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Restricted Space Forcible Entry

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Short Handled Maul

Limited Visibility Forcible Entry

Wide Adz Forcible Entry

Above are a few articles relating to forcible entry in limited visibility and tight spaces.  These techniques can be helpful in situations like the door pictured above. 

  • What is your method of choice for forcing a door with a space restriction like this? 
  • Have you ever tried the short handled maul? 
  • Do you have the shoulders of the fork of your halligan "squared off"?
  • Are you allowed to add the wide adz to your halligan?
  • Do you carry a hydraulic forcible entry tool?

Jump in on the discussion and tell us how you do it!  Post your department name and location too, its always interesting to see different tools and techniques from various areas.  Whatever you do, just remember:  friends don't let friends force doors with a framing square!

Building Construction Features – Cornices, By: Andrew Brassard

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I am sure if you talk to most fire service professionals about an area of basic knowledge that is lacking in today’s fire service it won’t take long to hear the topic of building construction surface.  Knowledge of building construction and how a fire reacts in that building is an area that is extremely under taught and misunderstood by today’s fire service.  It amazes me that we teach safety officers to spot a gloveless hand at 100 yards but we spend very little time talking about the hazards of balloon frame buildings, knee walls, fire spread issues, ordinary construction, etc.  With the changes in building construction nowadays and more and more emphasis of our training time on everything not fire related (ie. EMS, underwater HAZMAT, etc.) we need to teach building construction even more today than we ever have had to in previous years.

A cornice in architectural terms that describes a horizontal decorative molding that usually is found at the tops of doorways or building, for the purposes of the article we are going to look at them on the tops of flat roof buildings.

In the 19th and early 20th century, cornices were a very common place and most buildings were not complete without decorative cornice work adorning the top of the structure.  The functionality of the cornice was simple, to deflect and cause rain water to run off of the building and keep the water from running down the side of the brick work.  The intent was to save the brick work from the wear and tear of mother nature, essentially these decorative moldings were flat roofed buildings example of gutters or eves troughs.

Cornices came to favor in the 19th and 20th century but are in fact much older that that and have there roots all the way back to Roman times. Cornices as we know them in North America come in many different styles but the two most common types are wood and brick.  It is important to note the building construction material used in these cornices before it is too late; brick cornices will hold up much better than there wood counterparts to weather and fire deterioration.  Wood cornices are the more dangerous of the two types of cornices and for the purpose of this article we will talk about the hazards associated with only wood cornices.  Wooden cornices are generally not attached very well to the buildings facade, typically they have been nailed in when the building was first built and very little maintenance or thought goes into them until there is a problem.  Wooden cornices have been known to fall off buildings under snow loads and because of natural breakdown and deterioration of the wood and nails holding the cornice to the building.  When cornices start to become problematic for firefighters is during roof operations and if fire showing from windows starts to involve the cornices.

Roof Operations

When engaged in flat roof operations at one of these older style taxpayers or any other type of older building with a flat roof it is imperative that you take a quick second see if wooden cornices are present.  The reason for this is that in some cases the cornices are not on a parapet and are in fact flush with the roof.  In many they cases are completely tarred over, this will prevent you from knowing whether  you are standing on a solid roof or only standing on the cornice.  If you are accessing the roof via aerial ladder, it is vital that if you have to step off the aerial onto the cornice to aggressively sound the cornice area with a roof or rubbish hook before stepping on it.  Several firefighters have been injured and killed by cornices failing without ever being subjected to fire… they simply gave way under the load of the firefighter operating on them.

Fire Impingement onto Cornices

In building fires where the fire has vented out windows and the fire has started to impinge on the cornice an early and catastrophic collapse of sections of the cornice should be expected.  Also the wooden construction of the cornice can cause the fire to extend along the face of the building.  When dealing with a fire involving sections of cornices a collapse zone should be set up and respected.  During over haul the stability of the cornice should be checked, roof firefighters could attempt to remove it through traditional overhaul means or a from a tower ladder.  Also a stream from smoothbore nozzle could be used to attempt to knock the loose section of cornice off.  You want to try to control when the cornice will fail and not have it happen unexpectedly.

This is just one small building construction feature that firefighters often overlook the hazards of.  Francis L. Brannigan’s famous saying “know your enemy, the building is your enemy” holds even more true today, be sure to practice, train, study, (and most importantly) get out in your area and study building construction features common in the buildings in your district.

Cornice Collapse Video – Fast forward to the 6:25 min mark.

 

Awesome Grab in Indianapolis! & Bunk-Cribs

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Congratulations to the Indianapolis Fire Dept. on the successful rescue of 2 children from a middle of the night house fire!  The newspaper story states that the children's mother was woken up by the flames but was unable to get her children out of the house.  IFD arrived and commenced an aggressive search and located both children.  The children were found in a crib and under a bed.  This story illustrates the importance of a rapid, systematic, thorough search.  Here are some previous Brotherhood Instructors blogs about searching:

Entering a Window for VES

Searching Beds

News story mentioned above

 

 

 

 

 

The "Searching Beds" blog is a fairly comprehensive guide to searching beds and bunk beds but we have yet to write about searching cribs.  There are literally thousands of makes and models of cribs on the market.  Hard and fast rules as to how to identify cribs are seldom useful so here are a few guidelines:

  • Narrow vertical slatts that are close together
  • High mattress
  • Baby stuff: changing table, baby swing, toys

 

 

 

 

During our "Aggressive Search in Private Dwellings" lecture in Lockport, IL back in March the topic of bunk-cribs came up.  Eddie Crombie from Hooks & Irons brought this up and it was the first time anyone else in the room had ever heard of such a thing.  Just like bunk-beds, bunk-cribs stack one crib on top of another.  It has been common practice to reach up after searching a bed to check for a bunk-bed and now the same must be done when searching cribs. 

Again congratulations to FF Mike Hamilton and Capt Steve Sterrett for the successful rescue of these two little girls.  Please pass these search blogs along to your fire service collegues and feel free to jump in with any questions, comments, or suggestions.  As always, comments must be signed with your first and last name or department name in order to prevent unnecessary bashing and promote constructive discussion and learning. 

Video: Key-in-the-Knob – Through the Lock

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Our latest addition to our "Video Training Series" covers through the lock techniques for Key-in-the-Knob locks. 

For additional information see our previous blog: Through the Lock Forcible Entry: Key-in-the-Knob Locks

Through the Lock – The Sunilla Tool

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The Sunilla tool is one of the oldest through the lock tools.  Like many fire service tools, this tool was invented by modifying another tool.  Capt Sunilla of the FDNY ground out the groove in the end of a standard lock puller to allow it to pull rim lock cylinders. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rim lock cylinders are only held in place by two screws and a small metal plate.   Older rim lock cylinders had a small bridge on the top that the modified nail puller would capture to pull the cylinder.  This tool was easily and quickly adopted by criminals which caused lock companies to change their cylinders. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To combat the Sunilla tool, lock manufacturers started making the face of the lock of very soft metal so the face would break away when trying to pull the cylinder.  Also, some lock manufacturers began making the cylinder round to prevent the Sunilla tool from biting onto the cylinder.  Round lock cylinders were the reason for the invention of the K tool. 

This tool has been made obsolete by modern lock cylinders but was cutting edge in its day.  We can thank Capt Sunilla for modern through the lock tools as they have all evolved from his firehouse ingenuity. 

Replacement Doors

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Replacement or insert doors can pose a challenge when forcing entry.  These doors come with a thin frame around them that is inserted into the existing door jam.  This alleviates the need to replace the entire door jam and is much quicker.  When forcing entry on these doors it is imperative that the tool be set between the door and the replacement frame (red arrow), not in the seem between the replacement frame and the door jam (white arrow). 

When gapping the door with the adz of the halligan be sure to place the tool to the door about 8 inches from the door jam and slide the tool along the door to the jam.  This will ensure that the tool is flat against the door and help ensure it is in the correct position.  If you learn to do this when conditions are good it will become habit and happen naturally when forcing doors in a limited vision environment.  The same procedure can be done with the fork end of the halligan after the door has been gapped. 

More on the Wide Adz

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Over the last few months Brotherhood Instructors Co-Owner Kevin Legacy has been working with the Aazel Corporation on making a wide adz halligan.  We have discussed the benefits of the wide adz and how to make this modification to a standard halligan previously.  The Aazel Corporation is now making a halligan with a one piece molded wide adz rather than the present firehouse modification. 

These pictures show how the wide adz can be used to force an inward swinging door without setting the forks.  The wide adz allows the door to be pried further during the "gap" phase of the forcible entry operation.  Once the door is gapped enough that the front edge of the door clears the back edge of the jam, the axe or a wood chock can be used to maintain the purchase.  Then, the adz can be re-set behind the jam to complete forcing the door.

This technique is excellent for forcing a door with only one firefighter or in a limited visibility environment.  For more information about this new wide adz halligan visit:  Aazel Wide Adz Halligan

Keep in mind that the door may release at any time during the forcible entry operation and always be prepared to control the door.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foot Bolts

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Foot bolts are substantial locking devices that can, like many others, be overcome easily with the proper tooks and knowledge.  Foot bolts are slide bolts that are installed along the bottom rail of the door and lock into the floor.  These locking devices can usualy be identified from the outside by the bolt pattern just like a slide bolt that locks into the door jamb.  To determine if the foot bolt is engaged or not, take a key tool or shove knife and slide it under the door.  If the tool hits the bolt, the lock is engaged.  This will prevent wasting time on a locking device that is not engaged. 

 

 

 

 

There are several ways to force these locking devices.  One of the quickest is using the power saw to cut the bolt.  This will be difficult if not impossible unless you have a power saw set up with an outboard blade.  As seen in the picture, the outboard blade allows the saw operator to slide the blade under the door to cut the bolt. 

If you don't know how to change your saw to the outboard position check this video out.  This two minute real time video demonstrates how to perform this modification to your power saw. 

 

 

 

Video – Power Saw: Outboard Blade Conversion

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Having a power saw with an outboard blade is useful in various forcible entry situations.  This 2 min video will demonstrate how to convert your saw to the outboard position.  Feel free to jump in with your questions, comments, and suggestions. 

As always, comments must be signed with your name or department to promote constructive discussion and discourage unnecessary bantar. 

Troubleshooting a Flooded Saw – By: Kevin Legacy

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In some departments a quick on-scene replacement for a flooded power saw is simply a radio transmission away. Unfortunately for most, this is not the case. Everyone who operates one of these saws should know how to correct this common problem on scene.

When too much fuel and not enough air enter the combustion chamber a machine can flood. The spark plug gets coated with raw fuel and may not ignite. On a properly maintained machine, this can happen if you leave the choke on for too long or if the throttle lock is not engaged while attempting to start.  Flooding will not be caused by storing your saw on the rig with the throttle locked and the choke in the on position!  Of course there is the ever popular “I left the on/off switch in the off position while trying to start the machine”. Whoops!!!!.  If one of these errors occurs, and we catch the mistake in time, you can attempt the following to get the machine running.

Make sure the on/off switch is on. Turn the choke off. Push the decompression valve in. While holding the throttle control in the “full throttle” position, begin to crank the engine over. If the machine starts, hold the throttle control “full throttle” until the machine is running smooth and the excessive exhaust smoke clears up. This is easier with 2 firefighters.  

If the machine doesn’t start with the above method, replace the spark plug with the one you should be carrying in your saw kit. This can be done with the combination wrench that your machine comes with. The spark plug, in most cases, is easily accessible so it can be changed fairly quickly. Once changed, attempt to start the machine with the above procedure. If you are trained to use the machine you should know how to change the spark plug.  

Here is a video clip on how to change a spark plug on a Husqvarna 960.   

Sprinklered Basement Fire – By: Kevin Legacy

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I recently responded to a fire as a later arriving company. As we entered the block, the first due companies reported that most of the visible fire had been knocked down by a sprinkler.  Units were mopping up with the line, and reported no extension.  Since we arrived late in the game, we were thinking that there was probably “nothing for us to do here, lets take up”.  The fire was in the basement (laundry room) of a 3 story attached multiple dwelling.  The next report from units in the basement included, “searches will be delayed due to poor visibility”.  The basement laundry room had only one way in and out, via the interior stairs. There were no windows.  Even though the fire was relatively minor, the smoke, steam, and heat were not lifting due to the poor ventilation.  When the IC learned of the conditions, he reminded all members to remain on air until they exited the structure due to high carbon monoxide levels.  When companies reported via radio that the primary search in the basement was negative the IC heard a low air alarm going off in the background.  At this time the IC ordered the first due units out of the structure, and provided a relief unit to replace them to finish up.  The fire concluded without incident.

Even though the above fire was a very small and controlled by the sprinkler system, CO levels remained very high until proper mechanical ventilation was used.

Later arriving units, especially RIT/FAST units, should be prepared for the following:

  • Members going down from removing their face piece too soon due to extremely high CO levels present.
  • Exhausted members: due to the continuing high heat levels from lack of ventilation.
  • Limited access to members operating in the basement.(one way in /out of the basement). Keep the stairs clear.
  • Once the charged hose line is in place and the fire is controlled shut down the sprinkler. The operating sprinkler head will hamper the ventilation process.