench, and a clean rag can be placed into the hole to prevent any dust, dirt, or debris from getting into the cylinder.  After the valve has been removed it can be soaked in gasoline or WD-40 to remove the oils and unburned carbon. Once the valve has been cleaned in can be reinstalled.

During a fire ground operation, the decompression valve not being pressed won’t ruin your saw. It is extremely important to ensure that the valve is engaged during normal daily checks and training. This will build good habits that will no doubt carry over to the fire ground.

These are a couple of small tips that can make a ton of difference with your saws on the fire ground. Saws are a mechanical piece of equipment and they need to be cared for, inspected, and maintained if you want them to run in top form.

 

 

Why the Framing Square Sucks – By: Chris Collier

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The framing square doesn’t actually suck; it’s a great tool if you are building a house.  When it comes to forcible entry, the framing square has no place on the fireground.  The fire service has enough trouble with the basics.  Further diluting the basics with “whiz-bang” tricks like the framing square only accelerates the erosion of what basic skills we have left and instills false hope in tactics that will not always work. 

We all know that there are very very few always and never situations in the fire service.  The framing square technique will work sometimes and the irons will work almost always.  I’m much more comfortable with almost always than sometimes.  The irons also afford us many forcible entry options, a second, third, and in many cases more choices should our first attempt be unsuccessful.  The framing square is a single function tool and that function is only useful sometimes making the likelihood of the framing square technique being successful relatively low. 

Forcing an outward opening door that is only locked by panic hardware is easily done with the irons.  Most panic hardware has a spring loaded latch that is between ¾” and 1” long.  That latch is easily pulled from its receiver when the adz of the Halligan is driven between the door and the door jam.  In many instances the door can be forced at that point in the forcible entry operation.  If the door does not release at that point the tool can be driven in to capture both layers of the door as we would do normally.    When prying on the door at this point the spring loaded latch will either pull out of its receiver or the screws holding the panic hardware to the door will be stripped out of the door.  Long story short, doors locked only with panic hardware are not hard to force and are the only doors the framing square will work on. 

Any additional locking devices other than the panic hardware will make the framing square technique useless.  Business owners know that panic hardware is not a substantial locking device and commonly add additional locks to these doors whether legal or not.  You will not know that this technique will not work on any given door until you try it and when it fails, you will have to switch to the irons.  I would prefer to delete this step that doesn’t always work and start with the irons.  You will be bringing the irons anyway, I hope.  Even if the framing square technique is successful you will still need tools to use after you gain entry. 

Planning to use the framing square requires you to bring two extra tools with you, the square and the saw.  Many times this technique is discussed and planned to be used on the back door of a store or in a strip mall type configuration.  Depending on your department and apparatus you arrive on a saw may or may not be available.  If there are roll down gates I would much rather leave that saw in the front of the building to cut the gates.  If there are no gates that saw would be much better used on the roof or removing window bars than being used to force panic hardware that can be easily done with the irons. 

I’m sure someone is thinking the framing square would be a great way to force a door equipped with an arm-a-door lock.  You are right; it will work great… if that’s the only lock on the door.  If someone is going to spend $800 on an arm-a-door I would bet they have some pretty valuable property to protect.  It would not surprise me at all if there were additional locks on a door like that.  Additionally, from the exterior arm-a-door locks have the same bolt pattern as many drop bars.  I would hate to waste time plunge cutting the door and trying the framing square only to find a wood or metal drop bar instead.  These locks are just as substantial as a drop bar and just as easily defeated. 

My preferred method is to place the pike of the Halligan next to the bolt head and drive the pike through the door with a few hits from the axe.  Once this is done next to all four bolt heads I will set the adz between the door and the jam just like any other outward opening door.  Piercing the door next to each bolt head leaves only a small tab of metal holding the bolt in place.  When the door is pried with the Halligan the small metal tab will tear and the bold head will pull through the door, eliminating the locking device the bolts attached.  This technique will work for both the drop bar and the arm-a-door. 

Some doors equipped with panic hardware are also equipped with a time delay release.  This requires the panic hardware to be pressed for a prescribed amount of time before the door will be open.  Doors that have this feature usually also sound an alarm when the panic hardware is depressed.  This is allowed under fire and building codes in certain situations.  It is often allowed in facilities such as daycare centers and mercantile occupancies.  In a daycare setting this feature allows the employees a short period of time to react before a person (adult or child) who is unable to care for themselves due to age, or physical or mental disability can leave unsupervised.  In mercantile occupancies this feature allows security a short period of time to keep thieves from taking something and ducking out a side or rear door unnoticed.  The time between pressing the panic hardware and the door opening is regulated by local code and can be a minute or more in some instances.  This feature will also negate the effectiveness of the framing square by forcing the firefighter with the square to wait and see if the door opens before moving on to conventional forcible entry tactics. 

These are just a few of the reasons why I do not like the framing square.  In short, this technique is extremely prone to failure and requires extra tools.  I like to stick with what I know will work so when I am confronted with a tough door it will not be my first time forcing a door as it may be if you forced every door previously with the framing square.

Please feel free to comment with your questions or suggestions.  Comments must be signed with your first and last name or department name.  Unsigned comments will not be posted in an effort to prevent useless bashing and keep the discussion focused on learning.

Building Construction Features – Cornices, By: Andrew Brassard

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I am sure if you talk to most fire service professionals about an area of basic knowledge that is lacking in today’s fire service it won’t take long to hear the topic of building construction surface.  Knowledge of building construction and how a fire reacts in that building is an area that is extremely under taught and misunderstood by today’s fire service.  It amazes me that we teach safety officers to spot a gloveless hand at 100 yards but we spend very little time talking about the hazards of balloon frame buildings, knee walls, fire spread issues, ordinary construction, etc.  With the changes in building construction nowadays and more and more emphasis of our training time on everything not fire related (ie. EMS, underwater HAZMAT, etc.) we need to teach building construction even more today than we ever have had to in previous years.

A cornice in architectural terms that describes a horizontal decorative molding that usually is found at the tops of doorways or building, for the purposes of the article we are going to look at them on the tops of flat roof buildings.

In the 19th and early 20th century, cornices were a very common place and most buildings were not complete without decorative cornice work adorning the top of the structure.  The functionality of the cornice was simple, to deflect and cause rain water to run off of the building and keep the water from running down the side of the brick work.  The intent was to save the brick work from the wear and tear of mother nature, essentially these decorative moldings were flat roofed buildings example of gutters or eves troughs.

Cornices came to favor in the 19th and 20th century but are in fact much older that that and have there roots all the way back to Roman times. Cornices as we know them in North America come in many different styles but the two most common types are wood and brick.  It is important to note the building construction material used in these cornices before it is too late; brick cornices will hold up much better than there wood counterparts to weather and fire deterioration.  Wood cornices are the more dangerous of the two types of cornices and for the purpose of this article we will talk about the hazards associated with only wood cornices.  Wooden cornices are generally not attached very well to the buildings facade, typically they have been nailed in when the building was first built and very little maintenance or thought goes into them until there is a problem.  Wooden cornices have been known to fall off buildings under snow loads and because of natural breakdown and deterioration of the wood and nails holding the cornice to the building.  When cornices start to become problematic for firefighters is during roof operations and if fire showing from windows starts to involve the cornices.

Roof Operations

When engaged in flat roof operations at one of these older style taxpayers or any other type of older building with a flat roof it is imperative that you take a quick second see if wooden cornices are present.  The reason for this is that in some cases the cornices are not on a parapet and are in fact flush with the roof.  In many they cases are completely tarred over, this will prevent you from knowing whether  you are standing on a solid roof or only standing on the cornice.  If you are accessing the roof via aerial ladder, it is vital that if you have to step off the aerial onto the cornice to aggressively sound the cornice area with a roof or rubbish hook before stepping on it.  Several firefighters have been injured and killed by cornices failing without ever being subjected to fire… they simply gave way under the load of the firefighter operating on them.

Fire Impingement onto Cornices

In building fires where the fire has vented out windows and the fire has started to impinge on the cornice an early and catastrophic collapse of sections of the cornice should be expected.  Also the wooden construction of the cornice can cause the fire to extend along the face of the building.  When dealing with a fire involving sections of cornices a collapse zone should be set up and respected.  During over haul the stability of the cornice should be checked, roof firefighters could attempt to remove it through traditional overhaul means or a from a tower ladder.  Also a stream from smoothbore nozzle could be used to attempt to knock the loose section of cornice off.  You want to try to control when the cornice will fail and not have it happen unexpectedly.

This is just one small building construction feature that firefighters often overlook the hazards of.  Francis L. Brannigan’s famous saying “know your enemy, the building is your enemy” holds even more true today, be sure to practice, train, study, (and most importantly) get out in your area and study building construction features common in the buildings in your district.

Cornice Collapse Video – Fast forward to the 6:25 min mark.

 

Foot Bolts

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Foot bolts are substantial locking devices that can, like many others, be overcome easily with the proper tooks and knowledge.  Foot bolts are slide bolts that are installed along the bottom rail of the door and lock into the floor.  These locking devices can usualy be identified from the outside by the bolt pattern just like a slide bolt that locks into the door jamb.  To determine if the foot bolt is engaged or not, take a key tool or shove knife and slide it under the door.  If the tool hits the bolt, the lock is engaged.  This will prevent wasting time on a locking device that is not engaged. 

 

 

 

 

There are several ways to force these locking devices.  One of the quickest is using the power saw to cut the bolt.  This will be difficult if not impossible unless you have a power saw set up with an outboard blade.  As seen in the picture, the outboard blade allows the saw operator to slide the blade under the door to cut the bolt. 

If you don't know how to change your saw to the outboard position check this video out.  This two minute real time video demonstrates how to perform this modification to your power saw. 

 

 

 

Troubleshooting a Flooded Saw – By: Kevin Legacy

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In some departments a quick on-scene replacement for a flooded power saw is simply a radio transmission away. Unfortunately for most, this is not the case. Everyone who operates one of these saws should know how to correct this common problem on scene.

When too much fuel and not enough air enter the combustion chamber a machine can flood. The spark plug gets coated with raw fuel and may not ignite. On a properly maintained machine, this can happen if you leave the choke on for too long or if the throttle lock is not engaged while attempting to start.  Flooding will not be caused by storing your saw on the rig with the throttle locked and the choke in the on position!  Of course there is the ever popular “I left the on/off switch in the off position while trying to start the machine”. Whoops!!!!.  If one of these errors occurs, and we catch the mistake in time, you can attempt the following to get the machine running.

Make sure the on/off switch is on. Turn the choke off. Push the decompression valve in. While holding the throttle control in the “full throttle” position, begin to crank the engine over. If the machine starts, hold the throttle control “full throttle” until the machine is running smooth and the excessive exhaust smoke clears up. This is easier with 2 firefighters.  

If the machine doesn’t start with the above method, replace the spark plug with the one you should be carrying in your saw kit. This can be done with the combination wrench that your machine comes with. The spark plug, in most cases, is easily accessible so it can be changed fairly quickly. Once changed, attempt to start the machine with the above procedure. If you are trained to use the machine you should know how to change the spark plug.  

Here is a video clip on how to change a spark plug on a Husqvarna 960.   

Sprinklered Basement Fire – By: Kevin Legacy

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I recently responded to a fire as a later arriving company. As we entered the block, the first due companies reported that most of the visible fire had been knocked down by a sprinkler.  Units were mopping up with the line, and reported no extension.  Since we arrived late in the game, we were thinking that there was probably “nothing for us to do here, lets take up”.  The fire was in the basement (laundry room) of a 3 story attached multiple dwelling.  The next report from units in the basement included, “searches will be delayed due to poor visibility”.  The basement laundry room had only one way in and out, via the interior stairs. There were no windows.  Even though the fire was relatively minor, the smoke, steam, and heat were not lifting due to the poor ventilation.  When the IC learned of the conditions, he reminded all members to remain on air until they exited the structure due to high carbon monoxide levels.  When companies reported via radio that the primary search in the basement was negative the IC heard a low air alarm going off in the background.  At this time the IC ordered the first due units out of the structure, and provided a relief unit to replace them to finish up.  The fire concluded without incident.

Even though the above fire was a very small and controlled by the sprinkler system, CO levels remained very high until proper mechanical ventilation was used.

Later arriving units, especially RIT/FAST units, should be prepared for the following:

  • Members going down from removing their face piece too soon due to extremely high CO levels present.
  • Exhausted members: due to the continuing high heat levels from lack of ventilation.
  • Limited access to members operating in the basement.(one way in /out of the basement). Keep the stairs clear.
  • Once the charged hose line is in place and the fire is controlled shut down the sprinkler. The operating sprinkler head will hamper the ventilation process.  

 

 

Entering a Window for VES – By: Kevin Legacy

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Tools – 6’hook or pike pole & Halligan

After making a door out of the window and waiting a few seconds for the room to react to the air changes you have made, and if conditions permit, it’s time to go in.  Before making the move you want to sweep under the window with your hook checking for victims and a solid floor. Hang the hook end on the windowsill with the other end inside the window. This is your reference point guiding you back to your exit.  When entering you want to step into the window whenever possible. One leg at a time straddling the window sill keeping your torso outside until your sure you can commit. This way if conditions change for the worse you can step out. If you feel the need to go in the window head first due to a high heat condition that makes it unbearable to step in the window with your full PPE on use extreme caution. If conditions didn’t improve after taking the window this is not the place you want to be due to the high likely hood that it’s only going to get worse. Remember you need to get yourself to the interior door and close it so you can make that temporary barrier that will give you a little more time to search.  Also, if the heat is such that you can’t step in the likelyhood someone is alive in that room severely diminishes. Only experience and training will help you read the conditions properly so when the time comes you are successful. That cannot be done from a keyboard.

Dwelling Fire Video Discussion

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Take a look at this house fire video and then let’s discuss a few points. These guys appear to have done a pretty nice job especially considering that it looked like the first due engine only had three firefighters. The first 50 seconds is just a response video, skip to that point and start there. While you watch, consider the following points:

• Size-up

o Officer gets a view of sides A, B, and D while arriving

o There is one window of fire on side D and there appears to be fire coming from a window in the same room on side C (you can see the fire above the roof line on arrival)

o Time of day. Cars are in the driveway, are people home?

• Engine Considerations

o Water supply: Would you go in on tank water or wait for the hydrant connection to be made?

o The first line is stretched quickly and it appeared each member had an assigned role.

o The line was charged OUTSIDE of the house.

o The engine leaves the front of the building open for the ladder company.

o A back-up line was stretched and charged.

• Ladder Considerations

o Portable ladder positioned in the front of the building. Ladder position is good with the tip even with the sill.

o It appeared another ladder was taken to the side or rear.

o It appears the primary search may have been done before the engine arrives. Upon arrival you can see what looks like a Fire Dept vehicle parked on the left.

At the 7:33 and 7:43 minute mark members throw some items from the windows. This is not ideal but sometimes is necessary. Be sure when throwing things out of the building to make sure no one is below or on the ladder under that window.

Please feel free to jump in with questions, comments, and suggestions as we discuss this fire. As is standard with all of Brotherhood Instructors LLC’s blog posts, WE WILL NOT POST UNSIGNED COMMENTS. You are entitled to your opinion and to disagree with us and the firefighters in the video as long as you do so in a constructive manner to promote learning.

Forcible Entry Tool Modifications – By Andrew Brassard

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Since the existence of the fire service firefighters have been constantly trying to improve themselves and the tools they work with to adapt to the challenges that their communities present. This article is going to cover some of the basic tool modifications that firefighters have been utilizing for years. The majority of these modifications where spawned in smoky hallways and the backsides of taxpayers by members of the FDNY, the author is not taking credit for any of these modifications…… simply passing on the word.

Marrying up your Irons

Many departments use marrying straps to keep the axe and halligan together, some of these straps can be very simple or quite elaborate with built in shoulder straps and other fancy gadgets that all glow in the dark. The problem with these straps is that they usually don’t hold the tools together very well or can be very difficult to undo in zero visibility with your firefighting gloves on. A better solution for marrying these tools together is to use a hand file to notch out a very small path for the halligan forks to go, after the notch is created simply place the halligan forks into the notch and then give it a quick hit into the ground setting the halligan onto the axe.

Note: even though the tools are “locked” together you should

never fully trust that they will always hold together. Always use proper carrying techniques especially while climbing ladders.

One of the most common questions I get about doing this to your tools is “won’t that weaken the integrity of the axe?” The answer is yes it will weaken the integrity of the axe!! But think about it realistically, it would still take thousands and thousands of pounds of force to cause that axe to break and if you pushed the tool to that extreme the handle would break first.








The Sledgehammer Bracket

The sledgehammer is another favorite striking tool of firefighters. The sledgehammer should be at least ten or twelve pounds for effective striking. The biggest problem that the sledgehammer has is that it does not marry very well with the halligan; this is easily corrected by simply welding a bracket onto the top of the sledgehammer for the adz of the halligan to slide through. This will help hold the position of the halligan but will not keep the two from falling apart.

In my own opinion the flatheaded axe is a far more superior tool and gives the user a lot more options when it comes to forcible entry, the sledgehammer is a single functioning tool and can have its limitations in forcible entry. That being said the sledgehammer goes through brick and masonry much better than the 8 pound axe, if your response district has a lot of bricked up vacant buildings or is primarily commercial buildings the halligan sledgehammer combo works nicely.

The biggest thing when it comes to forcing a door is technique, if your technique is lacking, having a bigger and heavier tool is not going to help you get through a door quicker it will probably cause you to hurt yourself or your partner.

Squared off Shoulder

For any firefighter that has ever forced a door in zero visibility they know that it can be a challenging task, one of the best tool modifications I have ever seen is squaring of the shoulder of the halligan. By squaring off the shoulder of the halligan you create a striking surface to dive the halligan in between the door and the jamb in zero visibility without risking striking your partner with the axe or sledgehammer.

Another excellent place where this modification will pay dividends is in very tight or narrow hallways; depending on the swing of the door you may not have enough room to swing your striking tool effectively. For this method to work well place the fork in between the door and the jamb (after gaping the door) and place both hands at the back of the adz and push the tool into the door, slide the striking tool down the shaft of the halligan striking the squared off shoulder. This method works excellent but the technique must be practiced often and under realistic conditions to be effective and efficient on the fireground.

Chain Link

A simple method for ventilating windows in high rise or multiple dwelling is by ventilating the windows from the roof. By welding a chain link on your halligan close to the fork you now have a place that you can attach a carabineer and piece of rope to. After you have attached the rope simply lower the halligan to the window that needs venting, mark the spot on the rope with your hand and haul the rope and halligan back to the roof. After you get the halligan back into your hands you can throw the halligan off the roof, when the rope goes tight the halligan will swing back in towards the building breaking the glass. This is an extremely effective way to ventilate windows at fires in multiple dwellings.

These are a couple of easy modifications that you can do to your tools that will make them more effective on the fireground.