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Beyond the Academy Video Training Series – Engine Operations: Hydraulic Ventilation

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Check out the newest Beyond the Academy Video Training Series. This one is entitled "Engine Company Operations: Hydraulic Ventilation with a Smooth-bore/Solid Stream Nozzle.

Many fire service members believe that a fog nozzle is the only nozzle that can be used for ventilation, and "prefer" a fog nozzle for that reason. These techniques show that a solid stream nozzle can be used as a hydraulic ventilation tool as well.  We do not entertain the "Smooth-bore vs. Fog" nozzle debate, but we do have our preference.

As Tom Brennan stated when asked about his preference: "A smooth-bore nozzle doesn't make a terrible engine company a good engine company, and a fog nozzle doesn't make a good engine company a terrible engine company!"

Regardless of which one you use, know your tools, the capabilities and the drawbacks. 

Feel free to discuss on this blog.

Posted by on November 26, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, Brotherhood Topics, Email Drill Questions, Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation, videos

Coordinated Ventilation – Part II by Nate DeMarse

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I stumbled upon a couple videos that drive home points made in the earlier Coordinated Ventilation post. These videos clearly show answers to previously asked questions, and bring up some new discussion tips as well. This is precisely how we should be training at drills and training burns. I don't know where this department is, but they are a class act in training!

Video #1 – The OV Position:

In the first video, we see an Outside Ventilation (OV) firefighter in the correct position to horizontally vent the building opposite the attack line's advance. Note that at the very beginning of the video, the Nozzle Team is advancing the hose line THROUGH THE FRONT DOOR and to the seat of the fire. The door is forced, and they are moving in when the windows are taken.

The firefighter is off to one side of the window, and takes the window located furthest from him first. This assures that he will be able to vent both windows without delay. If the window closest to the firefighter is vented first, and fire vents from the opening the second (furthest window) may have to be abandoned. This is especially true if operating on a portable ladder or fire escape. 

Video #2 – Points & Pointers:

I am not certain, but I think the video below is another angle of the same video above (a very rare occurance in our profession). If it is not the same fire, we are going to use it like it is for the purposes of driving home a point.

As I stated in the comments in Part I, "We should also wait if the line is delayed in getting into position, charged and READY TO MAKE THE PUSH on the fire. There is a vast difference in a line being there, a line being charged, and all of the members masked up and ready to push in." This video starts with a charged attack line, but the door hasn't been forced. If the OV takes the windows prematurely, this fire will continue to spread and grow as the line is not ready to advance. After entry is gained, you can hear the officer telling the OV to "take that glass".

Entering the Building Side-Note:  At the :35 second mark, you will see the camera move to the front stoop of the house. Note the visibility at the floor level! You can see nearly ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE HOUSE. Yet nearly every single firefighter that entered the building entered either standing or slight crouched with their head in the smoke, unable to see ANYTHING! I will reiterate at this point that I am not beating up on this department, THIS HAPPENS EVERYWHERE!!

Take a second after the door is forced to put your face piece directly on the floor and look UNDER the smoke. This requires you to get on your knees to accomplish. The nice thing about taking a look at the floor level is that you have to physically, consciously make a decision to stand-up to enter after you look.

Here are a few other benefits that stem from taking a few seconds to get low and take a look:

  • You allow the heat and super-heated gases that have built up in the sealed building a few seconds to "blow" and push over your head. This in turn will cause the smoke to lift off of the floor, and allow for the following:
    • You will be able to see a victim lying on the floor 10 feet or further inside the doorway, at that point you can say you conducted a rescue instead of tripping over someone and pretending that you rescued them! The Medal Ceremony will sound supurb, but you will know the truth!
    • You will be able to get a room, floor or apartment layout.
    • You will be able to see the glow of the fire on the floor, or the fire itself. You will know that it is on the right side of the hall, three doorways down.
    • You wlll see the large hole in the floor five feet inside the house and not fall into the basement and promptly call a "Mayday" within seconds of entering the building.

You will know all of this information at the front door, without walking (not searching) blindly. Then, because you are already on your knees conducting this vital size-up skill, you will enter the building safely on your knees, crawling towards your objective(s). When we couple the skills listed in this side-note with the OV performing those tasks in the correct position and the correct time, you will have the opportunity to gather vital information before entering.

THESE TASKS ALLOW US TO BE AGGRESSIVE AND SAFE! 
(and yes, those words can be used together)!

Forcible Entry Side-Note: The Forcible Entry team did a good job on the door. If you look closely, on the fourth swing the Striking FF nearly misses high with the axe. With hand placement so close to the axe-head, just a little more of a miss could have caused a crush injury. Believe it or not, in our travels this is the most common cause of injury in forcible entry (almost always resulting in at least one broken finger). To remedy that concern, This video (one of our first created nearly 2 years ago) shows safe striking techniques. Additionally, Brotherhood Instructors, LLC axes now have our company markings (colored electrical tape) 6"-7" below the head of the axe. Any firefighter using our axes know that if they place their top hand where the tape is, their hands are in the safe zone. Again, this is a very common injury and very rarely do we get a chance to catch forcible entry tools and members practicing their craft.

I think this fire department is doing a great job in getting their training done as we operate. Far too may training burns just walk members through the motions, leaving them with a false sense of security of what a real fire will be like (i.e: setting themselves up for failure). This department has their members on the radio, and conducting coordinated ventilation and fire attack. These videos left some open some great discussion points using realistic training and errors that occur on EVERY fireground!

Feel free to post comments, questions or concerns. We are all here to learn so let the learning commence!

Respectfully,
Nate DeMarse
Co-Owner, Brotherhood Instructors, LLC.

 

Posted by on November 2, 2011 • Filed under: Attack Line, Email Drill Questions, Engine Company Ops, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, Search, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation, videos

Power Saw Decompression Valves – By: Andrew Brassard

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There are a tremendous amount of myths and misconceptions that circle in the fire service about the decompression valve on rotary saws.  Some of these myths and misconceptions can lead to a lack of saw performance and or and inability to put the saw into action when it is needed most.

What is a Decompression Valve?

Basically, the way that a decompression valve works is that it is a small one way valve that is bored into the saws combustion chamber. When the starter cord is pulled the recoil turns causing the piston to raise causing compression to build inside the cylinder.  This compression can make the saw hard to start due to the resistance of the compression on the saws recoil. The valve allows a bit of the compression to escape, this in turn allows for the saw to start easier. The valve is semi-automatic meaning that it must be depressed by the saw operator before starting, after the saw fires the decompression valve automatically closes.

The Myths and Misconceptions

One of the biggest myths and misconceptions about the decompression valve is whether or not it needs to be depressed every time you pull the starter cord or not.  The answer is absolutely YES!  Now the reason for this is not necessarily to make it easier for the saw operator because lets be honest, if you can’t pull the cord without pushing in the decompression valve because it is too hard…. Than riding around on a fire truck is probably not for you!  There are two reasons that you want to ensure that the decompression valve has been depressed every time:

  1. The first reason is that starting the saw without the decompression valve engaged is tremendously hard on the saws starter recoil, this can lead to the starter cord breaking during start up or the cord starting to become loose and it will tend to hang out of the recoil.
  2. The second reason is that if the saw is constantly turned over it is generating tremendous amounts of compression inside the compression chamber, that compression is constantly pushed into the closed valve. What will start to happen is the valve will wear down and start to leak compression all the time. This leak in the compression can cause serious performance issues with your saw, if you find that your saw is bogging down a lot during roof or forcible entry operations then this could be an issue with the compression of your saw.

Another myth and misconception about decompression valves is that regular maintenance is not required.  The decompression valve just like any other part of the saw requires maintenance to run in tip top shape.  It tends to be a part of the regular service of the saws that is often overlooked, forgotten, or completely ignored. Much like a spark plug the end of the decompression valve is inside the combustion chamber of the engine.  Carbon, oil, and other unburned material tend to collect on the end of the valve.  This collection of unburned carbon can cause problems in the valve opening and closing or in the seal of the valve; this valve not closing properly can leave the pathway open for the compression to constantly leak.  Again a leak due to an improper seal or a malfunction in the valve will greatly effect the saws performance.

Maintenance

Maintenance on the decompression valve should be done annually or when ever the spark plug is being changed. The best practice for the cleaning of the valve is to first clean the dust and debris from the general area of the valve.  The reason for this is you don’t want any of dirt or debris getting into the cylinder. Once the area has been cleaned the valve can be removed with a wrench, and a clean rag can be placed into the hole to prevent any dust, dirt, or debris from getting into the cylinder.  After the valve has been removed it can be soaked in gasoline or WD-40 to remove the oils and unburned carbon. Once the valve has been cleaned in can be reinstalled.

During a fire ground operation, the decompression valve not being pressed won’t ruin your saw. It is extremely important to ensure that the valve is engaged during normal daily checks and training. This will build good habits that will no doubt carry over to the fire ground.

These are a couple of small tips that can make a ton of difference with your saws on the fire ground. Saws are a mechanical piece of equipment and they need to be cared for, inspected, and maintained if you want them to run in top form.

 

 

Posted by on May 9, 2011 • Filed under: Brotherhood Topics, Email Drill Questions, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, rescues, RIT or FAST Operations, Roof Ops, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Why the Framing Square Sucks – By: Chris Collier

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The framing square doesn’t actually suck; it’s a great tool if you are building a house.  When it comes to forcible entry, the framing square has no place on the fireground.  The fire service has enough trouble with the basics.  Further diluting the basics with “whiz-bang” tricks like the framing square only accelerates the erosion of what basic skills we have left and instills false hope in tactics that will not always work. 

We all know that there are very very few always and never situations in the fire service.  The framing square technique will work sometimes and the irons will work almost always.  I’m much more comfortable with almost always than sometimes.  The irons also afford us many forcible entry options, a second, third, and in many cases more choices should our first attempt be unsuccessful.  The framing square is a single function tool and that function is only useful sometimes making the likelihood of the framing square technique being successful relatively low. 

Forcing an outward opening door that is only locked by panic hardware is easily done with the irons.  Most panic hardware has a spring loaded latch that is between ¾” and 1” long.  That latch is easily pulled from its receiver when the adz of the Halligan is driven between the door and the door jam.  In many instances the door can be forced at that point in the forcible entry operation.  If the door does not release at that point the tool can be driven in to capture both layers of the door as we would do normally.    When prying on the door at this point the spring loaded latch will either pull out of its receiver or the screws holding the panic hardware to the door will be stripped out of the door.  Long story short, doors locked only with panic hardware are not hard to force and are the only doors the framing square will work on. 

Any additional locking devices other than the panic hardware will make the framing square technique useless.  Business owners know that panic hardware is not a substantial locking device and commonly add additional locks to these doors whether legal or not.  You will not know that this technique will not work on any given door until you try it and when it fails, you will have to switch to the irons.  I would prefer to delete this step that doesn’t always work and start with the irons.  You will be bringing the irons anyway, I hope.  Even if the framing square technique is successful you will still need tools to use after you gain entry. 

Planning to use the framing square requires you to bring two extra tools with you, the square and the saw.  Many times this technique is discussed and planned to be used on the back door of a store or in a strip mall type configuration.  Depending on your department and apparatus you arrive on a saw may or may not be available.  If there are roll down gates I would much rather leave that saw in the front of the building to cut the gates.  If there are no gates that saw would be much better used on the roof or removing window bars than being used to force panic hardware that can be easily done with the irons. 

I’m sure someone is thinking the framing square would be a great way to force a door equipped with an arm-a-door lock.  You are right; it will work great… if that’s the only lock on the door.  If someone is going to spend $800 on an arm-a-door I would bet they have some pretty valuable property to protect.  It would not surprise me at all if there were additional locks on a door like that.  Additionally, from the exterior arm-a-door locks have the same bolt pattern as many drop bars.  I would hate to waste time plunge cutting the door and trying the framing square only to find a wood or metal drop bar instead.  These locks are just as substantial as a drop bar and just as easily defeated. 

My preferred method is to place the pike of the Halligan next to the bolt head and drive the pike through the door with a few hits from the axe.  Once this is done next to all four bolt heads I will set the adz between the door and the jam just like any other outward opening door.  Piercing the door next to each bolt head leaves only a small tab of metal holding the bolt in place.  When the door is pried with the Halligan the small metal tab will tear and the bold head will pull through the door, eliminating the locking device the bolts attached.  This technique will work for both the drop bar and the arm-a-door. 

Some doors equipped with panic hardware are also equipped with a time delay release.  This requires the panic hardware to be pressed for a prescribed amount of time before the door will be open.  Doors that have this feature usually also sound an alarm when the panic hardware is depressed.  This is allowed under fire and building codes in certain situations.  It is often allowed in facilities such as daycare centers and mercantile occupancies.  In a daycare setting this feature allows the employees a short period of time to react before a person (adult or child) who is unable to care for themselves due to age, or physical or mental disability can leave unsupervised.  In mercantile occupancies this feature allows security a short period of time to keep thieves from taking something and ducking out a side or rear door unnoticed.  The time between pressing the panic hardware and the door opening is regulated by local code and can be a minute or more in some instances.  This feature will also negate the effectiveness of the framing square by forcing the firefighter with the square to wait and see if the door opens before moving on to conventional forcible entry tactics. 

These are just a few of the reasons why I do not like the framing square.  In short, this technique is extremely prone to failure and requires extra tools.  I like to stick with what I know will work so when I am confronted with a tough door it will not be my first time forcing a door as it may be if you forced every door previously with the framing square.

Please feel free to comment with your questions or suggestions.  Comments must be signed with your first and last name or department name.  Unsigned comments will not be posted in an effort to prevent useless bashing and keep the discussion focused on learning.

Posted by on May 2, 2011 • Filed under: Brotherhood Topics, Email Drill Questions, fire-prevention-education, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, RIT or FAST Operations, Search, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged:

Video: Forcible Entry: Through the Lock Failure

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Through the lock forcible entry tactics are a quick and professional method of forcing entry when employed by properly trained and equipped firefighters.  However, circumstances beyond our control can sometimes cause through the lock techniques to fail.  How we react to and overcome these failures is what separates the amateurs from the professionals.  Please feel free to post your comments and questions.

“If you are prepared, you will be confident, and will do the job.” - Unknown

Like what you see?  Come visit us at our “Beyond the Academy: Forcible Entry Operations” course in Lockport, Illinois on March 11, 2011.  Click here for registration information: https://brotherhoodinstructors.dc1.netfirms.com/brotherhoodinstructors.com/ClassFlyers/2011-03-13%20-%20Lockport,%20IL%20-%20Forcible%20Entry%20and%20Building%20Construction%20Courses.pdf

Posted by on January 25, 2011 • Filed under: Brotherhood Topics, Email Drill Questions, Engine Company Ops, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, special-operations, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Uncategorized, videos • Tagged:

American Series 2500 Locks – By Chris Collier

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The American Series 2500 padlock is the newest addition to the “hockey puck” line of locks.  The Series 2500 locks are very different than the Series 2000, and will sometimes require a different forcible entry method. The Series 2000 and Series 2500 lock via a pin sliding through a channel within the circular lock body.  The major difference between the lock styles is the way that the pin is locked in place.

The Series 2000 lock uses a flared end of the pin.  When the pin is pushed into the receiver and turned 90˚, the pin locks in place, thus locking the lock.  The flared end piece is the sole component holding this lock “locked”, and is the reason why we cut the lock three-quarters opposite the pin/keyway, which will cause the lock to release.

The Series 2500 lock utilizes a similar locking pin, however the pin is locked in place via a spring loaded metal slide.  The keyway is located on the face of the Series 2500 lock (as opposed to being attached to the end of the locking pin on the Series 2000).  The Series 2500 has a pivoting arm attached to the back of the keyway which rotates when the key is turned causing the spring loaded metal slide to release the locking pin.  Cutting this lock three-quarters opposite the locking pin will not cause the pin to release.

Cutting the Series 2500 three-quarters opposite the locking pin will remove the lock from its attachment UNLESS it is protected by a circular-type guard.  The circular-type guard will keep the lock in place since the pin is not released by the cut.  Since the lock body cannot be maneuvered out of the guard due to it being tight around the lock, the lock will not be defeated.

The ability to identify these locks, and how they are mounted, will directly impact how we go about forcing them.  Here are our recommended methods for forcing the American Series 2500 lock in priority order:

1. If the lock is NOT protected by a circular guard – cut three-quarters opposite the LOCKING PIN, as in an American Series 2000.

2. If the lock IS protected by a circular guard:

a. Locking a roll down gate: Cut the rail above and below the lock and bend the rail out using the forks of the Halligan.

b. Locking a swinging gate or door (contractor van): Cut the bolt-heads or attachment points.

3. If locking a roll down gate, and access cannot be gained (confined area) to cut the rail: Cut the gate itself.

Lock manufacturers have always developed new versions of locks to stay one step ahead of the criminals that try to defeat them.  As firefighters, we must also evolve our forcible entry tactics and procedures to remain current with the lock technology as it evolves.  Take a look around your area and if you find something new, figure it out before the fire.  It may be the difference between losing a store or two, or an entire block!

Posted by on November 17, 2010 • Filed under: Email Drill Questions, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, Forcible Entry, Ladder Company Ops, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics • Tagged:

Question #2010-01: Roof Teams & SCBA Use

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Brothers & Sisters,

A brother posted on our Facebook wall the following question for a research paper.  Please respond with your answers.  There is an answer from one of our Brotherhood Instructors, LLC guys (an FDNY member) below.  I don’t think that they answer has to be as elaborate as the one below, but any information will help.  Please jump in and help him out.  He will collect the answers via this blog.

Please realize that this is NOT a CRITIQUE on how things SHOULD be done, so refrain from adding commentary to the responses about
how YOU think THEY should operate.  There are no right or wrong answers here!

The question is as follows:

Which municipalities have their Roof Firefighter(s) wear their SCBA to and/or while operating on the roof?

One answer from one of the Brotherhood Instructors, LLC./FDNY firefighters is here:

Jeff, I know in NYC we are required to wear our packs to the roof, and I agree with the procedure, and here is why:

We do not cut peaked roofs as an initial operation (meaning no one from the first two truck companies go to the roof as a com…mon practice). At peaked-roof private dwelling fires, our Roof FF will team up with the OV, and VES the bedrooms opposite the fire. I would say that 99% of the peaked-roof private dwelling fires are extinguished without opening the roof.

For flat-roof operations, we are required to wear them because after completing our primary roof duties (one of which include sweeping the heavily charged stairway bulkhead for victims), we are required to team up with the 2nd due Roof FF and drop down the fire escape to VES each apartment above the fire floor from the top down.

I have also had to mask-up at several top floor and cockloft jobs where we were working close to the hole, cutting and extending the primary roof cut. All of the guys at those jobs that decided to drop their masks, were driven away from the hole and either unwilling or unable to assist.

Hope that helps, anyone else with any thoughts? We have firefighters from all over the world here, jump in!

If you have any operational or tactical questions, feel free to contact us to be posted on our wall.  With over 6,200 Facebook users and already 3,000 hits on this blog, we can get some answers for you!

Stay Safe!

Posted by on November 14, 2010 • Filed under: Email Drill Questions, fire-rescue-topics, firefighter-safety-health, firefighting-operations, fires, Ladder Company Ops, Ladders, Roof Ops, training-development, training-fire-rescue-topics, Ventilation • Tagged: