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Making a Difference in Quebec!

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In April of 2011, Brotherhood Instructors conducted 3 days of "Beyond the Academy: Forcible Entry Operations" training at the IPIQ training facility in Laval Quebec.  The IPIQ is the province wide training facility for all career firefighters in Quebec and roughly translates to: "Institute for the Protection Against the Fires of Quebec".  After class last year we toured several City of Montreal firehouses and discovered that the forcible entry tools provided by the department were somewhat lacking – 3 piece pinned halligans and pick head axes.  After the three days of training we left feeling a sense of pride and accomplishment that we were able to share our forcible entry knowledge and experiences with firefighters that were so eager to learn and put these techniques to use. 

We began to realize that we had made an impact when we received this photo from Captain Mart Corriveau of the Montreal Fire Department! 

 

 

 

 

 

Shortly after receiving the above photo we came across this photo from a fire in Montreal.  1 piece halligan, flat head axe, and the gap and cut technique that we review in our course!  The member on the right in the blue helmet had attended the class.  Thanks to www.coderouge.com for the use of the picture.

We were in invited back this year to conduct our "Beyond the Academy: Advanced Forcible Entry Ops" course for the academy staff as well as an open enrollment forcible entry weekend course.  We were pleased to hear that since our course last year, the City of Montreal has equipped each of its companies with a 1 piece drop forged halligan and flat head axe.  The instructors at the IPIQ facility have also begun integrating hands-on forcible entry training into their recruit school.  The academy purchased two door props from H & R Machine and now teaches students to force inward and outward opening doors.  Forcible entry scenarios are then integrated in everything from EMS training to RIT scenarios. 

We would like to thank the IPIQ for having us out to teach their academy staff  We are extremely proud that our teachings will now be passed along to every firefighter in the province of Quebec.  We hope that these techniques serve you well on the fireground and improve your abilities to serve your communities. 

Posted by on June 19, 2012 • Filed under: administration-leadership, Brotherhood Topics, Class Photos, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Beyond the Academy: Video Training Series – Forcing Slide Bolts & Drop Bars

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Here is the latest addition to our Beyond the Academy: Video Training Series.  This clip includes some tips and tricks for forcing slide bolts and drop bars on outward opening doors.  Feel free to add your comments, questions, or suggestions!  As always – no framing square needed!

 

Posted by on May 9, 2012 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Uncategorized, videos • Tagged:

Another Rex Tool Modification – By: Andrew Brassard

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Ever since my first blog on modifying a standard rex tool to be able to carry it in your pocket I have received lots of emails and had lots of questions about which modification (the pipe or the adz bracket). The reason why there is a debate about which one is better or more applicable is because I tend to like the adz bracket modification better because it allows you to rock the tool side to side and "walk" tough cylinders out off the door, with the pipe modification you loose the ability for the side to side movement.

The main reason that some guys like the pipe modification better is because in their company they utilise the wide adz halligan. So my latest project was to come up with a way to use either the pike or the adz to pull the cylinders. I have also seen on different blogs and websites  several other modifications by other people to give the ability to use both, this was usually accomplished by welding a pipe on the top of the adz bracket. This modification made the tool extremely heavy and awkward. Remember that this is a tool that you want to carry in your pocket most of the time, it should not look like something that a gas station should have the rest room keys attached to!

The first thing I did was cut the handle off a standard Rex Tool with a band saw. The next thing was I cut the length of the head down by 1'' to decrease the weight and size of lock puller, the head was now ready for the new staple. The new staple had to be made to accommodate the pike and the adz, the answer was far simpler than you might think. With the help of Jamie Hiller at H and R Machine I used a shop press to bow the centre of a piece of 1/4'' plate, the ends were then bent to fit the width of the lock puller. A MIG welder was then used to attach the bracket to the lock puller.

This modification gives you the best of both worlds, it allows you to be able to perform through the lock using either the pike or the adz. This new modification gives you a tremendous and light weight lock pulling option that you can keep in your pocket.

Posted by on March 1, 2012 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Slide Bolt Forcible Entry: Part 2

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Click on the image to view or download the PDV version.

Slide Bolts – Exterior PDF

Posted by on February 13, 2012 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Training, training-development • Tagged:

Slide Bolt Forcible Entry

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Check out this info sheet for some forcible entry tips when dealing with slide bolts.  Feel free to print it out and post it in the firehouse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slide Bolts – Interior

Posted by on February 2, 2012 • Filed under: firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Training, training-development • Tagged:

Forcible Entry – The Bam Bam Tool – By: Paul Hoekema

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There are numerous ways to manipulate an American Series 2000 type lock to force entry (hockey puck locks with the key way on the rim of the lock not the face).  You can cut the lock ¾ opposite of the keyway, you can cut the rail above and below the lock and bend the rail out of the way, or you can use a pipe wrench and twist the lock off (if it doesn’t have a guard) just to name a few.  What happens if you’re on an engine and you don’t have all the tools that the truck carries to force these locks?  A simple solution to your problem is the Bam Bam tool.  The Bam Bam tool doesn’t take up much space and allows you to start forcible entry on American Series 2000 type locks until the truck arrives.  The Bam Bam tool utilizes a hardened screw to screw into the key way of the lock and a handle that slides along the shaft of the tool.  It is important to make sure that the screw is hardened.  If it isn’t then the screw may not screw into the lock cylinder, or when you go to force the cylinder the threads of the screw may strip causing the screw to come out of the cylinder without forcing the lock. 

To force the lock using the Bam Bam tool you need to place the screw in the center of the key way and begin to screw the tool into place.  It may take a few seconds to get the screw to bite into the cylinder, but once it does you want to screw it in about 3/16ths to ¼ of an inch into the cylinder.  It is about 4 or 5 threads deep into the cylinder.  You want to screw it in this deep so that you don’t strip the threads when you go to force the lock.  It is important to keep the Bam Bam tool as strait as possible while you are screwing it into position, so that the screw bites into the cylinder evenly giving it a better bite into the cylinder.  Once the screw is set you need to hold the Bam Bam tool with one hand while the other slides the handle back and forth along the shaft of the tool to force the cylinder and the pin of the lock out.  After the cylinder and pin is pulled out remove the lock. Don't forget to pull the pins after forcing the locks!

Using the Bam Bam tool would not be my first option for forcing American 2000 series type locks, but is something good to have in your bag of tricks when other methods of forcible entry can’t be used or are not available.  This method will not work on the American Lock 2500 Series.

 

Posted by on January 10, 2012 • Filed under: Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-development, videos

Forcing Doors In Zero Visibility – By: Andrew Brassard

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Anyone who has ever forced a challenging door in zero visibility knows it can be one of the most difficult forcible entry challenges a crew will ever face, for those of you that have not… This challenge still awaits you.

Weather it is an apartment door on the fire floor of a garden apartment, the illegal basement apartment door in a private dwelling, or the door in a SRO on the floor above the fire the potential to need to force some tough door under arduous conditions is always present. The fact is that we as a fire service typically don't get much practice or direction on forcible entry techniques under favorable conditions let alone under zero or diminished visibility conditions. In this blog we are going to look at several different techniques for forcing entry under zero visibility conditions.

Size Up
Since we are unable to see size up is going to be tougher and normal and is going to be accomplished primarily by feel, both with your hands and the way the tool reacts on the door.

The first step is to feel the door with a gloved hand for any primary and secondary locks, bolt patterns, heat, etc. This will help establish a game plan of attack on the door. Remember you want to start with the highest lock first and work your way down so any heat or smoke behind the door will vent up and away from you.

After a rapid and thorough size up is complete you can begin forcing the door. You are going to GAP, SET, FORCE just like any other forcible entry operation, the only real difference comes from the setting the tool and more specifically the hitting techniques. We are going to look at 3 different hitting techniques that you can utilize to help you drive the halligan into the SET position.  

Double Tap Method
The double tap is more than just Rule 2 in Zombieland, it is a great method for forcing doors in smoky conditions. The double tap method works well in limited visibility situations but it allows a little to much margin of error for zero visibility operations to be an effective option. To perform this technique the axe firefighter lines up the axe with the halligan, he then taps the halligan lightly followed up right after by a more powerful hit. This small tap does a couple of things for both the firefighter holding the halligan and the firefighter hitting. First, it provides a small "practice" swing for the axe firefighter allowing him to build some muscle memory. Second, it gives warning to the firefighter on the halligan not to move because a more powerful hit is coming. Some firefighters like to use the double tap method all the time while forcing doors regardless of the conditions, it really comes down to preference.

Squared Off Shoulder
Most firefighters I talk to about the topic of zero visibility forcible entry say that they square the shoulders on their halligan forks off so that it will provide a striking surface without having the possibility of missing and striking the firefighter who is holding the halligan. This modification is not new to the fire service and I see firefighters modifying their tools like this all over North America, the problem is that if you are going to modify you halligan like this and then not practice the technique often and in realistic conditions then you might as well not even bother performing the modification in the first place. It can be challenging to perform this method and can take a tremendous amount of practice and patience. After the shoulders have been squared off the firefighter with the halligan can place the forks in between the door and the frame, with both hands on the back of the halligan the axe can be placed on the halligan shaft and slide it down to make contact with the squared off shoulder. Ensure that you keep a open palm grip on the back of halligan, if you have a firm grip on the adz or pike and the axe is brought back to far the blade of the axe could severely injury a finger… So keep a open palm grip. I like to keep the squared off shoulders for tight spaces or narrow hallways where you cannot stand behind the halligan to hit it.

One Handed Method
This technique in my opinion is the best method for forcing entry in zero visibility. The halligan firefighter takes their normal stance and hand position on the halligan with the exception of their hand closest to the adz, slide the hand closet to the adz more towards the middle of the halligan. The axe firefighter is going to take a kneeling position behind the halligan firefighter, the bottom hand on the axe is taken off and placed onto the halligan directly behind the adz. This hand is placed on the halligan to provide a point of reference for each swing of the axe. Remember to keep a loose grip on the halligan, your mission is not to impede or steer the halligan but to simple provide that point of reference. The next thing the axe firefighter can do to make life easier for them is to place the butt-end of the axe between their knees, this with help there swings tremendously by making the axe into a large pendulum. This pendulum action will help you deliver even and steady hits on target each time. Sometime with higher locks the firefighter will have to stand to swing the axe, the same steps are repeated with the exception of placing the axe between their knees.

 

 

 

 

 

Depth
How do you know when the halligan is in the set position? When you can see, we know that you want to drive it in until the crotch of the forks is level with the door stop but when we can't see we have to perform this by feel. An easy way to tell is by placing your thumb on the shoulder of the halligan then place three fingers along the side of the forks, the finger furthest away from your thumb should be level with the door stop. Slide your top finger forward and feel for the halligans orientation to the door stop. Not having the halligan set deep enough before prying is one of the biggest problems I see with zero visibility forcible entry, if the halligan is not driven in far enough it may pop out when it is pushed to the door.

The key to being able to force doors effectively in zero visibility and challenging conditions is to prepare for them through aggressive and realistic training. I recently talked to a close friend from a extremely busy urban department that just experienced a close call at a fire, one of the major problems that they experienced on the fireground was a delay of getting water on the fire due to a drawn out forcible entry operation. Crews were faced with a very difficult door in fairly horrendous smoke and heat conditions. After the fire crews talked about how they had never really been shown how to perform forcible entry operations under such strenuous and difficult conditions, the problem is that lots of firefighters tend to feel they don't need this type of training because they have never needed to force a real tough door under these conditions before. I use the analogy of RIT training, you only ever have to use it once on the fireground to make the training worth while.

I often get asked about injury while performing this type of training. I taught a recruit class for my department recently and I had the 10 recruits force hundreds of doors in zero visibility and in live fire conditions and never once did we even hurt anyones feelings. You need to ask yourself "what is the potential for a fireground injury if we DON'T do this training!"

Till next time stay safe!

Posted by on December 12, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, technology-communications-ems-topics, Training, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Come Along – By: Mike Tesarski

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During my initial training as a firefighter in Michigan I was shown the benefits of using a come along.  This training included a “steering column pull” for auto extrication that would pull the steering column and the dash away from the patient freeing them from their entrapments.  I was even shown an example where we literally folded a car in half to show how powerful the come along was. 

A few years later I was hired by a large city in Canada that taught us this same technique, the only problem was that steering columns were now adjustable and this created a hazard as the rack and pinion system is broken up into two, three, or even four parts.  When applying force on these parts the rack and pinion system is the weak area that could snap off and injure the patient or rescuers.  As soon as it was realized that the rack and pinion system was on most cars the come along tool took a back seat in the auto extrication toolbox.

The come-along is a hand operated ratchet lever winch. The lever is used to pull the cable into the wench and the ratchet is the brake that keeps the wire from unwinding (similar to those seen on boat winches).  It is light and compact that can be deployed in many situations.  The only problem with this tool is the ignorance that surrounds it.

I myself used to say to my coworkers, that if you wanted to look like you had no idea what you were doing then take out the Come Along tool and that would prove it.  Funny, the more education and training I get with such tools, the more apt I am to use hand tools over the gas powered hydraulic option.   This is a great example of why I always say, “you don’t know what you don’t know”. 

This brings up the point of training on the equipment that is carried on our trucks.  I’m guilty of thinking that some of our tools that we carry are useless, again I didn’t know what I didn’t know. 

Recently myself and a couple other instructors from Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. attended a course put on by Michigan State University about industrial machinery entrapments.  We used the come along in a few scenarios and it worked great.  The come along was used to lift devices, shore equipment, and binding heavy objects in place.  Keep in mind when using this that it is either a whole “click” on the ratchet or none.  It does not have the capabilities of moving smaller distances.

With the most standard come along assemblies it has the pulling power of 3000 lbs if used with the pulley, or it has 1500 lbs of pulling force without using the pulley.  There are of course, larger and smaller models. 

Pull the come along off your truck with your crew and go over the pros and cons of using this device. If you realize the potential of this piece of equipment it may go from your “plan D” to part of your “plan A” during your initial actions.

Posted by on December 5, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, Training, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Beyond the Academy Video Training Series – Engine Operations: Hydraulic Ventilation

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Check out the newest Beyond the Academy Video Training Series. This one is entitled "Engine Company Operations: Hydraulic Ventilation with a Smooth-bore/Solid Stream Nozzle.

Many fire service members believe that a fog nozzle is the only nozzle that can be used for ventilation, and "prefer" a fog nozzle for that reason. These techniques show that a solid stream nozzle can be used as a hydraulic ventilation tool as well.  We do not entertain the "Smooth-bore vs. Fog" nozzle debate, but we do have our preference.

As Tom Brennan stated when asked about his preference: "A smooth-bore nozzle doesn't make a terrible engine company a good engine company, and a fog nozzle doesn't make a good engine company a terrible engine company!"

Regardless of which one you use, know your tools, the capabilities and the drawbacks. 

Feel free to discuss on this blog.

Posted by on November 26, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, Brotherhood Topics, Email Drill Questions, Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation, videos

Tool Modifications 2.0 – The 8 Pound Force Axe – By: Shane Klug

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February 2011, I transferred to a ladder company, my first time being assigned to a truck.  Detroit ladder trucks typically have 6-pound pick head axes and 8-pound sledge hammers on them.  I tried both of them on the roof, and my tool of choice became the 6-pound pick head axe. I managed to get my hands on an 8-pound pick head axe and gave that a try. While the extra weight was great for smashing through roofs, the balance was VERY nose heavy, which made it harder to control and also very uncomfortable to carry.  Over the summer I was able to attend the Brotherhood Instructors Forcible Entry Ops class held in Independence Twp Michigan, where I used an 8-pound flathead axe, specifically the fire hooks unlimited 8-pound force axe.  I really liked the way the axe was balanced.  It was easy to control when swinging (in the forcible entry class) and seemed easy to carry.  Sometime after the class I purchased my own to use at work.  I decided to make some modifications, but with a twist, compared to what I had seen in the Brotherhood Instructor class.  First, I wanted to try and put the “notch” that allows the halligan forks to marry with the axe in a location that put both tool handles together, so I could get my hand around both tools. In Detroit, most front door forcible entry is performed by engine companies, so for me, I won’t be carrying a halligan much. So the more important modification I wanted was some kind of overstrike protection for my axe, as it would be used mainly for venting the peak roof of single family dwellings.  I had seen small sections of angle iron welded on the bottom of the axe head on the axes used in Gary Fire Dept (Gary, IN).  But they were welded with some space between the angle irons and the handle itself. In my opinion, this location for the over strike protection made it very difficult to carry the axe, especially while climbing up ladders etc.  So I had a friend TIG weld on some sections of angle iron below the head of the axe, but positioned them right against the handle of the axe, following the axe handle contour.  For those of you who have used an axe on a roof to smash a vent hole, you know that often times the axe head will smash through the roof deck and stop on the handle itself, over time break the axe handle right below the axe head itself.  Hopefully this modification will add some life to the tool for me.

 

I know this axe is called an 8-pound force axe, but I think the name sells this tool short.  As I mentioned above, I don’t do the majority of forcible entry, as the engine companies often do the front door and Detroit truck companies only carry one halligan, which is mainly carried by the boss of the truck.  My main objective as a deckie on the back end is to make the roof and ventilate. The vast majority of the time, I’m using this axe to open single family dwelling roofs.  When used in tandem with a saw (chain or rotary), I can use the flat side of the axe to “turn” the boards over on the rafters after they have been cut.  Of if there is no saw available (or the roof doesn’t lend itself to using a saw), I can use the blade side of the axe to start a hole (especially on roof decks that have multiple layers of shingles), then can flip over to continue smashing the roof boards.

       All in all, this axe is fantastic for forcible entry and makes a great tool for vertical ventilation. With the addition of the over strike protection, hopefully the tool will have a long service life opening roofs!

Posted by on November 17, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Roof Ops, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Through the Lock – Pivoting Deadbolt & Hookbolt

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Through the lock forcible entry is a quick and easy method of gaining entry into doors locked with pivoting deadbolts and pivoting hookbolts.  This skill is easier than many believe.  Click on this through the lock info sheet to download a PDF version.  Feel free to use it, print it, and share it with your crews. 

 

Posted by on November 8, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Coordinated Ventilation – Part II by Nate DeMarse

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I stumbled upon a couple videos that drive home points made in the earlier Coordinated Ventilation post. These videos clearly show answers to previously asked questions, and bring up some new discussion tips as well. This is precisely how we should be training at drills and training burns. I don't know where this department is, but they are a class act in training!

Video #1 – The OV Position:

In the first video, we see an Outside Ventilation (OV) firefighter in the correct position to horizontally vent the building opposite the attack line's advance. Note that at the very beginning of the video, the Nozzle Team is advancing the hose line THROUGH THE FRONT DOOR and to the seat of the fire. The door is forced, and they are moving in when the windows are taken.

The firefighter is off to one side of the window, and takes the window located furthest from him first. This assures that he will be able to vent both windows without delay. If the window closest to the firefighter is vented first, and fire vents from the opening the second (furthest window) may have to be abandoned. This is especially true if operating on a portable ladder or fire escape. 

Video #2 – Points & Pointers:

I am not certain, but I think the video below is another angle of the same video above (a very rare occurance in our profession). If it is not the same fire, we are going to use it like it is for the purposes of driving home a point.

As I stated in the comments in Part I, "We should also wait if the line is delayed in getting into position, charged and READY TO MAKE THE PUSH on the fire. There is a vast difference in a line being there, a line being charged, and all of the members masked up and ready to push in." This video starts with a charged attack line, but the door hasn't been forced. If the OV takes the windows prematurely, this fire will continue to spread and grow as the line is not ready to advance. After entry is gained, you can hear the officer telling the OV to "take that glass".

Entering the Building Side-Note:  At the :35 second mark, you will see the camera move to the front stoop of the house. Note the visibility at the floor level! You can see nearly ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE HOUSE. Yet nearly every single firefighter that entered the building entered either standing or slight crouched with their head in the smoke, unable to see ANYTHING! I will reiterate at this point that I am not beating up on this department, THIS HAPPENS EVERYWHERE!!

Take a second after the door is forced to put your face piece directly on the floor and look UNDER the smoke. This requires you to get on your knees to accomplish. The nice thing about taking a look at the floor level is that you have to physically, consciously make a decision to stand-up to enter after you look.

Here are a few other benefits that stem from taking a few seconds to get low and take a look:

  • You allow the heat and super-heated gases that have built up in the sealed building a few seconds to "blow" and push over your head. This in turn will cause the smoke to lift off of the floor, and allow for the following:
    • You will be able to see a victim lying on the floor 10 feet or further inside the doorway, at that point you can say you conducted a rescue instead of tripping over someone and pretending that you rescued them! The Medal Ceremony will sound supurb, but you will know the truth!
    • You will be able to get a room, floor or apartment layout.
    • You will be able to see the glow of the fire on the floor, or the fire itself. You will know that it is on the right side of the hall, three doorways down.
    • You wlll see the large hole in the floor five feet inside the house and not fall into the basement and promptly call a "Mayday" within seconds of entering the building.

You will know all of this information at the front door, without walking (not searching) blindly. Then, because you are already on your knees conducting this vital size-up skill, you will enter the building safely on your knees, crawling towards your objective(s). When we couple the skills listed in this side-note with the OV performing those tasks in the correct position and the correct time, you will have the opportunity to gather vital information before entering.

THESE TASKS ALLOW US TO BE AGGRESSIVE AND SAFE! 
(and yes, those words can be used together)!

Forcible Entry Side-Note: The Forcible Entry team did a good job on the door. If you look closely, on the fourth swing the Striking FF nearly misses high with the axe. With hand placement so close to the axe-head, just a little more of a miss could have caused a crush injury. Believe it or not, in our travels this is the most common cause of injury in forcible entry (almost always resulting in at least one broken finger). To remedy that concern, This video (one of our first created nearly 2 years ago) shows safe striking techniques. Additionally, Brotherhood Instructors, LLC axes now have our company markings (colored electrical tape) 6"-7" below the head of the axe. Any firefighter using our axes know that if they place their top hand where the tape is, their hands are in the safe zone. Again, this is a very common injury and very rarely do we get a chance to catch forcible entry tools and members practicing their craft.

I think this fire department is doing a great job in getting their training done as we operate. Far too may training burns just walk members through the motions, leaving them with a false sense of security of what a real fire will be like (i.e: setting themselves up for failure). This department has their members on the radio, and conducting coordinated ventilation and fire attack. These videos left some open some great discussion points using realistic training and errors that occur on EVERY fireground!

Feel free to post comments, questions or concerns. We are all here to learn so let the learning commence!

Respectfully,
Nate DeMarse
Co-Owner, Brotherhood Instructors, LLC.

 

Posted by on November 2, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, Email Drill Questions, Engine Company Ops, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, Search, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation, videos

Duckbill Lock Breaker – By: Andrew Brassard

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Nowadays firefighters tend to become over reliant on saws during forcible entry operations and often forget some of the most basic of fireground tools. The Duckbill Lock Breaker is one such a tool that has become a forgotten tool that tends to sit in a compartment on the truck. But what about the times when, the saw does not start? Or you have to change the blade? Or you have to remove locks inside of a building where the saw will be choked out by the smoke? The duckbill is a tremendous secondary tool for these situations.

The Duckbill Lock Breaker works by driving the lock shackle off the body of the lock. The lock breaker will remove an American 700 Series Lock with no problem, in fact there are very few locks that can not be defeated by the lock breaker. One lock the can withstand the forces that can be applied with the lock breaker is the disc type lock. If a disc type lock is present a different forcible entry method should be utilized.

 

The Duckbill Lock Breaker is a single functioning tool, meaning it's only function is to force entry into padlocks.

The duckbill is made of soft metal, usually brass. The reason for making it out of soft metal is so that as it is driven down in between the padlock body and the shackle the lock will "bite" into the soft metal of the wedge and hold it's position until it is struck again. Every time the lock breaker is struck it is driven down a little further into the lock, this places more and more pressure on the lock until it finally fails. If the wedge was made out of a hardened metal it would simply bounce out every time it was struck.  

To use the Duckbill Lock Breaker, simply place the wedge into the lock. This is where mistakes get made! The only way the duckbill will work is with the top edge of the wedge on the shackle and the bottom edge of the duckbill on the body of the lock, do not put the duckbill into the lock with the top and bottom rails on both side of  the shackle! Once the lock breaker is in place use the 8 lbs forcible entry axe or a 12 lbs Maul to drive the duckbill into the lock, continue driving it in until the lock fails. It is that simple!

So dust off the duckbill lock breaker, dig it out from the compartment, or buy one to include to your forcible entry arsenal. It is a great tool that can prove to be extremely valuable on the fireground.

 

 

 

 

Posted by on October 31, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Pressure Reducing Valves – By: Chris Collier

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Lack of water on the fire is a fire ground problem that seldom stands alone.  When water is not being applied to the fire at the proper rate we can all agree that things get worse on the fire ground.  When we look at fires where maydays or firefighter fatalities occurred we can often find reference to water loss or water problems.  One such fire is the one Meridian Plaza fire which occurred in Philadelphia PA on February 23, 1991.  This fire took the lives of three Philadelphia Firefighters.  One (of several) issues that plagued firefighters at this fire was improperly set pressure reducing valves.  These valves were set to allow 60 psi discharge pressure which was inadequate to operate the fire department's 1 3/4" hoselines and combination nozzles. 

Pressure reducing valves are found on many standpipe systems and there are dozens of types of these valves.  This blog post will show only a few so be sure to familiarize yourself with the ones found in your response area.  Pressure reducing valves are designed to regulate the pressure at a given standpipe outlet.  Pressures can be very high when dealing with fire pumps or gravity tanks.  These valves are intended to prevent over pressurization of components after the valve.  By reducing pressure flow is also reduced. 

The best and easiest way to deal with a pressure reducing valve is to remove it completely.  One style of pressure reducing valve threads onto the standpipe outlet.  When this type of valve is found, remove it with a spanner or pipe wrench and proceed as normal.  If the valve can not be removed you may have to go to the floor two floors below the fire and hook up there.  If you are unable to remove any of the pressure reducing valves, ensure the valve is in the full open position and proceed with caution. 

Some standpipe outlet valves have a pressure reducing device built into them.  Some of them can be adjusted with a screwdriver or allen wrench and others require disassembly of the valve and special tools.  These are the pressure reducing valves that firefighters must be intimately acquainted with before the fire to ensure a successful operation. 

Once we remove the pressure reducing valve we can control the pressure ourselves using the outlet valve and our inline pressure gauge.

Posted by on October 11, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, Building Alteration-Renovation, Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Water Supply • Tagged:

Electric Roll Up Gates – By: Andrew Brassard

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Not all forcible entry has to be forcible, in some cases a little knowledge and some finesse will get the job done quicker than some more traditional methods.

One such instance is Electric Roll Up Doors and Gates.  With a little bit of knowledge and a screwdriver entry into these gates can be very fast with very little force. Electric Roll up Gates are most commonly found in my area on loading docks, garbage rooms, and on the occasional roll up gate. These electric door openers are usually found mounted around 4' off the ground directly beside the door that it opens. There is a key way on the control panel.  This key way controls the door going up and down. The key way is often a standard mortise lock cylinder, on the back side of the cylinder. A large pivoting arm is bolted to the key way. When the key is inserted and turned the pivoting arm will twist and hit a limiter switch to either roll the door up or down.

 

 

 

Forcing entry
Forcing entry into the door usually does not require very much force at all, the only tool that you need is a screwdriver in most cases. The first thing you want to do is undo the screws in the four corners of the face plate. I have been told by friends that they have encountered security screws in these from time to time, I have never encountered these security screws. Most of the time standard Philips, Robertson, or Slot headed screws hold the face plate on. Once the screws have been removed the face plate will need to be pried off with a halligan or Rex Tool. The reason for this is that the pivoting arm on the back side of the cylinder hits small tabs on the  edges of the electrical box. The tabs are why it says on the front of the lock face that you must have the key in order to open the lock, when the key is inserted into the key way and it is turned the pivoting arm turns and is able to fit past the tabs on the electrical box. To pry the face plate off is not difficult, these tabs on the electrical box are light gauge galvanized metal that will bend quite easily with a little pressure with a prying tool.

Operating the gate
Once the face plate has been removed and pried out you can operate the gate. Directly behind the pivoting arm is a limiting switch with a simple button to operate the gate up and down, there is one button on each side of the lock cylinder. You can simply use your finger (or a pencil if it makes you feel more comfortable) to push the button and activate the door. If you look at the face plate you may be able to tell what side the limiter switch is for "Up" and what one is for "Down" by the words on both sides of the lock cylinder. If no words indicating what side is "Up" are present simply try pushing one side, if it does not work it means that it is the other side. Keep in mind that you are dealing with live electrical wires so extreme caution must be taken not to touch any wires, if you use the proper techniques and give any electrical component the respect it deserves than that should not be a problem.

Also remember to take a thorough look at the gate and properly size it up. If there are additional locks on the door such as traditional pin, hasp, and padlock assemblies, then these locks must be removed before this entry method can be performed.

In some instances these gates are also locked from the inside or the electrical switch no longer works, in these instances the gate or door will have to be cut with a power saw.

Also be sure to check with your departmental SOP's and SOG's before performing this entry method, some departments have policies against members touching an electrical equipment such as this.

This is an extremely quick and effective method for forcing entry and it causes very little damage. The best way to prepare for these types of forcible entry situations is to pay a visit to the company in your city or town that install these electric gate openers, ask them to run you through the most common types that they install in your area.

Till next time, stay safe!

Posted by on September 30, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Modular Cribbing – By: Mike Tesarski

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One thing I've always liked about the Fire Service is the ability to improvise, adapt, and overcome problems. If you give a firefighter a problem you can be assured they will come up with an answer. I have always found it interesting to visit firehouses across North America and see different tools and equipment that have been modified or made “in-house” to solve a specific problem that the department or crew faced.

One such homegrown invention that firefighters have come up with is known as modular cribbing.  This invention came from the Mississauga Extrication Team in 1997, when the need for speedy vehicle stabilization was needed with limited manpower.

After trying a few versions of this cribbing the final product was perfected.  Modular cribbing is 6 4×4 wood cribs that are divided into two separate modules and screwed together firmly on two rubber mats (conveyor belt). Using a more solid piece of rubber allows the crib to be slid into space and rotated with ease. Each 4×4 is spaced 4 inches apart. This allows two tiers of 3 4×4 box cribbing to be stacked. This also allows for the two sheets of cribbing to be stored as one solid piece. Both pieces are held together with a metal bar slid through the middle where holes are drilled.  A handle made of a piece of seatbelt nailed to the end makes this easy to take off a truck shelf and carried to the scene.

To deploy the modular cribbing is a simple process. The cribbing point is selected and then the metal pin can be pulled, this separates the 2 individual modules allowing them to be stacked in opposite directions in place underneath the vehicle or what ever is going to be lifted. 

Another tremendous advantage of the modular cribbing is that because the cribs are tied together with the rubber matting it helps prevent the cribbing stack from slipping or inadvertently moving during extrication or lifting operations. The belting also provides a fantastic and stable platform for air bag operations

One point of contact on a 4×4 crib will hold approximately 6,000 pounds of force. With nine points of contact this cribbing will support up to 54,000 pounds which is ideal for stabilization of large vehicles or heavy machinery. Airbags can be used on top of the modular cribbing with ease and stability.

Having used this type of crib in competition and in "real life" scene I can tell you that it is extremely useful and quick.

Posted by on September 24, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, rescues, RIT or FAST Operations, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

The In-Line Pressure Gauge – By: Chris Collier

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The in-line pressure gauge is an essential and often overlooked piece of equipment when operating off of a standpipe.  From the earliest days of our pump operator training we are taught to start at the nozzle and work back to the pump to calculate the discharge pressure for a given line.  Lets look at a simple example:

  • Smooth bore nozzle with a 1 1/8" tip = 50 pounds per square inch (psi) nozzle pressure
  • 200' of 2 1/2" hose @ 5 psi friction loss per length = 20 psi to compensate for friction loss
  • Line operating on the 2nd floor = 5 psi for grade change
  • Discharge pressure = 75 psi

This is very easy to calculate quickly in your head because all of the factors in the equation are known.  How do you know how many psi to add for the piping between the fire department connection (FDC) and the standpipe outlet on the 4th floor?  The short answer to this question: you don't know.  It is impossible to know the piping configuration of every standpipe and you are crazy to think that if you knew it you could calculate it quickly at the time of a fire. 

The quickest, easiest, and most accurate way to provide the proper pressure at the standpipe outlet is through the use of an in-line pressure gauge.  This appliance, when connected directly to the standpipe outlet, allows us to calculate discharge pressure as if the pump panel of the engine was in the stairwell.  The example above with the smooth bore nozzle and 200' of 2 1/2" hose can be calculated exactly the same way, ensuring 75 psi at the standpipe outlet to provide 50 psi at the nozzle. 

The in-line pressure gauge becomes even more important when we have multiple lines operating off of the same standpipe.  If the fire is on the 4th floor, the first line should be connected on the 3rd. floor.  The second line which will either back up the first line or proceed to the floor above (5th floor) will be connected to the standpipe outlet on the 2nd floor.  If the first line was 200' the second will have to be at least 300'.  The second line will also be going up three floors – from the 2nd to the 5th so we will have to add 5 psi per floor to compensate for head pressure.  Smooth bore nozzle (50 psi) + 300' of 2 1/2" line (30 psi) + 3 floors elevation (15 psi) = 95 psi.  The only way to be sure that each line is pumped at the proper pressure is to place the in-line pressure gauge on the standpipe outlet. 

There are a few steps we need to take before attaching the in-line pressure gauge to the standpipe outlet.  First open the standpipe outlet and let it run for a few seconds… yes, the floor is going to get wet and so are the stairs, its okay.  This serves two purposes: first, it tells us that we have a functional standpipe that has water and second, it will hopefully flush any obstructions from the outlet.  Once the outlet is flushed, turn it off and look inside.  If there are any obstructions still in there remove them with the channel locks that you carry in your standpipe kit.  Now, connect your in-line pressure gauge to the outlet and your hose to the gauge. 

Once all of the sections of hose are connected and the line is flaked out, open the standpipe outlet valve ALL THE WAY!  At this point you will get a static pressure reading since there is no water moving through the line.  Once the line is opened adjust the standpipe outlet valve until you get the desired residual pressure on the in-line pressure gauge.  It is extremely important to set the pressure while the line is flowing water.  If necessary, the nozzle team can open the nozzle in the stairwell or the public hallway to set the pressure before moving into the fire area. 

Thanks for reading and be safe!  As always, feel free to add your questions, comments, or suggestions.

 

Posted by on August 31, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Water Supply • Tagged:

Changing Saw Blades – Diamonds are a Firemen’s best friend too – By Grant Light

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Over the past few years there have been some big changes in the type of circular saw blades used by fire departments across the country.  In the past almost all of the metal and concrete cutting was accomplished with fiber wheels made of a sacrificial material such as aluminum oxide or silicon carbide.  The biggest problem with these blades was that they got smaller as you cut, causing you to change blades during a rescue and at times not allowing you the depth of cut needed to get the job done.  The potential for blades to fly apart during operations was also a big safety issue.  You had one blade for metal, one for concrete and at times one for stone.  Just that fact alone required a quick decision about the work to be done and in some instances quick blade changes were required before cutting could begin.

Just like everything else in the fire service, saw blades have changed dramatically as new technologies have moved from the construction industry to the rescue services.  Diamonds are where that technology has taken us.  Many different types of diamond blades are available but we will look at two, Segmented and Vacuum Braised.  Segmented blades have a diamond impregnated segment attached to a steel wheel.  They were originally designed for cutting concrete with imbedded rebar.  They moved to the fire service through US&R teams and are used by many companies to cut metal during forcible entry operations.

The newest additions to diamond technology are the Vacuum Braised blades.  They have very high quality diamonds attached directly to the steel wheel.  This removes any chance of a diamond segment coming off the wheel and becoming a projectile during operations.  These blades can cut an extremely wide range of products such as Hardened locks & shackles, hockey puck locks, security gates, re-bar, chain-link fence, stucco, concrete, block, brick, stone, asphalt, wood, drywall, car doors, ductile iron, cast iron, angle iron, black iron, schedule 40 &80 steel pipe, plastic pipe, 2x4s and plywood.  These blades will do all this without reducing the depth of cut and outlasting fiber wheels 100:1 or more.  During training at a scrap yard we cut through a fiberglass roof on a conversion van, which was backed up by 4 layers of OSB plywood and then turned and cut the class 3-trailer hitch off the rear of the vehicle.   We were using a Desert Diamond vacuum braised blade and it didn’t skip a beat.  The ability to grab a circular saw and cut just about anything you encounter is a welcome change from the blades we used just a few years ago.  These new blades have a higher upfront cost but their ability to cut a wide range of materials, remain a constant diameter and outlast any forcible entry cutting scenario you might encounter make them a smart choice as you move forward into the future of circular saw blades.

Posted by on August 25, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, Ladders, rescues, RIT or FAST Operations, Roof Ops, Search, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Hit, Hit, Hit Part 2 – By: Andrew Brassard

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In the last article we talked about ensuring that the striking firefighter has their top hand at least 6" down from the head of the axe.  This is to ensure that any missed strikes don't crush the striking firefighters fingers.

Now we are going to talk about where to place your bottom hand and how to position your body for optimal striking during conventional forcible entry operations.

Just like the placement of your top hand, your bottom hand placement can be critical to a smooth forcible entry operation. For some reason, lots of firefighters want to choke their bottom hand up to around the middle of the axe.  This grip can lead to problems during forcible entry operations. What tends to happen when using this type of grip is that as the striking firefighter swings the axe, the butt end of the handle digs into the firefighter holding the halligans leg. The momentum of the axe being swung usually doesn't stop once the butt end of the axe handle bumps the firefighters leg.  The momentum tends to carry the axe through the swing but drastically off target. This obviously can lead to missed hits and the potential of injuring a member.  Instead, place your bottom hand down at the bottom of the axe just above the fawns foot. This will allow you to be more aware of where the butt end of the axe handle is.

 

Don't be a Fool…. Cross your Tools
Another very common striking  mistake is not crossing your tools. The optimal striking position for the axe is to have it crossing the adz of the halligan and not in line with it. The reason for crossing the tools is that it increases your striking surface to allow for small inaccuracies. With the axe in line with the adz it leaves very little margin for error for the striking firefighter, if he is off the mark by only 1" this could cause a glancing hit on the adz and cause the halligan firefighter to be struck. If the axe and the adz of halligan are crossed it will increase your margin of error by giving you 2" up and down and 3" left to right leeway in your swing.

Keep your Eye on the Ball
When I was a young kid my father was teaching me how to catch a baseball and the first thing he said was "keep your eye on the ball", this principle applies the same to forcing a door. You should always try to make yourself eye level with the adz, this will make your swing much more accurate. Depending on the location of the lock being forced, you may have to take a knee, crouch, or you may be standing straight up, but for the majority of locks that are located in the middle of the door the striking firefighter should take position on their knees.

These small tips will help you be more proficient during you forcible entry operations.

Until next time, stay safe.

Posted by on August 22, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Search, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Hit, Hit, Hit – By: Andrew Brassard

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I have been teaching forcible entry for almost 10 years, in that time I have seen a few injuries. It sometimes comes with the territory: bumps, bruises, and the odd black finger nail have happened when both members of the forcible entry team are not on the same page. One of the simplest mistakes that I have seen firefighters make that leads to injuries is holding the axe too high on the shaft. A lot of firefighters are thought to hold the shaft of the axe directly below the head. In my opinion this is an incorrect grip.

The reason that this grip is not favorable is because if the striking firefighter is off the mark with the swing by only a few inches the can crush their fingers between the shaft of the axe and the halligan adz. I have seen this on several occasions and a couple of times it has led to a black finger nail or a broken digit. This is a serious problem not only because of a member getting injured but on the fire ground the forcible entry operation is halted which could cause significant delays in entry, water on the fire, ventilation, or commencement of search and rescue operations.

To avoid this, ensure that your members keep their top hand at least 6" below the head of the axe. Lots of companies, to ensure that there members do not forget this, place there company identification colors or number at least 6" down from the axe head, this will be a subtle reminder to keep your hand down and it will also build company pride and ensure no other company walks away with your tools.

Posted by on August 21, 2011 • Filed under: fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Search, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Some Facts About Standpipes – By: Chris Collier

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Did you know standpipe systems are designed to deliver a prescribed amount of water at a prescribed pressure to the top most outlet?  Unless you are a fire inspector or you are really into engine company operations you may not have put much thought into the design of a standpipe system.  At first glance a standpipe system may appear to just be a pipe with some valves and fire hose threads that we can supply water to with a fire engine.  If you are having trouble sleeping one night, try reading NFPA 14, it has all of the information on design and installation of standpipe systems.  For firefighting purposes we need to be concerned with pressure (PSI), gallons per minute (GPM), and what hose/nozzle combination we are using.

There is great debate in the fire service over the proper hose/nozzle combination to use when operating from a standpipe system.  That debate is driven by arguments over GPM, PSI, obstructions, etc.  The easiest part of that debate to put to rest is the GPM argument.  In my research and experience doing fire inspections I have never found a standpipe system that was designed for fire department use with a design flow less than 250 GPM at the top most or most remote outlet.  We all know a 2 1/2" hand line flows approximately 250 GPM, therefore a properly maintained standpipe system can provide the appropriate flow. 

The next issue is pressure (PSI).  We all know that smooth bore nozzles operate best at 50 psi and there are a multitude of combination nozzles that operate at various pressures.  Standpipe systems design standards were written based upon firefighters using 2 1/2" hose with smooth bore nozzles.  These standards were first written in the 1960's and the modern versions are still based upon 2 1/2" hose and smooth bore nozzles.  NFPA 14 required 65 psi residual pressure from the top most standpipe outlet up until 1993.  From the 1993 edition of NFPA 14 until present 100 psi residual pressure is required from the top most or most remote outlet.  The 65 psi requirement was intended to ensure a productive fire flow when 3 lengths of 2 1/2" hose with a smooth bore nozzle was attached to the top standpipe outlet.  50 psi nozzle pressure + 5 psi friction loss per length of hose = 65 psi outlet pressure.  Operating in a building with a standpipe system designed before 1993 is our "worst case" scenario, so we will use the 65 psi requirement for further discussion. 

Having the proper hose/nozzle combination plays a pivotal role in standpipe operations being a success or failure.  New fire hose is not the same as older fire hose.  Newer hose creates much less friction loss than older hose which further enables fire departments to employ 1 3/4" hose for standpipe operations.  Regardless of which type of hose your department has you need to know its friction loss per length.  The easiest way to determine this is to hook 100 feet of hose up to the engine and place an in-line pressure gauge behind the nozzle.  Flow the line so you have the proper nozzle pressure at the in-line gauge and calculate the difference between the gauge on the pump panel and the in-line pressure gauge. 

Based on the above information about standpipe design we can rule out 100 psi combination nozzles for standpipe operations.  Even with the best fire hose with low friction loss and a system designed to have 100 psi residual pressure at the top most outlet we can reasonably conclude that we will not have 100 psi at the nozzle.  This is true with 2 1/2" line and will only be worse with smaller line as we know friction loss increases exponentially as hose size decreases. 

1 3/4" hose can create friction loss as high as 18.5 psi per 50 foot length, or 20 psi per length for firefighter friendly math.  To dismiss 1 3/4" hose as a realistic standpipe line lets look at a smooth bore nozzle with 1 length of hose.  50 psi nozzle pressure + 20 psi friction loss for 1 length of 1 3/4" line = 70 psi outlet pressure.  We know that older systems are only required to supply 65 psi at the top most outlet.  We should never connect less than 3 lengths of hose to a standpipe outlet.  We need at least 1 length to go from the floor below to the fire floor, one length for the hallway, and one length for the fire apartment.  For arguments sake lets be extremely generous and assume a fancy new piece of 1 3/4" line only creates 10 psi of friction loss per length, half of what the older hose produced.  With 50 psi needed to operate the nozzle + 30 psi friction loss = 80 psi needed at the standpipe outlet.  You can easily see how these issues are further compounded if using a nozzle that requires more than 50 psi.

It is no secret that I like smooth bore nozzles.  They are the simplest and NEARLY fireman proof.  Check out our Nozzles: Truths From The Street article for my thoughts on smooth bore versus combination nozzles.  There are some very nice low pressure fog nozzles on the market that will work well on a well maintained standpipe.  I still prefer the smooth bore nozzle because as hard as we try to ensure systems are well maintained, we really don't know how well they are maintained regardless of what the paperwork says.  When speaking of nozzle obstructions, I am far more concerned with items placed in the fire department connection (FDC) than items placed in the standpipe outlet.  We all (I hope) flush any standpipe outlet before hooking up to it.  Items placed in the FDC are not so easy to see or remove and can take some time to make it through the piping and into your nozzle.  Those items can be dealt with much easier when using a smooth bore nozzle as described in the Nozzles: Truths From The Street article. 

The other type of obstruction when dealing with standpipe systems is pipe scale.  Pipe scale occurs when rust and corrosion adhere to the inner surface of the pipes.  This also serves to increase friction loss in the pipe and can further reduce outlet pressure.  The fitting it the picture was removed from a sprinkler system that was found to have some pipe scale issues.  Pipe scale will not be found unless an internal pipe inspection is conducted.  Pipe scale will have no effect on the operability of a smooth bore nozzle but can have a devastating impact on combination nozzles by clogging the tip. 

Feel free to add your comments, questions, or suggestions.  I will expand on this topic soon with some information about in-line pressure gauges for standpipe operations. 

Posted by on August 15, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, Engine Company Ops, fire-prevention-education, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, in-the-line-of-duty, Stretching, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Water Supply • Tagged:

Cutting the Locks

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Brotherhood Instructors believes in having multiple plans in mind for any forcible entry situation.  A back-up plan for forcing an outward opening door can be cutting the locks.  We prefer to gap the door away from the frame and cut the throw of the lock as opposed to cutting the door, known as the "bird beak cut".  The bird beak cut seldom works since it is very difficult to cut completely through the door due to the door frame getting in the way. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you decide to cut the locks, gap the door away from the jamb using the halligan or axe.  Start the saw blade spinning at a low RPM to make a groove in the bolt of the lock and then throttle to full RPM to complete the cut.  This is an especially helpful technique when dealing with foot bolts.  Having the power saw set up in the outboard position will allow the saw to better cut the foot bolts.  Click here for our previous blog on foot bolts.  Be sure when cutting the bolt of any lock to cut as close to the door as possible.  This will ensure that the lock can not re-latch once the tool holding the gap has been removed. 

 

 

Posted by on July 29, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Search, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Brotherhood Instructors class in Wildwood NJ

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Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. will be presenting our 8-hour hands-on "Beyond the Academy: Engine & Ladder Company Operations" class on Thursday September 15, 2011.  This course is hosted by the Cape May County Fire Chiefs Assn. – Click here for registration information!  Sign up now, don't get left out!

Click here to see pictures from last years class!

Beyond the Academy: Engine & Ladder Company Operations consists of parts of our Beyond the Academy: Engine Company Operations & Beyond the Academy: Ladder Company Operations classes.  Check out these videos for a quick overview of the course material.

 

 

2012-04-21 – Sergeant Bluff, IA – BtA Machinery Rescue – Flier & Registration Form

Beeton MIM

Fergus MIM[1]

Mt Holly Flyer2

Antonia Flyer2

Course Catalog – Email Version

Posted by on July 25, 2011 • Filed under: Announcements-News, Attack Line, Brotherhood Topics, Class Photos, Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, Ladders, Roof Ops, Search, special-operations, Stretching, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation, videos, Water Supply • Tagged:

Video – The Quick Louver – By: Jamie Morelock

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Check out the latest addition to the Brotherhood Instructors, LLC. Video Training Series.  Instructor Jamie Morelock reviews the vertical ventilation tactic known as the louver cut.

Posted by on July 19, 2011 • Filed under: Building Alteration-Renovation, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Ladder Company Ops, Ladders, Roof Ops, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Tactical Discussion: Apartment Fire w/ Critical Decisions by: Nate DeMarse

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We first saw this video on Backstep Firefighter. An excellent video surfaced this week that addresses some very critical decisions that must be made in seconds at this early arriving apartment fire in downtown Mamaroneck, New York.  I want to preface this discussion by saying that the Fire Department in Mamaroneck did an OUTSTANDING job in getting several things accomplished simultaneously with very limited manpower. They were confronted with a very complex situation, including a complex laddering problem that they overcame without hesitation.

It appears that the first due engine has arrived to a heavy fire condition in at least one room on the second floor of a three story apartments over stores "downtown-type" building that is common across the entire North American region. In reality, this fire could have happened in nearly ANY TOWN in North America. So since it COULD HAPPEN in your town, here are a few questions to discuss the incident.

There is a visible victim at the top floor window in obvious distress. As we say at every Brotherhood Instructors, LLC course, I am going to step out of my "FDNY Manpower Fantasy World" and attempt to stir a discussion that applies to the other 95% of the firefighting world.  You are arriving with an "now-standard" engine staffed with THREE (including the boss). If you have a total of four, you are extremely lucky, and feel free to answer accordingly. The next due engine and/or truck is 4-5 minutes out.  How and when are we addressing the following concerns from the video:

1) Do we stretch the line to confine/extinguish the fire first or do we go for the ladder rescue? Why? What are the pros and cons of each?

2) Can you split your company to get both accomplished at once? If so how? What are the implications?

3) What sized portable ladder (if it was available on your engine) would you use to reach the 3rd floor sill?

4) What are other options to the portable ladder in the front?

5) What size attack line are you pulling to attack this second floor fire?

6) What are the forcible entry concerns at this fire? Type of door, locks, etc…?

Please copy and paste the questions into your reply below, and answer using your name & department. Keep in mind that we have a lot of young firefighters on this blog that read our posts  to learn, so if you have something throw it down even if you think it is very basic. To the young guys: DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS!

Now take a look at the photos below (bing.com, birds-eye-view) for some added size-up discussion. Unless you were intimately familiar with this building during inspections, EMS runs, water leaks, etc… this building can cause you some complex problems.

1) The fire is located on the 2nd floor, but the 3rd floor is only about 1/2 or 3/4 the depth of the building. Does this now become a top floor fire? How are you getting to the lower level (2nd floor roof) in the rear? How would you communicate this?

As a Roof Firefighter, in my opinion your game plan has now changed. I would be expecting to go up there and force a skylight, scuttle and/or bulkhead and do a perimeter survey. This won't be the case at this job. This is a perfect scenario to drive the point home of crawling or probing with a tool in front of you in a limited visibility condition. If you do not in this case, you can take a 1 story fall to the rear roof, rendering you injured or worse.

2) Note the potential VES opportunity that may be available on the Exposure 2(B) roof. It appears from the overview photo that the window in the A-B (1-2) corner may lead to the same room that the victim is trapped. There are also similar VES opportunities in the rear (2nd floor roof) if needed.

Feel free to add further questions or stir discussion. Remember, we strictly moderate our blog discussions. Keep it professional and to sign your posts. NO UNSIGNED POSTS or posts that simply bash the department (which would be very hard in this case) will be allowed.  Stay safe!

 

 

 

Posted by on July 14, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, command-leadership, Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, Ladders, rescues, Roof Ops, Search, Stretching, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, videos